visit to the Baltistan region can be a perfect escape from the summer heat in Pakistan’s plains. The introduction of direct flights from several cities in Pakistan, upgrading of the roads and introduction of cellular phone services certainly made everything easier for those visiting the region. A visit to the inviting plains of Deosai, the Sheosar and Satpara Lake, the crystal waterfalls of the region, the stunning scenery, Shangrilla and the two Kachura Lakes can dominate a week-long itinerary. However, Shigar and its majestic historical fort cannot be ignored easily.

Shigar was hardly an hour or so (40 to 50 kilometres) away from the hotel in Skardu we were staying at. However, we made several stops along the way to capture the amazing scenery on all sides. As a result, we finally reached the Shigar Fort at around lunchtime. There were already a number of tourists, trekkers’ groups and families at the Fort when we reached there. We began by having a sumptuous pre-booked lunch including some of the most loved local delicacies on the filling buffet menu under the cool shades of intertwined grapevines on the trellis above our heads and the terrace that overlooked a babbling stream of crystal water.

A local guide, then, took us through the museum housed in the historical 400 years old Shigar Fort and the palace of the then raja of Shigar hailing from the 17^th Century. The Shigar Fort is also known as Fong-Khar (literal meaning Fort/ Palace on the Rock). Originally built by a raja of the Amacha Dynasty, more than four centuries back, it was destroyed by the Mughals during their battles. Part of the Fort, Fong-Khar was restored to what the current fort is after Amacha submitted to Mughals. More recently, the majestic Fort was restored around two decades back by the Aga Khan Cultural Service and partly converted into a Museum. It was then handed over to a luxury hotel chain. The captivating structures were built (and later restored) mostly using stone, brick and wood.

Generally, the employees at the hotel are well-versed in the historical background of the fort and the artefacts in the museum. There are many utensils, ornaments, significant letters, sports goods, relics, wardrobes and items of daily use on display at the museum, preserved in their original setting for history buffs and awestruck travellers visiting the place. Usually, a local guide, who is an expert on the history of the palace and the traditions of the dynasties from centuries back, takes along a group of a dozen or so tourists on a quick yet comprehensive tour. We began in a big room with numbered and named artefacts on display and the guide explained the significance of each and every item. After a few halls, we entered the Tzhuntzae Hasirikhang or the Small Kitchen housing centuries-old pots, stoves, utensils and items that were originally used for culinary preparation.

The majestic Shigar Fort was restored around two decades back by the Aga Khan Cultural Service. It has been partly converted into a Museum.

The lush orchards and the attractive garden, amicably maintained by the hotel, had many fruit-laden trees and vines of local fruits. From apples, peaches, plums, grapes and mulberry to some of the most exotic fruits like stone apple (locally known as bael) and nuts including figs and walnuts; the babbling fountain-cum-river to the aesthetically decorated colourful flowers; Shigar has all the natural beauty one can ask for to see and relax with. The most striking feature was a 400-year old maple tree (which according to the guide belonged to the Chinar variety) located between the entrance and the majestic, marble based baradari pavilion. The tree, which was planted by the raja himself, has a massive circumference. It also has a huge hole on one side of its bark. I counted four of my baffled fellow tourists easily getting inside that hole, into the tree trunk simultaneously.

The signature architecture and woodwork designs are also present in the nearby mosque, Khanqah. The mosque structure has grandeur and a unique aura. Even more stunning and historically significant, the Amburiq Mosque, originally built in the 14^th Century, was also restored by the Aga Khan Cultural Service. A UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Heritage Conservation was conferred to this mosque in 2005. In the vicinity of the Shigar Fort lies yet another architectural masterpiece, the Khilingrong mosque which, after restoration, was awarded the UNESCO Asia-Pacific Award for Heritage Conservation in 2012.

On our way back, we stopped at the Katpana Cold Deserts for a couple of hours. The Katpana or Sarfranga Cold Desert is believed to be the highest cold desert in the world. Except for the road which leads to Shigar, everything else is white to beige. Many tourists enjoy powered paragliding, paragliding, camel-riding, dune buggy riding or strolling in the arid sand.

Maple, apricot, cherry, fig, apple and mulberry trees as well as grape vines surround the Shigar Fort. You may find people selling local fruits and herbs separately, dried or turned into jams. I have covered the entire Skardu-Baltistan trip, with special emphasis on the flora, plantation and harvests of this region, in a playlist for my family’s YouTube channel, DocTree Gardening as well. Readers can watch Part-6 of this playlist Gardening & Travels which is dedicated entirely to our visit to the Katpana Cold Desert and the scintillating Shigar.

The writer is a   physician, healthcare leader, traveller and a YouTube host for the DocTree Team promoting Organic Gardening in Pakistan. He tweets @Ali_Shahid82