fter the success of Gowalmandi, Lahore, as Pakistan’s first official food street, the district administration of Islamabad attempted to replicate it in the federal capital. In the city of flowers and lights, bordered by green hills, a traditional and cultural food market was set up in 2002 to cater to food lovers and foreigners from the twin cities.

Constructed in Sector G6 Markaz, it was called Melody Food Park. It was expected to become a symbol of old Islamabad, as the historical Melody Market was designed by renowned English architect, Faster, and constructed in 1965. Melody Food Park was inaugurated by a former interior minister, Lt Gen Moin ud Din Haider (retired).

Framed by lush trees and plants, Melody Food Park attempted to bring various cuisines at the same place. Its 27 food stalls served everything from barbecue to seafood. A traditional paan shop with an a la carte menu was also set up to cater to more traditional visitors.

According to the Capital Development Authority (CDA), the government had invited Mr Faster to design the heart of Islamabad’s downtown. The centre of the food park was a dedicated space for musicians.

Nizam, 65, a stall vendor, recalls the park’s bustling past, “The evening began with soulful melodies played by rubab and tabla musicians who serenaded the visitors.” During its initial years, Melody Food Park was a melting pot of diversity, with visitors from all over Pakistan, as well as foreigners, enjoying food and music. Pretty soon, the food park became the only market in the federal capital where locals, visitors and diplomats were spotted visiting on weekends.

“This was the time when people preferred to come along with their families to enjoy traditional breakfast food like chanay, paye, nihari with roghni naan,” says Nizam.

In the beginning, famed eateries from other cities also set up their stalls in the food park. Phajja Paye was renowned for its breakfast in Lahore, and Al Haaj Bundo Khan Kebab from Karachi specialised in barbecue. Shikarpuri achar (pickles) and Javed Nihari were also popular vendors.

However, these famous vendors gradually sold their business and returned to their cities of origin.

“Back in the day, this food park was truly a sight to behold. I have spent several national holidays here, and we used to visit twice a week with the family. We used to enjoy the food and the music. The charm of music is no more and most of the traditional vendors have left. The few that remain sell substandard food and we have stopped visiting,” says Amir Ali, a resident of the city.

“I experienced Gowalmandi when I took charge in 2006. I attempted to revive the food park. It is disastrous that it has been over a decade since restoration was last attempted. Such projects need constant maintenance and management. [But] every chairman comes in with their own agenda and begins new projects while neglecting earlier initiatives.”

When the food park was launched, the surrounding buildings were renovated, colourful lights stringing along the trees and traditional furniture were added attractions. Trained security guards were tasked with protecting the visitors.

According to information from the Directorate of Municipal Authority (DMA), the food park has awaited renovation for several years. The shopkeepers are paying outstanding rent in instalments. The last renovation was done in 2006. The total number of shops is 32. There are a few vacancies. According to Ali, a DMA official, “The food park is maintained by shopkeepers. Initially, a maintenance committee constituted by the shopkeepers and chaired by the DMA director was established, but it has been dissolved. Former PTI MNA, Zille Huma, initiated a renovation project but it soon came to a halt.”

According to Rana Khalid, a shopkeeper, the soaring rent and restrictions by the district government have made it difficult for shopkeepers to operate. “In the beginning, the authorities charged reasonable rent. However, in recent years our kitchens and some stalls have been demolished,” he says.

A large operation by the CDA tackled encroachments on the park and demolished illegal structures. According to former deputy mayor of Islamabad, Syed Zeeshan Naqvi, “We were keen to fix the problems faced by stallholders and facilitate renovation. We led an operation against illegal occupants and encroachers.” Regarding the current situation, he says, “Things began to deteriorate when civic authorities allowed overcrowding, with little regard for the family friendly atmosphere. Over time, they also failed to facilitate vendors and the food park fell into disarray.”

With the passage of time, Melody Food Park not only lost its charm, but the visitors as well. Due to a lack of maintenance, degrading food quality and improper sanitation, it is seldom visited. Stray cats and dogs are its only regular visitors, cowering under tables to protect themselves from loose, live wires.

“I experienced Gowalmandi when I took charge in 2006. I tried to revive the food park. It is disastrous that it has been over a decade since restoration was last attempted. Such projects need constant maintenance and management. [But] every chairman comes in with their own agenda and begins new projects while neglecting earlier initiatives. This is only one of several projects rotting away in Islamabad,” says Kamran Lashari, a former chairman of the Capital Development Authority.

Half the shops and stalls at the moment are vacant. A number of traditional displays have been closed. Some local food brands have maintained their presence but with lower quality food. The last surviving icon of the old food park is the Delhi Paan Shop. The park itself is lost for melodies heard no more.

The writer is a freelance mid-career journalist and documentary producer. He can be reached at jranasahmed18@yahoo.com