Hyderabad, also known as Neroon Kot of Mirs has a diverse history. The architectural monuments in Hyderabad have stood the test of time and witnessed the rise and fall of many emperors.

On a visit to old markets like the Shahi Bazaar and Faqeer Ka Pir, an expansive red wall catches the eye. Beginning close to the railway station, the wall surrounds a part of the city centre including Naya Pul, Qadam Gah, Nau-Gaz Qabar and the shrine of Sakhi Wahab Shah.

The story of Hyderabad’s red wall is a fascinating tale. The wall is a part of the Pucca Qila, a fort constructed upon a hillock. A brain-child of Mian Ghulam Shah Kalhoro, its construction is traced back to the 17th Century.

The Kalhoro tribe had migrated to Neroon Kot from Khudabad. They decided to settle in a new capital. Its purpose was to provide a place to the ruler from where he may watch the city. The main gate was constructed upon the hilltop.

The Pucca Qila not only holds the history of the Kalhoros but has also been a witness to the country’s national leaders and politics. Inside the fortress, Qilla grounds are a place of political significance. Public events are held here to this day.

It is the place where Nawabzada Nasrullah Khan, Abdul Wali Khan, Chaudry Shujaat Hussain, Sherbaz Khan Mazari and Altaf Hussain have addressed political gatherings.

The entrance to Pucca Qila and its gate has deteriorated. The main gate collapsed in September 2021 during construction work. Shops along the fort wall are major attractions for visitors and locals alike. However, the first to welcome visitors are standing sewage water and heaps of trash. Noise pollution is also a major issue. Crumbling walls and cement concrete structures frame the first look at the fort. There is a short concrete road but the rest of the way is covered in mud.

“I was born here at Pucca Qila. I am in my 30s. When I was a child, the walls and the gate were still in a comparatively good condition. Sadly most of the things have been ruined. The management office is occasionally open, but little has been done to restore the fort,” says Haseen Khan, a resident.

Chewing a paan, Haseeb continues, “movement in the neighbourhood becomes impossible when it rains. Drainage is poor. Sewerage disposal has become a major issue.”

The fort houses thousands of people battling awful living conditions. Most of the residents rely on income from trading at the shops and general stores.

Right after Partition, Pucca Qila was turned into a refugee camp. It housed families migrating from India. For the past 73 years, hundreds of families have continued living here. Open kitchens and toilets have been constructed along the walls of the fort, causing cracks and structural damage.

Wasi Mazhar Nadvi, a former mayor, was the first administrator of the fort. He formally leased the fort land for residential purposes. The lease agreement carried certain conditions including maintaining a distance of 16 feet between the wall and the houses under construction.

The entrance to Pucca Qila and its gate are deteriorating. The main gate collapsed in September 2021 during construction work. Shops along the fort are major attractions for visitors and locals alike. However, the first to welcome visitors are standing sewage water and trash

Rashid Khilji, a member of the provincial assembly hailing from Pucca Qila, tells The News on Sunday that he is trying to get an alternative residence for those living around the fort to begin its restoration.

“The walls, Mir Harem, and the main entrance are in dire need of renovation. Minister for Culture Sardar Shah paid a visit to the monument at my request but the implementation of government decisions for conservation is moving at a snail’s pace,” says Khilji.

“The renovation work that began last year was stopped after the collapse of the main gate, for which the department concerned blamed the contractor and lodged an FIR against him,” he says.

Nasir Sheikh, a former president of Hyderabad Press Club, resides near Pucca Qila. He says the walls of the fort stay damp throughout the year. He says this is undermining its structural integrity. According to Sheikh, “Illegal encroachment have a major role in the destruction of this historic fort that is home now to thousands of people. Drains carrying the household waste are damaging the foundations of the fort. Earlier, a number of shops and houses had collapsed at Guru’s Naka, with several deaths and injuries to many.”

Muhammad Anees, a resident of Pucca Qila, says, “Heavy monsoon showers badly damaged the left side wall of the fort causing destruction of several houses as well. Following that the authorities concerned imposed a ban on rebuilding of those houses. The residents were moved to other places.”

“The memory of that disaster keeps residents alert when the monsoons arrive. My family has moved away from our rooms adjacent to the wall of the fort. We are now using that space as a veranda,” says Anees, adding that while a small portion of the wall was rebuilt, the rest was left unattended.

In 2005, the federal government announced a scheme to move the residents outside the fort, but little progress has been made on that front. The Sindh Balochistan Museum, which was once an integral part of the Pucca Qila, has ceased to exist.

In 2003, the district government had initiated a plan to renovate the grounds and the park inside the fort. The graves of Nawab Muzzafar, the founder of Muhajir Punjabi Pakhtoon Muhaz and the martyrs of the Muttahida Qaumi Movemnt are still in the park. The renovation work started on historical Mir Harem inside the fort and the walls began in 2015 but is still incomplete.

The Sindh Balochistan Museum was a centre of attraction for locals and visitors alike. It showcased soldiers’ outfits and historical items from the Mughal era. The museum had great cultural significance. Following ethnic clashes in the late ’80s, the museum was looted and the management demolished the building without any attempt at restoration.

The ground floor of the fort now serves blacksmiths and steel workers. With hundreds of cemented shops selling iron and steel products, this vicinity is considered a steel and iron hub. The Municipal Corporation has demolished these shops a number of times but they keep popping back up.

“We have been here for decades. These shops belonged to my forefathers and are my only livelihood. We know that the damaged walls are hazardous, but we have nowhere else to work. We use iron shades to protect ourselves from falling debris and use cement mortar to patch up leaks when it rains,” says Imran, a local shop owner.

Sabir Qaimkhani, the National Assembly member from Hyderabad City states, “The fort is a significant cultural monument. The wall is still fascinating. It is an important part of our heritage. Unfortunately, the fort is no longer frequented by locals or visitors due to structural issues. If it is not preserved in accordance with international best practices, the condition of the fort will deteriorate be beyond salvage.”