The Urdu word kekra is usually used for crab, a water creature, but in Thar and Parker it means the ‘Camel of Thar’ and King of the Desert. Despite operating in an area with a Hindu majority, these trucks mostly carry Islamic symbols and calligraphy. Kekras are World War II (WWII) American trucks that were auctioned in the 1970s and are being used here to this day.

Their rickety structure aside, these are the best kind of ride for deserts and sandy routes. As the road network in Thar has improved considerably, kekras are no longer as frequent a sight in these areas as they once were. But during the months of February and October one can spot large groups of pilgrims from all over Thar, travelling to the site of Sardharo Dham, some of them aboard these trucks. The pilgrims pay their respects to Lord Shiva, one of the three main deities in Hinduism, whose seat is at the tirath. Adi Shakti, Bholay Nath, Shiv Shankar Mahadeva, Maheshwar and Gangadhar are some of the names for Shiva who is also remembered by thousands of other names. The main temple in Sardharo Dham is dedicated to Shiva.

The maharaj of the temple is one Chuni Lal, not a common name among Hindus living in Sardharo, a town located around 10 kilometres away from Nangarparker city. There are two Chuni Lals serving the pilgrims and travellers at Sardharo Dham. Chuni Lal, the maharaj of the temple, is known for his syncretic views. He welcomes all those interested in the theological aspects of Hinduism. The second Chuni Lal sells bottled water and soft drinks. Blessed with a magical smile, this one makes life easier in the scorching Saavn heat of Thar.

Sardharo Dham or Sardharo Shiva Temple is a complex comprising four Hindu temples, a samadhi and a pond. According to Hindu religious texts, Shiva once stayed at the site and a tributary of River Ganga once fell in the pond.

Shiva, also known as Ardhanarishvara is the Hindu god of duality, i.e. half male and half female. Shivaism is a sect established around the worship of Shiva. The two sexual identities of Shiva cannot survive without each other and are reconciled by Shiva. The image of Shiva which is the union of linga and yoni is the symbol of the union of masculinity with femininity. Shiva is deeply revered among Hindu transgender persons. However, the local transgender community is not connected to the temple administration.

According to Hindu mythology, the holy river Ganges flows out of Shiva’s hair. An avatar of Shiva in the form of a moorti is not placed in the temple. Instead, a carved yoni and lingam stone is used.

Shiva, also known as Ardhanarishvara is the Hindu god of duality, i.e. half male and half female. Shivaism is a sect established around the worship of Shiva. The two sexual identities of Shiva cannot survive without each other and are reconciled by Shiva.

In many depictions of Shiva, he is seen garlanded with a black cobra, holding a deer in his left hand. This symbolism represents the Vedas, with each of the four legs representing one of the four Vedas. Kanwar Das Kolhi, who belongs to a village near Nangarparker, holds a master’s degree in Urdu literature. He is among the few people in the area who can communicate in Urdu. He shares an urban legend about a deer associated with the temple.

As the legend goes, there used to be dense forests at the place where the temple stands today. A couple of deer once lived in the forest. One day a doe got badly tangled in a Googral tree. She stayed in the same position for days and days and ultimately died. In the next life, the doe returned as a blind lady in the Royal family of Gujrat. She got ill and her family tried everything to cure her. One day she smelled the moong of Barooriya village where she had once gazed as a deer. That was when she told everyone that the only way for her to get well was for someone to bury her skull – that was still stuck in the Googral tree – in the pond at the Shiva temple in Sardharo. A Googral tree still exists near the temple.

Today Hindus across Pakistan come here to pour the ashes of their dead, as it is not convenient for everyone to reach the River Ganges for the purpose. Therefore it is considered the most sacred temple by Hindus all over the country. The pond is fed by a natural spring. It also collects rainwater from Karoonjhar hills.

In Sindh, particularly in the Thar and Parker areas, visitors enter a temple barefoot out of respect, even if the temple is not fully functional. In the Punjab, unfortunately, many Hindu temples have been repurposed as commercial and residential spaces.

At the entrance of the pond, one can see a board in Sindhi language which says that once there was a rishi (saint) named Parasha who chose this place to worship and spent a long time here. Around a thousand years ago, the area was on the seashore. It became a centre of trade as Pari Nagar port was one of the major ports of India since 1st Century BCE. The water of Sardharo Dham is regarded as sacred because Rishi Parasha spent time here.

It is said that the Sardharo was once a mighty river close to the sea. It has now turned into a stream that has a significant amount of water in Saavan only. According to Hindu legends, the river has dried up because of the “sins of the people around it.”

During the month of February at the annual fair known as Shiv Ka Mela, there is a huge gathering, marking the start of spring season. A second fair is held on the 15th of October at purnima (full moon).

Sardharo Shiva temple in Nagarparker is located a few miles away from the Indian border. Perhaps it’s time for the authorities to make religious places, located near the border, more accessible for relevant communities.

The writer tweets @Ammad_Alee