Circa February 1961, Queen Elizabeth set foot on Pakistani soil. The then 34-year-old British monarch was greeted by a joyous crowd and a handsome Pakistani military dictator Ayub Khan. During her 16-day visit, one of her stops was at the Lahore Cathedral on The Mall, also known as The Church of Resurrection.

The church held a special service in honour of the Queen and her husband, Prince Philip, on February 12. After the ceremony, the royal couple signed the visitors’ book. Their signatures — “Elizabeth R” and “Philip” — penned in black ink, are frozen in time.

Built in 1887 in the remarkable neo-Gothic style of architecture, the Cathedral continues to impress the onlookers with its towering presence. There was a weather wane, or weather cock, as it is commonly called in the subcontinent, which was mounted on the central lantern of the cathedral. Because of it the church got its name “Kukkar Girja,” or rooster church. That weather wane was removed because of structural issues many years back.

As you enter the church, you see two rows dedicated for the worshippers, and a narrow passage leading towards the altar. Above it all is the high altar, a Canterbury Cross, embossed on a wall that is a reminder of the fact that the Church of Resurrection is part of the Church of England and that its bishop is nominated by the Archbishop of Canterbury. For the uninitiated, the Church of England left the papal authority in 1534, during the reign of King Henry VIII.

British monarchy, being its supreme governor, has time and again visited this historical church in Lahore.

There was a weather wane, or weather cock, as it is commonly called in the subcontinent, which was mounted on the central lantern of the cathedral. Because of it the church got its name “Kukkar Girja,” or rooster church. That weather wane was removed because of structural issues many years back.

If we further explore the visitors’ book we find that another royal couple — Prince Charles and Camilla — signed on it too. The date mentioned is November 2, 2006.

On the left side of the altar is a pulpit for sermons. Behind the pulpit, tucked away in the high-altar area, two faldstools that were used by His Imperial Majesty King George and HIM Queen Mary during state service at Delhi Durbar on December 10, 1911, lie quietly. Because of special care, the faldstools are still in good shape, a testimony to the craftsmanship of the time.

To the left of the entrance is a wall dedicated to the memory of the officers who served the crown during the British Raj. On the door, a brief history of the Probyn’s Horse is written in golden words. The unit was raised as King Edward VII’s own lancer regiment in Lahore.

The dean of the church, Father Shahid Meraj, fondly tells us that the British royal couple — Prince William and Kate Middleton — were scheduled to spend only 15 minutes at the church during their visit in October 2019, but the wall, the faldstools, and the rich history of their ancestors anchored their feet and made them forget time.

Perhaps, the best treasure kept at the church lies on its right-hand wall: a round box containing a small cross, known as the Taxila Cross.

The cross is believed to be from 1^st to 3^rd Century. The plate below it tells us that the cross was found on the border of Sirkap, near Taxila, circa 1935.

The cross’s most unusual feature is a hole bored in it.

Just behind the cross is a wall decorated with stained glass work depicting Virgin Mary and her blessed son. When sunshine fills the room, the piece of art presents a breathtaking view. It also reminds you that this crown jewel of Lahore lies forsaken and forgotten.