For Sana Zafar Khan it all started with her nani (maternal grandmother) who made jewelry and hosted exhibitions as well, circa 2006. Sana would help her grandmother as she was always passionate about the arts. In fact, growing up, she was an art student. However, she later got an MPhil degree in Development Economics from Cambridge and worked in the field for several years. “I actually used to work in the NGO sector with my area of focus being gender and education,” Sana tells Instep in an exclusive conversation.

According to the jewelry designer, she was meant to start her jewelry line aligned with her nani, who unfortunately passed away. “Around the same time I was expecting, and went to England to have my daughter. Over there I started doing all my research, connecting with people in the field about gemstone acquisitions, visiting workshops in London to learn about the process as well as the equipment used in jewelry making etc.,” she elaborates on how her journey started.

Once she returned to Pakistan in 2018, Sana connected with the local market to find out how things were done here. “I would visit the local workshops in Karachi to basically see the quality of metals and gems, what was available, how they procured the items, and so on.”

She continues, “Then I went to Central Saint Martins in England to do a jewellery making course because I had the designs but needed to understand the basics of jewelry making as well as the techniques.”

Speaking of her transition from the NGO sector to becoming a jewelry designer and launching her own brand, Sana shares, “As mentioned earlier, I used to be an art student and I’ve always been very inspired by aesthetics in general. Although it seems like a very sudden kind of flip from development economics, it actually wasn’t, because I was always inclined towards the arts. To be honest the designing element came fairly innately to me – I had a sense of drawing, perspective, size, etc.”

As far as the jewelry making course is concerned, it helped Sana understand the nitty-gritties of the craft. “If something doesn’t look right, I know where the issue lies and whether a piece needs more buffing, polishing, if it’s durable, can lay on your neck or wherever in a certain manner. So the course created a strong foundation for my designs,” she explains.

In May 2019, Sana finally launched her luxury jewelry brand Azure. The name stems from the Persian term for Lapis Lazuli, which quite literally means deep blue. According to the designer, they have a website as well as a studio in Karachi which can be accessed by appointment. Currently, they are also stocking a very limited collection at Serai Concept Store, Karachi.

When asked if it was her grandmother who inspired her to become a jewelry designer, Sana responds, “I think that opened my eyes to the world of jewelry. There are so many different art mediums and with it, you can go into fashion and illustration among other art forms. So I’d say my exposure to my nani is the real reason why I’ve gone into the jewelry side.”

As for her signature style, Sana says, “Our aesthetic is generally feminine, contemporary and bold. Almost all of our designs have a mix of that. Feminine, because of the floral designs, the usage of pearls and a delicate finish, and contemporary because it’s really made for the women of today. All the pieces are meant to make a statement, even the smallest of pieces, as they are distinct in their own way.”

She furthers, “Overall, pearls are a running theme in my designs. I love pearls, which we source from Hong Kong and Bangkok. I think they exude a regal vibe and in fact make the complexion glow like no other gemstone. Moreover, I use a lot of lapis lazuli – actually that’s the second running theme. In short, our designs are meant to celebrate feminine versatility. The idea behind the designs is that there should be something for everyone - for different women, in different modes. I initially struggled with this and thought I must have one signature style. However, I realized that was not me because I have varied styles depending on the time and occasion. So you can say that our design aesthetic embodies the essence of a contemporary woman who is multidimensional and at the same time sensual and bold.”

Speaking of how she keeps herself updated with the latest trends, Sana tells Instep, “I’d say a lot of my inspiration stems from nature in particular, what I see around me, the memories I have and things like cosmic bursts and starbursts. I have one line which is totally dedicated to florals and then there’s a collection of textured pieces inspired by a molten, metal aesthetic - more rough and rugged.”

Besides pearls and lapis lazuli, some of the other gemstones that Sana incorporates in her jewelry collections include turquoise, rose quartz, garnet, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, among others. “We have also used a few interesting stones like pyrite, which is known as fool’s gold. It looks metallic, like a rough form of gold but it’s actually a stone. Moreover, we use quite a lot of diamonds in our fine jewellery range as well as black onyx,” she informs, adding that she uses sterling silver and gold to create her designs that are all hand finished.

Moreover, Sana designs every piece herself. “You can say I am a one-man show. I even select the gemstones myself,” she shares, “however, I work with different kaarigars. We have sort of a shared model where they can continue their work using their existing workspace and then they give certain hours to my pieces.”

So what sets Azure apart from other jewelry brands out there?

“I think one is the fact that we use both sterling silver and gold as well as real gemstones. Also we don’t compromise on the quality of the materials; and then there is the design element,” she reveals.

“I feel that other brands have a very singular aesthetic which is no doubt beautiful, but can be very conceptual or traditional. I think that truly versatile design sets Azure apart from the rest.

Not only is there a piece for everyone but it’s also very cosmopolitan. Each Azure piece can work with eastern or western attire. Quite recently we’ve had foreign - British and Italian - companies approaching us to feature our pieces on their websites. I think that’s because we are offering a contemporary edge that anyone can relate to. And I do believe that the designs are unusual and unique,” she concludes.