A massive complex dominated by multiple temples with varying degrees of grandeur, elevations and architectural brilliance, scattered around a small, depleting green lake, old havelis complete with traditional jharokas (balconies) and dark, narrow staircases, ancient structures featuring multi-foiled arches looking out into the distance, fluted and boxed pillars, and signature-ribbed domes that stand out magnificently against a backdrop of bright blue skies and green hills, is all that can be witnessed at the historic Katas Raj temples’ site, situated 90 kilometres south-east of Islamabad, near Chakwal, Punjab.

Dating back to 615-950 CE, this site is a treasure trove for history buffs with creative imagination and an urge to retrace the footsteps of those from centuries ago. None of the 90 kilometres of the route gives even the slightest inkling that they’re leading to a location so profound to a neighbouring religion. The road to the temples is just another highway, leading to just another rundown street, with two-way traffic and pedestrians crowding it on all turns and corners.

But once you enter the complex that holds these historic temples (after paying a menial fee at the entrance), you step into a different world, a separate era altogether.

Katas — Shiva’s tears

More than being a national heritage site, the Katas Raj temples have massive significance in the Hindu religion, dedicated to the revered Hindu deity, Shiva. This place is one of the two religious sites in Punjab for members of the local Hindu community, as well as for those visiting it from abroad.

‘Katas’ is a Sanskrit word derived from ‘Kataksha,’ which translates to ‘tearful eyes.’ In Hindu Brahmanic lore, it is said that the pond nestled among the temples here was born when Shiva’s tears fell at this spot as he wept in grief for his beloved wife Sati’s passing. The places of worship around it, as a result, are mostly dedicated to Hindu lords Shiva, Rama, and Hanuman.

Twice a year, the Katas Raj complex is visited by thousands of Hindu yatrees for a sacred pilgrimage. Many of them come in from India and other neighbouring countries for this sole purpose. These visits are most frequent in February, during the festival of Maha Shivratri, and in November and December. The pilgrimage involves a bath in the sacred pond, which is believed to help them attain salvation from their sins. In 2019, 82 Hindu pilgrims crossed the Wagah Border in Lahore for this bi-annual pilgrimage.

The sacred pond, however, has been depleting for years now. Where it once used to be more than seven-foot deep, its natural springs have reportedly been obstructed by excessive use of water by cement plants around the vicinity. A consequent lawsuit did compel the Supreme Court to heavily fine the cement plant owners for exploiting the underground water reserves. However, the water body at Katas Raj is now filled up through tube wells.

Dating back to 615-950 CE, this site is a treasure trove for history buffs with creative imagination and an urge to retrace the footsteps of those from centuries ago. None of the 90 kilometres of the route gives even the slightest inkling that they’re leading to a location so profound to a neighbouring religion.

Sath Graha and the

Pandava brothers

From the stories of the Mahabharata, it is believed that the famed Pandava brothers spent 12 years of their exile on these lands. The land of Dvaitavana, referenced in the Mahabharata, is believed to have been the highest point of the Katas Raj temples, now known as the Sath Graha (seven temples).

The Sath Graha is a section of Katas Raj comprising seven structures built at a higher elevation than the rest of the buildings. The architectural details of these structures are similar to the temples found in Kashmir from the Karkota and Varma dynasties from 600–900 CE.

It is believed that these are the exact spots where the Pandava brothers spent many years of their life, and also had the famous riddle contest with the Yakshas. The highest temple at the Saath Graha dates back to 650-900 CE and was a Buddhist site prior to becoming a temple which was dedicated to the worship of Shiva.

Visitors are recommended to employ a tour guide to help them around the complex and provide information on the historical significance of the place. If you’re lucky, your tour guide will be kind enough to open the doors to the highest Sath Graha temple which leads to a series of extremely narrow and dark staircases set in between the tall walls of stones. These staircases can be climbed to reach the rooftop for a majestic view of the surrounding Kallar Kahaar hills and the Potohar plateau.

Relevance to   Buddhism and Sikhs

Prior to being a site of worship for the Hindus, the Katas Raj land also held a Buddhist Stupa, the remains of which can still be found here.

It is also believed that the revered founder of the Sikh faith, Guru Nanak, visited these sites, making it a land of significance for the Sikhs.

The site was under the Punjab government’s Archeological Department for years, before it was handed over to the Federal government’s Evacuee Trust Property Board (ETPB), which deals with all sites of worship in the country.

The temple had always had invaluable importance for the Hindu religion. Having been abandoned during the migration to East Punjab in 1947, the site over time fell into disrepair and has seen neglect and suffering in correspondence with the frequently fluctuating tensions between Pakistan and India, and the two predominant religions in the region.

1,500 years of history

It is crucial to mention here that a site of worship and such historical and cultural significance should never be targeted as a consequence of the tensions between the two countries. It will always be a necessary lesson for us to learn as a nation, to co-exist with communities of different beliefs and respect their choices of faith and religious practices.

Between the Buddhist eras, the eras of the Hindu Shahis (kings), the subsequent British rule, and the Partition of 1947, these buildings at the Katas Raj altogether boast over 1,500 years of history and precious heritage across three separate religions, and will always be worth a respectful visit.

The writer is a PR   professional residing in Islamabad with a passion for travelling, exploring new and    historical places,  and writing.