I take pride in knowing Salt Range like the back of my hand. I learnt a lesson in humility when, skimming through a book, I stumbled on the mention of Kusak Fort in the Jhangar valley. The next Sunday I was on the road to Kusak Fort from Lahore.

We took the Choa Saidan Shah exit from Kallar Kahar and after crossing the town, once known for its gul qand and water streams, took the road towards Watli town. Once we got off the main Choa-Khewra road, the track was a typical shingle country road snaking through shrubby jungles and small villages. Soon we were at Watli that is a decent sized town. Our destination was further down the road. We reached Kusak village from Kallar Kahar in about an hour and a half.

The village is situated at the base of a mountain on top of which you can see the ruins of an ancient fort. Unsure of the way, we requested a villager to help us navigate to the fort. It is almost always advisable to have a local guide both for security reasons and to gain local knowledge that is not available in any book or gazette. Our guide had been rendered unemployed by the Covid pandemic so that he had all the time in the world for us as we started our trek to the fort. The trek was not hard and in about thirty minutes we entered the fort through a largely non-existent gate.

It appeared to be a natural fortress with huge vertical boulders protecting it from a raid by enemy forces. Built in the 11^th Century, it has seen its fair share of ups and downs and been the stage for many battles between Janjuas and raiding armies from across Khyber. The fort was built by Raja Jodh, a Janjua chief, who was the son of Raja Mal of Malot temples fame. In the 13^th Century, the fort was ransacked by Jalal-ud Din Khilji. In the 14^th Century, it narrowly escaped destruction at the hand of Emir Taimur (Tamerlane). Babur, and later the Mughals emperors, apparently left Kusak Janjuas in peace. However, in 1810, Ranjit Singh’s army subdued Sultan Fateh Muhammad of Janjua clan after a battle that went on for more than six months. After the 1810 battle, the fort slowly lost its significance as the Janjuas migrated to Haranpur down the hills. Once the British took over the Punjab in 1849, they migrated back and established the Mehr Sultanpur village next to Kusak. The estate still belongs to the Janjua Sultans family.

Walking around, we saw the typical slits in the crumbling walls meant to pour boiling water on the raiders and for shooting through. Two water ponds designed to store rain water are still intact. So are watch towers in the corners to keep a watch on surrounding mountains in the north and plains in the south. The southern side of the fort is an almost vertical drop to the Punjab plains.

Kusak fort is a private property owned by a local family who may not have the resources or interest in restoring this ancient heritage building. However, the Archeology and Tourism Departments should try to develop the trek and help preserve the crumbling structures.

Soon, we were at the top of the mountain which is occupied by a dilapidated ancient temple. From the temple, one can actually look into the urial territory. The Kusak reserve forest is to the south east. The miles and miles of green and maroon mountains, gorges and jungle are a treat to the eye. One can try spotting the wandering urial hordes but this demands patience and a plan. We were not successful in our attempt as it was around noon and the best time to watch wildlife is either early morning or evening and close to watering points.

The construction method of Kusak Fort was different from Tulaja and Amb forts further west. While Tulaja fort was built using huge boulders that make you wonder how the huge flat chiseled boulders were carried to the site, Kusak fort structures are made of smaller reddish stones from surrounding mountains. Perhaps this is because the Kusak fort was constructed much later than Tulaja. Kusak fort belongs to the long chain of forts and temples situated along the edge of Salt Range starting from Tilla Jogian and including Nandana, Malot, Tulaja and Amb that ends at Mari Indus.

It was time to return but another crumbling structure was bothering us since morning when we saw it from the top of the fort. Right next to Kusak village on a small mound is an old dak bungalow that must have been grand in its heyday. It has arched verandahs, high roofs and crumbling bed rooms. Our guide believed that it was the property of the Mines Department. He said Khewra mines were about two hours away by foot. The dak bungalow was perhaps a rest house for sahib log in times gone by, once they tired of toiling at the salt mines at Khewra. Some research at the office of Jhelum deputy commissioner or the record rooms of the Mines Department may shed some light on the history of this spooky bungalow.

On the way back, one can either turn towards Ara Basharat town and have a view of the beautiful mustard fields and rolling mountains to Dandot and Pind Dadan Khan; or stick to Choa Saidan Shah-Khewra road on one’s way to Pind Dadan Khan and the motorway.

Kusak fort is a private property owned by a local family who may not have the resources or interest in restoring this ancient piece of our heritage. However, the Archeology and Tourism Departments should try to develop the trek and help preserve the crumbling structures.

The writer is a development professional and author of recently published Once upon a time in Murree, a book on Murree’s colonial heritage. He blogs at www.countryroads.pk and can be contacted at omarmukhtar16@gmail.