History tells us that Lahore originated circa 1000 CE as what we now know as the Walled City. Stretched on a 256-hectare land and with a current population of over 200,000, the Walled City is home to several historical monuments such as Masjid Wazir Khan, the Badshahi Masjid and the Shahi Hammam. Besides, its 12 gates, its gallis, its havelis, and a vibrant and indigenous street culture make for a great study of the place. Not to mention, they are also perfect tourist destinations. Sadly, however, the state of tourism is far from encouraging — and this isn’t talking only about the post-Covid situation.

The Walled City of Lahore Authority (WCLA), which was set up in 2012 for the development of the place and the promotion of local tourism, is held responsible for failing to serve its stated mission. As artist and conservationist Dr Ajaz Anwar puts it, “Enforced commercialisation [at the hands of the WCLA] is damaging the heritage as well as the culture of the Walled City.”

He contends that the WCLA may be compelled to have commercial considerations in order to promote tourism, but “tourism ought to stay organic.”

He goes on to explain that “organic” is a form of economic and cultural evolution akin to natural selection, something that happens indigenously and on its own — that is, without interference from authorities. The encouragement for business ventures from outside the Walled City has disturbed the local business patterns, he adds, implying that it is also eroding the city’s culture.

Dr Anwar is also highly critical of the eateries popping up at historical sites such as the Shahi Hammam. He believes that the construction work will damage the original buildings; besides, the food waste will turn them into havens for rats. “Record my protest in bitter words!” he says.

Usman Sami, a noted architect and conservationist, does not see eateries inside the historical monuments as an issue “as long as the conservation guidelines are followed.” He cites the example of the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, Turkey, which hosts a famous restaurant in the Sultan’s courtyard. “The eateries should be in an open space and their infrastructure should be easy to dismantle,” he tells TNS.

The real issue, according to him, is the kind of strategies adopted for the purpose. He laments the fact that “lack of regulation and bad planning are common not just at the WCLA but every public department in Pakistan.”

While Sami does not agree with Dr Anwar’s idea of an “organic business model,” he maintains that certain projects in the Walled City have been a product of political point-scoring. For instance, the new food street, which was launched by PML-N government in order to gain leverage after the closure of the Gowalmandi Food Street. It had become public hearsay that the PML-N government closed the Gowalmandi (which was later reopened in 2012) due to its patronage by the rival PML-Q. The new food street, close to the Badshahi Masjid, in Sami’s view, is purely a commercial endeavour that overshadows the historical significance of the older food streets. “The façade of these buildings is literally made of cardboard,” he adds.

When quizzed, the director general of WCLA Kamran Lashari says that the food street may have had issues with regard to planning but “it is definitely very sustainable.”

The new food street, he adds, is mostly about rooftop views and the job of the WCLA is confined to the street. The rooftops are managed by private owners themselves.

For Lashari, there is no such thing as “enforced commercialisation.” “It’s an open market and everyone has the right to set up a business. Are we now going to complain about newer restaurants replacing the older ones on MM Alam Road?” he asks.

He isn’t ready to accept that Gowalmandi’s downfall is a tragedy and that the government should work on its revival.

Early this year, Pakistan’s media erupted with a scandal when a marriage ceremony took place inside the Shish Mahal of the Lahore Fort. While the media reported that the occasion was indeed a marriage ceremony, Lashari insists that it was a private dinner that took place in the courtyard of the Shahi Bawarchi Khana. “It’s an open space that we utilised.

“See, nobody would have any objections if nothing was being done,” he says, claiming that the event was a move to utilise an unused space.

Lashari also comes down hard on media’s role in projecting facts. He says that the WCLA had to suffer a lot and nobody was interested in taking their perspective on the issue.

“The eateries bring life to an otherwise dead historical place,” he contends.

Contrary to Dr Anwar’s narrative, both Lashari and Sami say that entertainment facilities at historical places are the new trend. Lashari even claims that the WCLA executes such initiatives in line with the preservation guidelines.

Sami adds a crucial perspective on conservation here, by contrasting it with the protocols being followed in Turkey, the former country of his residence. He notes, “[In Turkey,] the policy-making on heritage sites and related issues is done by academics and experts rather than lawmakers. The municipal committees play their role in urban planning while being overseen by the city council.

“The WCLA is playing an effective role as far as the Walled City is concerned, but the team which he [Lashari] leads is overburdened and the country’s resources are outdated.”

Instead of having just four members, consisting of three architects and a conservationist, Sami believes that the WCLA team should ideally comprise 100-odd members. Conservationists, planners, architects, archaeologists, engineers and inventory managers are only some of the expertise appointments required to manage the different dimensions of some 13,000 buildings, he says.

Talking about the minimum number of members on the team required for sustainability, Sami says: “I’m making a wild guess, but it should be at least 30.”

Lashari considers such demands unrealistic like “asking for the moon.” The government, according to him, is “doing what it can within its limited resources. Establishing a specialised body like the WCLA for the Walled City is a great feat.”

Usman Sami points out that the construction/renovation tenders granted for historical sites in Pakistan are completely unregulated. He says that the bidding operates in a way traditional to the construction industry and contracts are given only based on the company’s size and financial capacity without taking into account the expertise of the company concerning historical buildings.

Lashari agrees that smaller projects are handed over to conventional companies but says major projects are started in collaboration with the Aga Khan Trust which, according to him, is the most reliable institution to work with on such projects in Pakistan.

Traffic is a serious issue in the Walled City that not only limits the tourism potential of the area but is also a menace for the residents. For Dr Anwar, the solution lies in declaring the Walled City a pedestrian zone. “Lahore has always been a city to be explored by foot,” he says.

For Sami, the idea of pedestrianisation is no longer viable. “Instead, traffic regulation is the solution.” For this, he proposes the construction of low-cost parking buildings just outside the Walled City and toll tax for vehicle entry into it.”

Lashari is in favour of pedestrianisation but he thinks that the aforesaid proposals are farfetched and involve a lot of stakeholders. He says that a lot has to be done to control traffic inside the Walled City, but a recent approval by Chief Minister Sardar Usman Buzdar to construct an overhead bridge from the City Railway Station to the Greater Iqbal Park will significantly divert the traffic load.

Finally, commenting on the cultural preservation and promotion Dr Anwar had talked about, Lashari says the WCLA has undertaken a lot of initiatives including night tours, tongas and rickshaws operating within the city, and pilgrimage tours for Sikh yatris. However, he laments that the culture of street art is extinct. “There is not a single musical instrument or street performer to be seen in the entire city of Lahore. We’ve turned them into beggars.”

The writer is an alumnus of Aitchison College, currently pursuing his bachelor’s at York University, Canada, where he also serves as the Pakistani community director. He writes on   politics, current issues and history, and tweets @Khan__Bahadur