There is no denying that fashion is quickly turning into money minting machinery. The fraternity, which was severely neglected a couple of decades ago, is fast transforming into a behemoth industry, forming symbiotic relationships with other mainstays of the economy. The audience is becoming more discerning, the structure of fashion is globally in flux and competition is fierce; this is the environment you have to stand out in as an aspiring designer. While there may be a new brand launching each day and enjoying its five seconds of fame, it takes more than a flash sale and some Instagram coverage to sustain a business and cultivate a clientele. You can’t just be a good designer and expect to get by; each label must have a unique selling point or the hype will wear off and the brand too will become a passing fad.

Launching yourself as a designer then isn’t the difficult part; it’s maintaining your reputation and building on it that requires smarts. One such aspirant, who is determined to show her mettle, is Hira Ali, a young Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design (PIFD) graduate who burst onto the scene earlier this year with her capsule collection Curiouser and Curiouser, showcased during the Bank Al-Falah Rising Talent segment at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week ‘16. Ali was one of the five graduates who made a runway appearance this season and though she didn’t win, the waif like designer left a strong impression.

What also works in Ali’s favour is that she is currently under the apprenticeship of one of the most sought after designers in the country, Khadija Shah of Elan and Sapphire. Ali works full time at Elan as a designer, learning the tricks of the trade from arguably the best and is also quietly building personal portfolio at the same time. She recently hosted a well-attended exhibit at the PFDC Fashion Active where her PSFW collection was on display for detailed examination as well as stocking more wearable versions of her designs. We catch the designer in middle of a busy work day, during lunch and chat about her design ethos and other haute topics.

Ali identifies as a minimalist, whether in terms of design or personal style. She believes that there’s a local obsession with the avant garde, since we have a penchant for drama but her philosophy is less is more.

"I wasn’t always sure what direction I wanted to head in; it’s not easy determining your aesthetic but I’ve found that there’s an elegance and finesse in simplicity. It was this lack of minimalism in design in our region and country in particular that encouraged me to pursue that as my forte. Designing for me is a process where even embellishments need to be placed strategically, instead of just an indistinct scatter. Everything you design must serve a purpose," she elaborates.

Considering that Ali has a design background it seemed pertinent to inquire if her education had prepped her well for professional life or not. "My degree is something I cherish. It taught me so much and allowed me to build a strong base from which I could explore options. It taught me how to transform my creativity from something intangible into something very real. It is very important for designers to know how to put their imagination into construction and that’s what they teach us in school everyday. Not just that but also to nurture your ideas and expand on them is a part of our training," she states.

With two runway collections for one of Lahore’s most sought after design houses - Elan – Ali has proven herself to be an integral part of the time. She also has to work closely under Shah, the creative director and the raison d’etre of Elan and Sapphire’s meteoric rise. Of working at the brand Ali says, "Élan is an absolutely wonderful starting point for me. I am leading their western couture department and that has helped me develop as a designer and explore an aesthetic different from mine. Deadlines are deadly but thrilling. I love challenges. And that’s a typical work day at Elan. As for Khadija, she’s never short of inspiration. She helped nurture my aesthetics and skills. She’s been a role model and I am stupefied by the fact that she can handle so many departments at once. Her mind is always on a roll. We have done two shows together and it was absolute madness. But she’s always there for the team, no matter how chaotic things get."

Our conversation turns to fashion week and how different the experience was when Ali showcased alone as opposed to participating in it as part of design team.

"Fashion week was insane to handle with a full-time job," she elaborates. "I couldn’t have done it without Khadija’s support because a solo show is a totally different ball game. When you’re designing for a label there’s a whole structure and team but showing your own clothes means you’re the head honcho calling the shots and it’s entirely your responsibility how things turn out. That said I’m so grateful for the exercise because it launched me as a designer in the market. The coverage I got was overwhelming and honestly I didn’t quite expect it," Ali claims.

While most designers use the Bank Al-Falah platform to launch themselves, not many capitalize on the momentum the break gives them. Ali however, was sharp enough to strike while the iron is still hot. She promptly started planning an exhibit to ensure that the publicity generated didn’t simply fade away.

"The exhibition was tough and mustering the courage to tell Khadija about it was even tougher," she reveals with a laugh, "I was quite nervous but she was cool about it. For me though the best part about the exhibit was that people showed up. I thought the turn-out would be dismal but it was great. I have been getting inquiries ever since and mostly from people who are abroad so that’s encouraging."

Ali pegs that her success won’t just be a flash in pan because her aesthetic will carry her label forward. "I like to look for unexpected silhouettes or ways of sewing embellishment. I find that if you play with detailing and embellishment on the back, or make it back side front, the outfit immediately becomes more interesting. If I’m using sequin I’ll add a bead below it to give extra dimension," she claims.  She also has eyes on a shoe line next but no time lines in mind since she wants to concentrate on her full time job and make most of her experience at Elan.

Ali represents the younger generation of fashion; the new wave that wants to break away from the classic, conservative aesthetic and embody a more European ethos. Intrepid and irreverent in their approach, this young lot isn’t afraid of breaking rules and don’t feel the need to pander to a commercial market. Only time will tell if this niche approach will lead to a trickle down acceptance of their aesthetic or whether the market will eventually force them to dance to their tune.