There’s no denying the strength of Pakistan’s fashion industry today. From a tiny cottage operation that circled the verandahs and private studios, fashion has become a thriving industry that has ambled into nationwide retail. In some cases it has even gone beyond the borders. While every single designer who creates original styles inevitably adds value, it is these nine names that have worked with their design magic, coupled it with commerce and influenced the way women in Pakistan dress today. These are the brands that we anticipate most. These are names that have changed the perception of ready to wear for women and who have added extra oomph to the image of fashion. Here are eight strong labels that we will be keeping a keen eye on in 2016…

Sana Safinaz

Sana Hashwani and Safinaz Muneer picked up an impressive three Lux Style Awards in 2015, one each for Best Pret, Luxury Pret and Lawn. They also opened and maintained 14 retail outlets nationwide (aiming to cap it at 20 outlets in 2016), replenishing their stocks with lawn, silk and winter shawl collections other than the Eid capsules. But ultimately their value is not for volume; Sana Safinaz is a name that excites for having aspirational properties and a unique contemporary aesthetic that allows a modern image for the Pakistani woman. It’s appropriately modest for everyday wear while teasing the peripheries of what is acceptable when it comes to an asymmetrical silk tunic or a body suit.

This year promises to be just as busy for the brand. The designers plan to show at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week as well as bridal week in Lahore. "We’ll decide on Karachi as and when the dates are announced," Safinaz spoke to Instep. Sana Safinaz will also be adding a new range of lawn this year, one designed with a fresh and youthful take developed for the younger market. Less for more!

Khadijah Shah

Navigating through her personal labels, Elan and Elan Vital, while simultaneously functioning as the highly successful Creative Director of Sapphire, Khadijah has gone from strength to strength in 2015 and promises to up the ante in 2016. We’ve seen her collections find their own identity and fly this past year and we’re sure that this designer will push herself even further in 2016. Sapphire has been expanding surely and steadily, picking up the kind of loyalty that causes mass hysteria at seasonal sales. So what’s in the pipeline?

Elan will be branching out to Karachi in March and both lines will be available at the standalone boutique in the Swiss Cottages near Sattar Buksh. March will also witness the unveiling of Elan lawn. Sapphire will be adding on more lines like accessories and home to their existing stores and the brand does intend to tap into Faisalabad and Bahawalpur while opening another store in Lahore very soon. Will we see a change in design?

"Unstitiched is the biggest market and that you realize when stores open all over the country," Khadijah Shah confirmed. "Prints are not going anywhere. I do get tired of seeing them but that’s what women want. When you’re selling a tunic for 1500 there are limitations. It has to be functional and cost effective and solids require more structure, which isn’t always feasible. That said we are working on new shapes. We stay ahead of the curve."

Sania Maskatiya

She showed successfully at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week as well as Bridal Week but nothing blew us away as strongly as the capsule collection that Sania designed for the Toni&Guy Hair Fashion Scout at FPW Winter/Festive 2015. While prints and value-added detailing have always been this designer’s strength, we look forward to more cutting edge and contemporary minimalism. A full collection on these lines would be brilliant.

But what is in store for Sania Maskatiya this year? We’re hearing of new stores in Lahore, at least one of them at the upcoming Nishat Hotel. And there’s a hint of international expansion, which explains the diversification of designs from prints to solids. Sania will not be working with Al-Karam this year and will be releasing her own capsule lawn collection mid-summer, around Eid, Umair Tabani shared.

Zara Shahjahan

Her ready to wear brand Coco was one of the first to introduce funky, fun digitally printed kurtas almost two years ago and Zara Shahjahan, with Coco and her eponymous ready to wear line, did become part of every discerning fashion lover’s wardrobe last year. What Zara brings to the table is edgy styles that are slightly left of centre and innovation that makes Zara Shahjahan designs immediately distinctive. The brand has opened its doors to Islamabad this weekend and is looking at further expansion in 2016.

"We do collections, not one of prints, whether for Coco or Zara Shahjahan," the designer spoke to Instep about what makes her brand different. "We also retain high quality, which makes our clothes slightly more expensive."

While Zara has already been designing luxury pret, she will be going big with couture and customized clothing in 2016. Moreover, she’ll be opening a 4th store in DHA’s Y-Block in March, a 5th store at the Emporium in the soon-to-launch Nishat Mall in April and a 5th store at the upcoming Packages Mall in October.

Zara will be showing at PFDC’s pret and bridal weeks this year and she will be releasing her lawn collection in March. She’s got quite a busy year up ahead!

Khaadi

Shamoon Sultan is the man every designer wants to be. That’s very simply because his professional growth has taken him further beyond the borders than any other designer from Pakistan has ever gone. Between Khaadi and Khaadi Khaas, it’s Khaadi Home that has picked up like speed on a Lamborghini. With Shamoon in the driving seat, there’s no stopping this brand and we look forward to what the new year will be bringing in with it. We know that there’s a giant Khaadi outlet in the works at Dolmen Mall, Clifton; this should be opening by February, we hear. International expansion is also inevitable, as Khaadi’s fire has been raging beyond the expat community.

What we appreciate most is the aesthetic, which is intrinsically Pakistani while adapting so well to the globe. We also love Khaadi accessories, those funky pieces that make great giveaways or statements when worn. Will Khaadi get the green signal to open shop in India? 2016 will tell, for sure.

Ali Xeeshan

An intrepid creative, Xeeshan came on to the scene with a bang in 2010 and has consistently delivered since. He has carved a colourful niche for himself with his avant garde designs, irreverent treatment of fashion and dramatic flair. He regularly amps up the theatrics on the runway, turning his fashion presentations into a dynamic representation of his genius. Ali’s bold use of colour, over the top, layered styling and knack for introducing unusual accessories mark his designs as instantly recognisable, giving him strong foothold in the industry. According to rumours, he has also recently forayed into costume design, creating the wardrobe for Mor Mahal, GEO TV’s epic royal saga that will air this year.

As for what’s in store, Xeeshan has exciting plans. He’s back at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week after missing a season last year and is also trying his luck with lawn. "I aim to do something different than the usual cliched lawn. There are certain commercial considerations I have to keep in mind but my collection will be designed along my signature aesthetic. I’m also looking towards expanding my business overseas. Hopefully I’ll be opening a store in Dubai by the end of 2016."

Mahgul

Debuting in 2013 the eponymous label run by husband and wife duo, Mahgul and Amir Rashid won over critics and fashionistas alike with its unique creations. One of the main reasons why the brand has done so well is because its design philosophy is dictated by the creative director’s aesthetic rather than the trappings of commercialism or vagaries of trends. Mahgul is yet to show a complete collection at fashion week but has already accomplished more as a brand than many other established names. This year fashion week attendees will finally witness a complete runway collection by the brand and along with it the introduction of a ready to wear pret and semi formal line.

Speaking to Instep, Amir Rashid, the brand’s business director better known as ‘Buzzy’ revealed, "We’re excited and nervous because we’re about to launch a subsidiary line that will be available off the rack. We’ll launch it immediately after fashion week and will exhibit the currently unnamed line all across the country, after which it will be available at our store in Lahore and at the multi-brand outlets we stock at." Mahgul may be limited when compared to the bigger brands around but her limitations are restricted to volume not creativity. We’ll be watching her in 2016.

Misha Lakhani

Misha Lakhani’s aesthetic can very easily be categorized as romantic feminine. Her clothes posses a dreamy, ethereal quality that evoke visions of innocence and grandeur simultaneously. In a country obsessed with pretty, feminine clothes, it is not only difficult to stand out but also challenging to present an original take on the beloved style. Misha manages both with panache and isn’t afraid of breaking the rules. She sent barefoot models walking down the runway in Lahore, an unimaginable move in the high heeled circles of local fashion. Her store in Karachi is a regular stop for the style savants and she recently opened shop in Lahore as well.

2016 is turning out to be a big year for Lakhani, personally and professionally. "We hope to launch our new e-store for the international market this year. I’m also having a baby so unfortunately won’t be able to make it for PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in spring." We’ll miss her presence at fashion week but wish the designer the very best as she expands her family!