Notoriously called ‘Heera Mandi’, or Shahi Mohalla, Lahore’s Red Light area was once considered a place that established a culture of song and dance.

It was also recognised as the breeding ground of eastern classical music. Additionally, the place made some of the food stalls such as Phajja Kay Paye and Fazle Haq famous beyond compare.

But over the past few decades, as Lahore’s population increased, people moved out of the area, into new localities, mostly Defence. This meant that the place was diluted to the extent that it is almost unrecognisable today.

Walking down the area, one finds that the ‘offices’ -- as these places were known in the vernacular -- have been replaced by other small businesses. Small industries of plastic or shoes, for example, have been set up in these rooms.

Others are occupied by men who have come to Lahore looking for work. The bazaars in the streets are mostly dominated by shoe stores and music shops.

The lure of siri paye, a traditional food loved by Lahoris, has also diminished as the said eateries have opened branches in other parts of the city.

In their stead, modern restaurants have come up in the food street next door that offers customers good, traditional cuisine as well as a grand view of the Badshahi Mosque.

Some of those who still reside in the Shahi Mohalla and adhere to the profession of ‘mujra’ are trying to keep up with the modern world by terming their services as ‘musical groups’.

The new face of the area gives a nagging feeling that Lahore has lost a part of its being -- that it is not whole anymore.