Her collections are often an ode to craftsmanship and the world’s rich and vibrant history but that doesn’t stop them from being a celebration of the modern woman. Nida Azwer comes across as a shy, warm and welcoming individual but don’t let her timid appearance fool you for she is a powerhouse of talent when it comes to translating her artistic vision to clothes.

Starting her label back in 2009, Nida has come a long way in a short span of time and has still created a niche for herself - one that is a hard find even for those who have been working for over a decade. Celebs and fashionistas have all been spotted gliding down red carpets in Nida Azwer atelier and the fluidity and intricacy of her luxurious bridals are a sight to behold for brides-to-be. However, competition has been tough and many have been upfront in questioning the innovativeness of her ready-to-wear line. Even her lawn collection, which came out with a bang in 2012, seems to have fizzled out, turning into limited edition lawn tunics available at her store.

While Nida has been consistent in showcasing fashion week collections year after year, she still often falls short of making a mark. That doesn’t mean her collections are not great; they are just not outstanding. Now celebrating the second anniversary of her Lahore outlet, Instep catches up with the designer on how lucrative ready to wear has been for her brand and if the industry has been far too critical…

Instep: What is it like being part of the fashion industry? Can it get tough and biased?

Nida Azwer: I launched my brand in 2009 with a debut fashion show in Karachi and can’t say I’ve looked back. I had incredible support from the industry, with stalwarts and new designers coming out in support from my first show. I work with the PFDC and the Fashion Pakistan Council, both in harmony and happiness. Ultimately, every industry has its share of biases, favourites or politics but if you put your head down and do what you do best, none of it affects you.

Instep: You recently celebrated your outlet’s second anniversary in Lahore. Has branching out to Lahore proven to be a great decision in terms of business and popularity?

NA: Our Lahore store is located in the prime shopping area of MM Alam Road and the location has been key. Our aesthetic has also won audiences and patrons in Lahore as it is not necessarily minimal in design - our heavier luxury prêt and formals do very well off the racks.

Instep: Your bridals are always a stand out, however your ready-to-wear line is often seen as safe and less distinctive. What do you have to say about that?

NA:The Atelier was borne out of our bridal wear and therefore it is something we’ve always been identified with. Our prêt is still relatively newer, but in terms of design carries through the same South Asian identity as our bridals. We do recognize a need to be bolder with our prêt, which translated this year into the two luxury prêt collections we’ve shown: The IznikCollection at PSFW and the French Trellis collection at FPW for instance.

Instep:You have consistently shown at fashion weeks and in the past year you have shown at TDAP as well as the PIA showcase. Isn’t it overexposure of the brand?

NA: For any brand, there is always a fine line between what and how much you should be doing - we are always very cognizant of it and I think are in fact a brand that is known to be more understated in our approach as opposed to overreaching in exposure and marketing. We showcase a minimum of two times a year and a maximum of four times a year on the ramp in Pakistan with dedicated shows and that too always seasonally - it’s the same if not less than what brands do internationally. I think over exposure perhaps becomes an issue for brands when you are a part of every event/launch/fashion show/red carpet etc - we try to choose where we want to be. We always make sure to stay exclusive but without being reclusive.

Instep: What is your view of plagiarism especially since a number of our designers have been complaining about it?

NA: We have a very distinct aesthetic and one that is largely steeped in the tradition and legacy of Eastern historical references. I take great pride in the fact that our brand has a very independent identity in its own right. Everything made under the Nida Azwer label is hand crafted by artisans who have been exclusively trained by the design team. In fashion however, as it is in any art or creative form, it is only natural for designers to share influences with other national or international references but its one’s own interpretation of those elements that makes it distinct. I also feel that there will always be the adaption of high fashion to high street anywhere in the world - the trickle down effect is only natural and you will always see interpretations of Balmain, Pucci et al for instance at Zara, H&M and Top Shop.

Instep: What’s next for the label?

NA: We are coming out with a collection for Eid and prepping for bridal week.  We are also introducing another capsule collection of lawn prints this summer, between June and July.