Thinking of a visit to the latest ‘neighbourhood’ dhaba - the Chaiwala? Here are two points to note: go hungry and remember that a good cup of tea is not everybody’s cup of tea. Set as a typical roadside joint, this dhaba with a twist, has less in common with a tin-roofed shack that one would normally go to for a ritual, afternoon caffeine kick (of course by afternoon we mean you wait till 5pm to satisfy those insatiable cravings because that’s their operational opening hour). Instead its an open space lit with fairy lights inviting you to stroll its cobbles, housing about 10 to 15 plastic garden chairs, a bunch of vibrant but uncomfortable wooden tables serving as a canvas for truck art murals and a sizeable warning sign asking one to use the trash can for litter - mostly cigarette butts in this case.

The young duo of AizedSuharwardy and HamzaUsman surely deserve applause for reviving dhaba culture without compromising on hygiene levels and giving the traditional chai, a hip, quirky, modern-day makeover. As the evening progresses, the space attracts an animated crowd ranging from college jocks to even the more mature, vintage car enthusiasts who are a rare occurrence outside cigar lounges. Families are scarce but existent and perhaps aren’t even a target market.

Coming to the food, don’t assume it to be a lighter take on the traditional tea. We suggest it’s worth saving oneself a lunch meal for it has a variety of butter-laden, sumptuous parathas on offer that will have you fighting over the last scraps. From aaloo parathas that are spiced enough to have an innate snap to the fingerlickin’ good nutella parathas that we hear are usually served with fresh strawberries, but we don’t mind even if they weren’t in our case. Crispy and fresh off the pan with barely any grease making them unappetizing, the parathas will not make you feel guilty over binging.

Avoidable though at the Chaiwala is some of the chai on the menu and that’s unfortunate for a place that serves it as its specialty. Out of the many options available, the elaichi chai and the good old doodh patti impressed and retained their signature taste. However, that is not to suggest that the doodhpatti beats any other in the city. Kashmiri chai, on the other hand, is a disappointment and tea loyalists for over decades will have a hard time digesting it sans criticism. (Read: Avoid taking your mother or else spare yourself a night’s lecture on what all was wrong with the chai).

Nonetheless, nit-picking aside, Chaiwala is good news for college kids looking for an outdoor space to hangout minus all the ogling. For the rest who prefer a more secluded environment, especially with family around, have the option of sitting in their car and being served. Given its parathas are made with skill and care, we wish it’d open in the early hours of the day but till then, even a chai parathabreakfast at Chaiwala begins at 5pm!