Come 2015 and it appears ‘old age’ is having a fashion moment internationally. Early in January, French brand Celine revealed 80-year-old American literary figure Joan Didion as the new face of its brand; it was a face that appeared without much of the digital retouching we’re used to and it stirred up a storm of emotions on social media. Some applauded the brand’s approach to celebrating age and making wrinkles just as fashionable as chiseled jaw lines, others found it to be a cynical attempt made only to make younger women feel good about themselves because why would anybody aspire to be old.

The few odd critiques, however, haven’t discouraged designers from featuring older models and personalities in their ad campaigns. L’Oreal named 65-year-old former supermodel Twiggy as the UK ambassador for its "Professionnel" salon line - she also recently modeled her latest summer collection for Marks and Spencer. 44-year-old Naomi Campbell sits pretty and age-defying for Burberry’s SS15 shoot whereas Dolce & Gabbana is far more liberal with its choice of a trio of elderly ladies holding the brand’s handbags and wearing ornate head gears for its SS15 campaign. They also flash lacey garters, you may have noticed.

While the international luxury fashion industry is echoing ‘old and grey’ power these days - be it to celebrate the beauty of ageing gracefully or just as a shock, sales tactic - Pakistani models are repeatedly criticized for being exhausted, overused and for working post an ‘agreeable’ retirement age. A certain model’s stretch marks, loose skin and post-baby curves often pave way for whispers amongst frowers at fashion weeks. And to think just how many times senior models have been asked the question "don’t you feel models in Pakistan should have a shelf life?" with an anecdote from the West - countless!

The most common reason cited for not retiring, perhaps as early as Gisele Bundchen, is similar to the one Mehreen Syed offers. "There are hardly any new options and new faces in the industry, especially girls that are trained enough to take on the runway and that’s when senior models step in. I am the only model currently who has opened an academy, IFAP, to train and groom budding models," Mehreen told Instep. "However the fact remains that it is our senior, experienced models who have been taking care of the industry and pushing it forward. Of course nobody can become a model if she doesn’t meet a specific age, weight and height criteria but if a senior model has maintained herself and has the energy to continue looking good then we should appreciate it."

Former model Vaneeza Ahmed agrees. "We need to get over that thinking and stop being so close-minded that models just have to be 18-year-olds. Isn’t it more ridiculous to have a 14-year-old walk the ramp or model for a campaign? A model can be a model at any age. It all depends on the kind of brand one is selling. She is not a milk carton that she has to have a shelf life. If she is looking good and has it in her better than a 20-year-old then why not."

The point to make note of here is the requirement of the brand and its target market. If, for instance, the brand is an anti-aging cream then it makes sense to have an older model advertise it but can the same be said for an apparel brand selling tank tops? However, while French giant Celine’s campaign seems apt in encapsulating all that constitutes its target market, the same cannot be said for Yves Saint Laurent that signed on Joni Mitchell as its latest model or even D&G for that matter. It certainly is a welcome thought that growing old is not the end of all things pleasurable or in this case, fashionable. Then why haven’t designers in Pakistan, where fashion is even modest enough for the older women of our culture, been experimental and liberal enough to shoot with an older personality. Could there be a bias in play?

"Nobody is biased," asserts Safinaz Muneer. "Even in the West two to three brands are using older models, that too, because it is a well thought out marketing strategy and that works for them. But if you want to sell something, it has to appeal to you first. Anyone younger, with better skin, thinner body is always more attractive. Is it fair? No, but it’s business. This is just the nature of business. If my product required an older model then for sure I would use her. [As for the lawn campaign] No I wouldn’t because that’s not our target audience and one has to be very careful about who they are."

When it comes to commercial targeting and market specificity, beauty brands have been on-point in using older women, but perhaps the best possible explanation of using older models in case of fashion comes from writer Hannah Mariott in one of her recent articles, this use has to be "more casual and habitual".

"After a certain age, models need to turn into personalities and be used accordingly: that is, unless the advertiser is promoting a certain age bracket product," editor and stylist Andleeb Rana Farhan pointed out. "The international market is using older models simply because those luxury products are targeted towards the older rich clientele…hence beautiful older ex-models fit the bill. But age has nothing to do with consumer and media mindset. Everyone wants change. You get bored seeing the same faces over and over again, without a break for many, many years. When an Aliya Zaidi hits the ramp, I will be excited simply because I will be seeing her after a break. Breaks are important and that’s where our girls miss the point."

Agreed. When Hina Bayat recently walked for Natasha Kamal at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week it was quite a refreshing experience for the audience. Even more exciting was to see Frieha Altaf and Atiya Khan close the show for Maheen Khan’s FPW finale last year. Pakistan has yet to see an older face on the billboards or a campaign - an older lawn model could indeed be a great addition for its market is ageless - and as Andleeb reveals "a lot of textile companies who have approached me for styling shoots are looking for change now and there will be change and a different look soon".

All of this, however, doesn’t mean that the Pakistani modeling industry should continue with their ‘everything goes’ outlook, having no set criteria whatsoever. It’s not like the world has just woken up to the beauty of ageing and indeed, age is just a number. But some numbers in life call for you to be an icon, a celebrated, timeless personality of substance and not just a repetitive, sellable face. Seeing the soon-to-be-seventy Maheen Khan on the cover for a fashion campaign, for example, is bound to  grab peoples’ attention better than a younger model’s oil-reared face but viral sensations are made by the rare not the regular.