Those of us -- which means almost everyone -- who have never seen the valley of Kashmir but only heard of its fabled beauty, will be surprised to find "Little Kashmir", as the English referred to it, right here in the peaceful Ghizer district of Gilgit.

Turning westwards from the silky waters of the Indus, a day’s drive from Gilgit on a metalled road, passing Gahkuch and its vibrant polo field and Gupis, with is twin mountains and majestic lake, situated at over 9000ft., is Phandar Valley. It is characterised by stark, towering, snowcapped mountains of the Karakorum meaning black mountains. However, in innumerable towns and villages, water channeled from the nalas, emerging in the mountains, creates a profusion of greenery giving us the fabled fruit of this region.

Most such green areas are narrow and incline steeply to the rivers below.

At first glance Phandar valley is a charming surprise, unfolding as a vast flat plateau of neatly parcelled lush green fields, with a lazy river meandering across. This vast plateau was once a lake, which naturally opened up a few 100 years ago.

Taking a riverside walk is relaxing and leisurely quite unlike the universal trekking fatigue one encounters on inclining tracks -- all walks here are on flat and gentle terrain. The jade green fields and damp meadows are soothing for the senses.

One of the best walks is across the main cantilever bridge, and then along the languorous Ghizer River that reflects the clear skies above, picturesquely set in the midst of meadows and slender poplar trees. This river, like most rivers in these areas, is like Iqbal’s impetuous Kohistan River, but here in Phandar, the romantic landscape is dotted with small Nordic cattle, curly sheep and toiling farmers. The basic and simple homesteads are scattered across the plains, and hedges are still woven with thorns and bushes.

By mid-day, just as   the air warms, often a west wind is followed by tempestuous clouds. Phandar is known for rapidly changing weather and sooner than expected, a light drizzle may well freshen your countenance. But, as in most of Gilgit Baltistan such showers are light and transitory…indeed many seasons may be experienced here in a single day.

Phandar is at a considerable height and, therefore, fruits such as peaches and apples mature late in the season. However, in mid June you will be greeted along the way by wild roses and the honeyed mulberries of Ghizer. The weather in summer is mild to moderate, but jackets may come in handy, especially when the evening gales bring in a cooler clime.

It has a few local hotels and a comfortable PTDC hotel just above the lake. The Ghizer River here is celebrated for trout fishing and there are numerous trekking valleys and nalas. The native language is Chitrali Khowar.

A jeepable, 45 kilometeres long road, leads up to the green pastures of Shandur and on to Chitral. For those who have time, whilst returning from Phandar to Gilgit, a visit is recommended to the quaint Yasin and Ishkoman Valleys, both still relatively isolated from modern culture.

In Phandar, as in most of the northern areas, the motorcycle has replaced the horse. Nevertheless, polo remains a popular sport. During my stay in Pahndar I met Wali, a dedicated and brilliant polo player of Little Kashmir.

Sitting on his dazzling silver Badakhshani horse, he told me, "This is the game of the princes of these mountains." Occasionally you may see on the polo field a thrilling clash of titans. But for now there is also bird watching over our conversation, a testimony to the varied flora and fauna. Removed from the daily cacophony of city life, this place is a retreat -- the green fields, the serene walks and over all calm that exists.

In the evening, as you enjoy your last cup of tea, you may feel enchanted by the pristine spectacle of gilded clouds set on an infinite azure sky.