The PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week prêt and luxury collections were less experimental than expected, which made many shows lackluster but it’s not to say there weren’t some fashion highs. We saw the bees, bugs and birds as well as florals and metals. At the end of the day, it was real fashion in the designers’ signature styles, which left a lasting impression.

THE BEST

One of the best showcases at PSFW 2014 was brought to the runway by Khaadi Khaas (front page) that showed perfect fusion wear. Shamoon Sultan’s clothes for his prêt label were beautiful in their style, execution and presentation. The collection focused on embroidery in off-white, which was then accented with red florals. This collection with its jackets and harem pants with cuffs will be as readily welcome and wearable here as they will be at Khaadi’s international outlets.

Another retail heavy weight, Maria B (front page) chose to look at her ancestral Kashmir for a modern take that resulted in her wearable and sellable Ladakh collection.

Shehla Chatoor’s Samsara collection, with its gilded opulence, featured saris, studded jackets and slinky dresses with embroidery. It’s no surprise that Shehla’s creations are favoured by celebrities on the red carpet.

Most designers chose Western silhouettes, some opting for the 1930-40′s European classic cuts as seen by Ali Xeeshan and Elan by Khadija Shah. Mohsin Ali for Libas brought a contemporary edge to what could have been a too-saccharine collection, with his sporty detailing and neon on pastels. Iman Ahmed’s subtle sex appeal with Sartorial Philology and Deconstruction was cerebral and refined; it’s what her label is known for. But it still wasn’t as breathtaking as her FPW 2012 showing.

Karma Pink brought a refreshingly desi collection with Karma ki Rajasthani Kahani. Zara Shahjahan focused on springtime prints in streamlined Western silhouettes for her Love Bug collection. The insect elements on the clothes, whether in enormous print or embellished with stones and sequins, looked spring-appropriate and not goth or repulsive.

A special mention for House of Arsalan Iqbal’s Cargwar, whose cargo shalwars were one of the items coveted by fashionistas.

As previously mentioned, many designers stuck to the safety of what they’re known for. We’ve seen better and more thought-provoking collections in previous years from many of these veteran designers.

THE BEST LEFT ALONE

Here’s a eulogy for some trends that we wish have taken their final breath at PFDC this year. So long, Truck Art. May you drive away, as far as possible. Fare thee well, Military Fashion.  We salute you goodbye! Rosettes, we’ll miss you least of all! Without naming anyone, we are implying that designers stuck in these trends go too!

THE HIGH STREET

Speaking of retail value, the high street collections deserve a few honourable mentions. First off, Generation left a spectacular mark on the PFDC platform. One of the oldest retail brands in Pakistan, Generation put together a collection that featured modern yet conservative cuts; they know their market and with this collection they are back on fashion’s radar.

MK Nation’s high street showcase was young, fresh and so much fun. MK Nation will take over the wardrobe of young trendsetters with their separates. Watch out for Instagram selfies featuring the young party crowd wearing MK Nation’s ‘Selfie’ shirts written in sequins. We also loved Maheen Kardar’s quirky icon prints, something that has become her sign ature now!

THE DEBUTS

For the Emerging Talent showcase, PFDC chose designers who have put together collections worthy of being on the ramp. The most well thought out showcase was the Gustav Klimt-inspired collection by Studio S, who presented well-tailored separates.

Photography: Faisal Farooqui and the team @ Dragonfly