tall, lanky young man with a perpetual smile, Waqar Ahmad energetically fills glass after glass of ice-cold orange sharbat for a steady stream of eager customers. Some opt for the milk-based version kept in a separate container - both equally refreshing, though the milk sharbat sells for twice the price.

“I returned to the city from my village in Attock three months ago,” Waqar says, his smile widening as he speaks. “I’ve been coming here since my childhood. I stay with relatives in Mohajir Camp, though my parents are still in the village. I love this work; it’s so much fun.” His enthusiasm is undeterred by the constant battle with swarms of flies that persistently land on the large sharbat containers and the filled glasses on his handcart.

Sharbat, traditionally a concentrated syrup made from fruits, flower extracts or herbs, has a long history in the subcontinent. Introduced by the Mughal emperor Babar, it was a favored drink of the Mughal rulers, known for its refreshing and cooling properties. Today, however, Waqar’s syrups, like most, rely on artificial flavours, colours and fragrances.

The milk sharbat, a crowd favorite, is made with fresh or condensed milk and often includes basil seeds (known locally as tukhm malangan, tukhmuria or sabza seeds), pre-soaked in water. These seeds not only add texture but also a visual appeal to the drink. Waqar’s cart is stocked with several bottles of popular rose syrups, a staple in the local market, their bright pink hues lined up neatly on display.

Waqar doesn’t own the stall; he works as an employee, earning a daily wage of Rs 500, regardless of the day’s sales. The stall owner resides in Baldia Town. His younger brother oversees operations throughout the day.

Conveniently located next to a government water pump, the stall has easy access to water for preparing sharbat and washing glasses. The owner pays a nominal tax for the water but no rent for the space, making the setup cost-effective.

“Sharbat! Just Rs 10!” Waqar calls out, his voice cutting through the bustling street, drawing another group of thirsty customers to his vibrant, buzzing stall.

The writer is an author, illustrator and educator. She may be reached at husain.rumana@gmail.com