“A merry Christmas to everybody! A happy New Year to all the world. Hallo here! Whoop! Hallo!”

— Charles Dickens, A Christmas Carol

I cannot for the life of me remember if there is any season better than winter, especially around Christmas and New Year. All those who are in love and obsessed with the icy cold nights of Lahore will agree – everything looks charming and magical. During this time of the year, the Christian community is zestfully preparing for their biggest event, Christmas.

Last week, my cousin and I were strolling on The Mall. We had intended to attend an event at the Alhamra Arts Council. Midway, we decided to visit the Cathedral Church of Resurrection. What a stunning landmark it is! Located opposite the Lahore High Court, it is commonly referred to as Kukar Girja by Lahorites. Built in a Neo Gothic style, the structure was completed in 1887.

We stopped in front of its Mall side entrance. After seeking permission from the guard, we entered the premises. As we walked on the macadamised road, the magnolious structure of the church came into view. The facade of the church, some may say, bears an uncanny resemblance to that of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris.

After walking around the open premises, we peeked into the slightly ajar door of the prayer hall. There appeared to be some activity inside. Lights of various hues glittered at the other end of the hall. When we stepped inside, we noticed that the aisle was perfectly carpeted; pews were properly arranged. At once, we felt transported to the iconic church in England where Shah Rukh Khan’s memorable scene from Jab Tak Hai Jaan was filmed. In the few moments, everything felt surreal.

As we approached the altar, we saw that some young men were decorating the church. Normally, preparations begin a month before the “big day.” I have heard some local Christians use the phrase while referring to Christmas. However, in some vicinities, devotees decorate the holy places just a week before.

In terms of festivities, the week before Christmas appears almost the same as that of Eid. People visit each other’s homes and exchange gifts.

In terms of festivity, the week before Christmas is almost the same as that of Eid. People visit each other’s homes and exchange gifts. They go shopping for new dresses, gifts and essentials. In Christian localities, some people go through the streets, going door-to-door, heralding the arrival of Christmas.

Festivities reach their peak on the eve of December 24, when people gather in churches in large numbers. An hour before midnight, many people recite hymns and recite supplications. At the stroke of midnight, they begin their celebrations to mark the birth of Jesus Christ (peace be upon him). As the night wears on, people return to their homes only to return to church the next morning to attend the Holy Mass.

Earlier this week, I strolled along the bustling Mall once again, to witness the Christmas preparations. I also spoke to Arif Gill, a worker at a garment shop in Anarkali. “I attend Grace Church located in Rachna Town to celebrate Christmas,” he told me with a smile. “When we gather in the church on Christmas morning, it feels like we are all connected at a deeper level…we feel closer to one another,” he said with sparkling eyes.

While I was speaking to Gill, I thought of visiting S Mohkam-ud Din and Sons Bakers. In one of my previous meetings with Mohkam sahib, the owner of the establishment, he had said that he had a deep connection with the Christian community. Since the inception of the bakery, the family has been serving the Christians of Lahore with its signature wedding and Christmas cakes. In anticipation, I went to the bakery. On the entire Mall strip, S Mohkam-ud Din and Sons Bakers was the only shop that had put up Christmas decorations.

The bakery was festively decorated with a statue of Santa Clause, a Christmas tree and other festive decorations. Since Mohkam sahib was not at the shop, I had the pleasure of speaking with his brother, Shajar sahib. To my surprise, he said that all major churches of Lahore still ordered their Christmas cakes from their bakery.

When I asked him why their shop was the only in the vicinity that had put up decorations for Christmas, he said, “It is primarily due to our family’s deep connection and devotion to Christianity. We continue to be a part of this event in our city. It is a privilege we cherish deeply.”

The writer has an MPhil in English literature. He can be reached at usama.malick183@gmail.com