hikarpur is celebrated as a city of temples, darbars, dharamshalas, marhis (monastic establishments of Hindu ascetics) and ashrams (places for spiritual retreat). Before independence and partition, Shikarpur proudly held the distinction of having the highest number of Hindu temples in Sindh, each showcasing a unique architectural style and rich history. The city had several impressive grand temples.

Many of these sites were abandoned after the partition as their custodians migrated. The immigrants who often occupied these once-bustling temples and darbars, significantly altered the city’s cultural landscape. The exquisite paintings that adorned the walls of these temples, darbars and dharamshalas, vibrant with intricate designs and historical narratives, became neglected relics of a bygone era. Today, only traces of Shikarpur’s rich heritage survive. The echoes of its storied past are a poignant reminder of the transformations that have shaped this city over the centuries.

The Hindu and Sikh religious places in Shikarpur include Singhan Wari Darbar, Masand Darbar, Dwarka Nath Ji Marhi, Mata Ji Marhi, Singh Bhavani, Mata Wari Dharamshala, Chhatar Wari Dharamshala, Khatwari Dharamshala, Jugal Piyari Than (Lal-Jo-Mandir), Sakhi Sajal Sher Darbar, Budheshwar Mahadev Mandir or Sant Chatruram Waro Shivalo, Jog Mata Mandir, Pooj Udasin Samadha Ashram, Swami Shankar Anand Bharti Mandir, Bana Ram Darbar, Sadhun Jo Mandir, Jamna Das Ji Marhi and Sachkhand Darbar (now rebuilt and called Gurdwara Sachkhand Sahib)s.

While many temples and darbars have been abandoned, occupied, renovated or demolished, other have endured. It is important to note that most have undergone renovations that have adversely affected the originality of their paintings and other artwork.

I have been visiting Shikarpur since 1998 and have documented several temples, most of which have either been renovated or demolished. An impressive temple, known for its magnificent architecture, is located in the Karandar neighbourhood. This temple is currently occupied by a Muslim family. The residents have whitewashed its interior. Two subsidiary shrines flank the central temple, which features a distinctive shikhara (superstructure/ tower) above the garbhagriha (inner-most sanctum), where the deity’s image was once placed. The two subsidiary shrines are topped with domes, noted for their stucco decoration representing geometric patterns. The shikhara, too, is adorned with stucco and lotus petals across the entire surface. A similar stucco decoration can be seen on the shikhara of a Shivalo located in the Wagnodar neighbourhood. There was once a large Banaram Darbar in the same neighbourhood that has been reduced to a small structure.

The Hindu temple in the Karandar neighbourhood likely housed images of three deities. Such a temple, with two flanking shrines, is unique for Shikarpur city. The distinctive feature of this temple was its paintings, which, unfortunately, have been lost. Traces of the artwork, however, can still be found on the temple’s walls. The temple contains two painted Hindi inscriptions, though these have largely become illegible.

Two temples near Shikarpur’s Shahi Bagh, which I first saw in 1998 and again in 2001, 2004 and 2006, have been demolished. One of these temples was adorned with beautiful paintings. Both were exquisitely built, with their main chambers (garbhagrihas) topped by towers (shikharas). Temples with square garbhagrihas and shikharas were once built in nearly every neighbourhood of Shikarpur. A few temples have survived. However, most of those have lost their original lustre and grace.

Two beautiful temples are located on Sindh Wah Road. One of the temple features an inscription in English and Sindhi stating that it was “erected by Ramchand Hemraj in memory of Gobindram Hemraj and his family in 1937.” This temple boasts an impressive portico, which now lies in disrepair. It has the largest square shikhara in Shikarpur, adorned with miniature jharokhas pointing in the cardinal directions. Additionally, it features vertical rows of miniature shikharas and was once decorated with paintings. Another temple with a shikhara (tower) is located near the Gobindram Hemraj temple, currently inhabited by a Muslim family. Unfortunately, this temple has lost much of its originality. I have seen a similar temple with an elegant tower in the Lakhidar area, called the Shivalo or Shiva temple, known for its stucco-decorated tower. Like the other temple, it has also lost its original charm.

Today, only traces of Shikarpur’s rich heritage survive. The echoes of its storied past are a poignant reminder of the transformations that have shaped this city over the centuries.

There is also a Shivalo (Shiva temple) located between Singh Dharamshala Lane and Ghaghrani Lane. Shiva temples were once located throughout Shikarpur. Another impressive Shiva temple (Shivalo) is situated near Sukpul, also called Murlidhar Waro Shivalo. The Sukpul locality housed several Hindu temples, including the Budheshwar Mahadev temple, also known as Chatruram Waro Shivalo. Other old temples in the Sukpul locality, such as Mata Waro Mandir (Dwarka Nath Ji Marhi) and Chhatar Wari Dharamshala, have been renovated, resulting in the loss of their original artwork.

As one wanders through the lanes and markets of Shikarpur, temple towers (shikharas) stand out, reminding visitors of its glorious past. The Stuart Ganj Bazaar hosts a Shiva temple, featuring paintings in the garbhagriha. The shikhara of this temple is adorned with an image of Shiva. There are also a few temples in and around Bhittai Bazaar, including Shivalo, Singh Bhavani and Jugal Piyari Than (Lal-Jo-Mandir). A small Shivalo bears an image of Shiva on its shikhara. Jugal Piyari Than, the temple of Jhulelal, has been demolished to build a new temple in its place; the old temple was decorated with paintings of temple gaddisars (custodians).

An abandoned Hindu temple can be found at Shamshan Ghat near the mukhtiarkar’s office. This temple was once painted but most of the paint has faded and the structure has crumbled.

I have visited an abandoned Hindu temple near the Begari Wah several times. This temple was once noted for its paintings. It is now in crumbling. The distinctive features of this temple are its tower and paintings. Today, the temple is in a shambles, but it was once one of the most imposing temples in Shikarpur.

A few other abandoned temples were located in the Anaj Mandi area. Two of those have been demolished. A third has survived near the Gol Market. The surviving temple had a few attached buildings for pilgrims and for ceremonial purposes that have since been demolished. This temple is decorated with paintings depicting scenes from Hindu scriptures, including the Mahabharata, Ramayana, Vishnu Purana, Bhagavad Gita, Gita Govinda and Bhagavata Purana. It also portrays Sikh gurus, as well as nath yogis and other Hindu ascetics, notably the giris, puris and bhartis. However, most of these paintings are in a poor state.

Wall paintings are also found in Balkram Ji Marhi, located near Lakhidar. The marhi is adorned with artwork representing themes from Hindu scriptures such as the Ramayana, Mahabharata, Vishnu Purana and Gita Govinda. In addition to depicting Hindu deities and saints, it also features Sikh gurus and saints. Four avatars of Vishnu—Matsya (fish), Kurma (tortoise), Rama and Krishna—are painted on the walls of Sant Balkram Ji Marhi, along with an image of Jhulelal. The coronation of Rama (the seventh avatar of Vishnu) by Sage Vasishtha is depicted on one of the walls of Balkram Ji Marhi, alongside several other themes.

The Khatwari Dharamshala, located in Shikarpur’s Meena Bazaar, is one of the most imposing buildings. It is noted for its exceptional mural paintings. The main hall of this Dharamshala or Darbar houses the Guru Granth Sahib alongside an image of Baba Sri Chand, the eldest son of Baba Guru Nanak and the founder of the Udasi Panth. The walls of the hall are adorned with mural paintings that vividly illustrate scenes from Hindu scriptures and portray Sikh gurus and saints. Ten Sikh gurus are depicted on one wall of the Khatwari Dharamshala. Another wall features the Cheer Haran scene, or the disrobing of Draupadi, along with Krishna’s provision of an unending garment. Apart from the depiction of Draupadi’s disrobing, several other themes are painted on the walls of the Khatwari Dharamshala.

The Swami Shankaranand Bharti temple, located near Sindh Wah, also contains paintings. The domed structure over the samadhis of Swami Shankar Anand Bharti and his spiritual master (guru), Swami Adhbhanand Bharti, is primarily adorned with floral paintings.

These Hindu temples and darbars were mostly constructed during the 17th, 18th, 19th, and 20th Centuries. However, none of the temples, marhis, darbars, ashrams or dharamshalas from the 17th Century have survived in the original form. Most of these structures have been rebuilt or renovated over time. Most of the painted temples were constructed in the 19th and 20th Centuries.

The writer is an anthropologist. He has authored 16 books on Pakistan’s cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar and may be contacted at zulfi04@hotmail.com