mini-truck-like vehicle parked in the Pearl Continental Hotel’s lot has been attracting the attention of passersby. The vehicle is far from being just a mode of transportation in a typical Pakistani setting. Upon closer examination, it turns out to be the home of a German couple, Rudolf Seifert and his wife Marianne, who are in their 80s.

For the past two months, the Seiferts have been travelling across the world in their custom-made Mercedes-Benz truck. Currently, they are in Lahore. They have chosen to stay in the truck they’ve made their home.

“The hotel offered us a complimentary stay, but we gently turned it down,” Rudolf says.

“We’ve never stayed at a hotel during our world tour. This is our style—simplicity and freedom. Yes, we ate breakfast and meals at the hotel, but we prefer to cook our own food with local vegetables or eat at roadside dhabas and restaurants.”

Their stay in Lahore is part of their second world tour. This is also the second time they have been in Pakistan. Their last visit was 36 years ago.

The current tour began two months ago in Germany. Since then, they have travelled through the Czech Republic, Austria, Serbia, Turkey and Iran before entering Pakistan via the Taftan border. So far, they have been to Quetta, Sukkur and Multan before arriving in Lahore.

Since they parked at the hotel on the night of October 8, scores of people have stopped by to look at their vehicle.

Their truck is a custom-made, off-road Mercedes-Benz.

“This is more than just a home on wheels,” says Rudolf.

“It is equipped with solar panels for electricity, a water purification system, a bed, a washroom and cooking facilities. We do not need hotels or external services. We have everything in our home—water, electricity; even a compressor for diving.”

Marianne adds, “We usually shop for local produce in roadside shops. When the weather allows, I cook outdoors. It’s part of the adventure.”

How about your journey to Pakistan?

“Lots of challenges,” says Rudolf.

“Due to security concerns, we were escorted by the police from the Taftan border all the way to Lahore. We are grateful for the security, but we are world travellers and love being free.”

Marianne says that in Balochistan, they wanted to see the sand dunes and meet the locals, but they were restricted to the highway. “It was disappointing.”

According to them, their time in Quetta, in particular, was quite restrictive.

“At times, it felt like being in prison,” Rudolf says.

“We were not allowed to move freely. Even at the petrol station, the police followed us. It was frustrating.”

Despite these constraints, they say that wherever they met local civilians, they found them polite, generous and hospitable.

“The people here have been very kind and welcoming. We appreciate that a lot,” says Marianne.

The couple has fond memories of their previous visit to Pakistan in 1988.

“At that time, we travelled freely across Peshawar, Gilgit and Skardu. Pakistan was very different back then,” Rudolf says.

“We could go anywhere without restrictions. The northern territories were open to us. This time, we feel like we are missing out on the real Pakistan.”

We love meeting people and learning about how they live. Every place has its own culture, and we try to experience it as much as possible. – Rudolf.

Despite the challenges, the Seiferts managed to get a taste of independent travel during their current visit. On the night of October 8, their police escort allowed them to proceed without supervision. The couple then decided to leave the motorway and parked their vehicle near Sharqpur as the sun set. However, their peace didn’t last long.

“We were asleep when a group of people gathered around our truck and banged on it. Some children even threw stones at the vehicle, leaving a few scratches,” Rudolf says. Fortunately, someone alerted the police, who arrived to disperse the crowd before things got out of hand.

The next morning, the police ‘guided’ them to Lahore and they parked their truck at the PC Hotel. They were unaware of a recent incident involving a foreign cyclist being mugged while camping near the city. They say they would have loved to camp on the outskirts of Lahore had the situation been different.

“We prefer staying in rural areas, close to nature. Cities do not attract us much,” says Marianne.

The couple’s vehicle has been custom-built to handle rugged terrains and pothole-infested roads. “It is not fast, but it has great traction. We can cross rivers as deep as one and a half metres,” Rudolf says. So far, the vehicle has proven its reliability throughout their journey through deserts, mountains and forests.

For the Seiferts, their journey is about much more than sightseeing. “We love meeting people and learning about how they live. Every place has its own culture. We try to experience it as much as possible,” says Rudolf.

The couple share stories of their previous travels, including a visit to Rajasthan, India. “We needed special permission to visit tribes near the Pakistan border, but it was worth it. We met people dressed in traditional clothes, and it was an unforgettable experience,” Rudolf says.

What about Pakistani roads?

“The traffic here is dangerous,” Rudolf says.

“We need to concentrate. The roads are uneven, and keeping up with local traffic can be stressful.”

They speak about incidents where their security escort sped ahead.

“I’m slow and they zigzagged ahead, so I lost them. Then, we came to a tunnel (underpasses) with metal beams that weren’t high enough. I was nervous, but fortunately, there was no major damage to the truck,” Rudolf says.

“But I was scared.”

Asked how long they usually drive in a day, Rudolf says, “Normally, without a police escort, we wouldn’t drive more than 250 to 300 kilometres in a day. We like to stop and rest, especially if we find a nice place in nature.”

They have been in Pakistan for two weeks. They say their journey across Balochistan took longer due to constant police stops and security measures. “One day, we travelled from Taftan to Quetta, about 17 hours in total, all with the police. It was tiring,” Rudolf sasy.

“We felt like we were stuck in a loop—up early at 6am and on the road until after midnight.”

The couple also talk about their future plans. After their time in Pakistan, they intend to travel to India before shipping their truck to Malaysia. “I am a sports diver, and Malaysia has some beautiful coral reefs that I want to explore,” Rudolf says.

“We have everything we need in the truck, even a compressor and diving equipment.”

Despite the heat in Pakistan and the heavy traffic in Lahore, they remain optimistic. “Every place has its ups and downs. That’s what makes travel exciting. You learn something new every day,” says Marianne with a smile. They plan to stay in Lahore for a few more days while their visas for India are finalised. They also plan to visit the city markets to install air conditioning in the truck.

“It’s much hotter here than we expected. In Germany, it’s cold these days. We didn’t think about air conditioning when we built the truck,” Rudolf says.

“We are old. For us, the heat in Lahore is unbearable. We want to spend the rest of our lives on the road, so a good air-conditioning system would be a nice comfort.”

The writer is a media veteran interested in politics, consumer rights and entrepreneurship