Instep: Fashion shows seems to be a thing of the past as fashion weeks have taken their place. Do you think that’s accurate?

Deepak Perwani: Fashion shows are definitely not a thing of the past. Fashion weeks, on the other hand, have become outdated.

How did you plan to celebrate your 30 years as
a fashion designer? Was it about showcasing your current capabilities?

Deepak Perwani: For our 30-year celebration, we didn’t have a fashion show. Instead, we planned a series of events to mark the occasion. The new flagship store launch, located at Shahbaz Commercial, phase six, DHA, is just the beginning. Next, we’ll launch a perfume, followed by a solo fashion show.

As for the second part of your question, it’s a bit strange. We’re a three-decade-old brand, still leading in men’s wear and edgy women’s wear, and we’re consistently sold out, but we hadn’t expanded our business until now. After COVID, we focused on online sales. Now, with that platform established and our 30th anniversary here, we needed a new store because our old flagship store in Zamzama wasn’t convenient due to parking issues.

Instep: Bridal wear has long been a significant part of the fashion scene, both on the catwalk and in collections from major designers. Why do we churn out our bridal wear as our version of couture? We can’t wear it anywhere except wedding functions.

Deepak Perwani: To understand couture, one must understand the customer who buys it. Couture pieces are entirely handmade, down to the stitching. To term ‘couture’ which is regulated—you need to be affiliated with the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris to use it.

In Southeast Asia, especially in Pakistan, bridal wear has replaced couture because that’s what the market demands. When people write about fashion shows or fashion weeks, they often misuse these terms. A fashion week must last at least four days. We don’t have balls or galas like the West; our social outings revolve around restaurants and weddings. So bridal wear has naturally taken the place of couture for designers in Pakistan.

Instep: When you started, the fashion business was completely different. You were the to go to designer for party wear. The industry has drastically changed since then. There’s so much clothing out there, but does it have meaning? What do you think—is the answer binary, or is it more complicated?

Deepak Perwani: When I started three decades ago, it was a different time. As times changed, the market evolved, and so did we. We no longer make party wear—our version of it is luxury pret at best. For the past 20 years, we’ve focused solely on bridal wear for men and women. As markets evolve, so do designers, philosophies, and trends. You have to adapt to the times. For instance, this year has been particularly hot, and while I’m used to working with pure silks and fabrics, we’ve decided to launch a ready-to-wear, cotton-based line next year because of the environment. People in Karachi can’t wear heavy fabrics during the hot months, so you adapt to market demands, environmental changes, and customer needs—that’s what all brands do.

Instep: Looking back, do you feel you are among the designers who shaped fashion in Pakistan?

Deepak Perwani: I don’t need to say I shaped fashion. I am fashion. When I had started, there was nothing. My collections have since been shown in Milan, Paris, New York, and London. I’ve been recognized by ambassadors and dignitaries and have received standing ovations and awards at international fashion weeks.

I’ve won accolades like ‘Best International Designer’ at Miami Fashion Week, Colombo Fashion Week, and Malaysian Fashion Week. Without Deepak Perwani, half of Pakistani fashion would be missing. Many brands have drawn inspiration from my work, and some have even apologized for copying my designs—which I find amusing. The real question is whether anyone can keep up with a designer who is constantly innovating.

Instep: Evolution is crucial in fashion, or it becomes obsolete. There was a time when fashion was about ready-to-wear and imagination. Then, the lawn movement arrived, and suddenly every designer was releasing lawn collections. While this has mass appeal, it seems to have diluted the quality. Do you think this shift is driven by capitalism, or is it a natural market evolution?

Deepak Perwani: Yes, there was a time when every designer was releasing lawn collections. But, as I said, fashion must evolve. The market demands lawn and lighter fabrics. If designers focused only on bridal wear or formal wear, they wouldn’t have a broad customer base. Designers need to cater to a wider market. Each brand has its own way of moving forward. For instance, Sana Safinaz now have over a hundred stores, which would not have been possible if they only made bridal wear. Brands like Khaadi, Gul Ahmed, and Alkaram, which started as export companies, have also expanded into retail. With the advent of malls and fashion councils, fashion has become more accessible. Every segment of the market now demands fashion, from brands like H&M to luxury designers. It’s not just capitalism—it’s fashion awareness and progress. Today, we have fantastic ready-to-wear brands like Lama doing really well, and there are young brands like NiaMia making a name for themselves. Everyone has benefited from fast fashion. Tailors who are good at their craft can now open their own stores or work in factories. It has also created millions of jobs.

Instep: Technology plays an integral role in fashion today. Designers can find inspiration online, and social media has changed the industry significantly. How do you view this shift?

Deepak Perwani: Back in university, I believed it was fashion journalists’ responsibility to highlight issues like nepotism, copying, and originality. However, with the rise of fashion councils and weeks, this responsibility shifted to designers. Today, designers can easily be copied on platforms like Pinterest and Instagram, but I believe designers who are true to their own original style will always stand out. The copycats fade away eventually. Retail brands have always been copying high-end designs, so it’s not new to them.

Instep: How do you handle online trolling, which has become common, even for designers?

Deepak Perwani: You can’t really fight trolling. The best way to handle it is to ignore it. I used to get upset when people copied my designs, but now I just laugh and take it as a compliment.

Instep: What key lessons have you learned in your 30 years as a fashion designer that you would share with newcomers, especially in this economy?

Deepak Perwani: The lessons have been simple: work hard, develop your own style, stay focused, and follow your dream. The rest is all a facade. Once the party is over, no one is there for you except yourself, your family, and your friends. In this slowing economy, I advise young designers to focus more on online sales, do capsule collections, and keep the pricing low. Build your brand first.

Instep: Independent designers have found success through social media and opened their own outlets. How do you see this trend evolving? Will it last?

Deepak Perwani: As the market shifts and social media becomes more prevalent, everyone finds their own niche. Some designers focus on online sales, other on a mix of online and retail. Some start online before opening physical stores—it depends on their strategy. I have noticed many designers prefer street-level shops instead of malls. Malls require constant sales, discounts, and adherence to their practices. High-end brands, especially in Pakistan, feel this dilutes their image. Each brand has its own way of operating.

Instep: Do you follow international trends?

Deepak Perwani: As a designer catering to both international and local clients, we follow trends in color, cut, and styles, especially for our luxury pret collections. We do exhibitions in Dubai, so understanding international taste is essential, as fusion wear is worn more compared to Eastern wear abroad.

Instep: With your experience in the fashion industry, what do you feel the market lacks?

Deepak Perwani: The market lacks education and responsibility for ethical fashion, as well as collaboration with NGOs. There’s also a significant underinvestment in textiles and the preservation of old crafts. Bangladesh is a great example of a country that revived its handloom, block printing, and sari-making traditions. Similarly, Jaipur has maintained a strong cultural identity. In Pakistan, this cultural thread is missing. Many people still equate culture only with Ajrak, Khes, or Sindhi Bhabha embroidery, without understanding the deeper cultural heritage. Reviving traditions like Tankar embroidery, dyeing techniques, and block printing is essential to move the industry forward. It not only creates new markets but also educates people about their roots and how these traditions can be woven into global fashion.

Instep: What do awards mean to you, both local and international? Do you see a difference between the two?

Deepak Perwani: Awards are always gratifying, especially when you have received a lot of them. They offer validation and recognition for hard work, which is always inspiring, not just for the recipient but for the entire community.

Instep: Over the last 30 years, we’ve seen many changes in the fashion industry. One significant shift is that celebrities have launched their own brands. How has this affected the industry?

Deepak Perwani: Celebrities have always sought to capitalize on their celebrity status. Many have launched their own brands, achieving varying degrees of success. J. (Junaid Jamshed) is a notable example of a successful celebrity brand. Internationally, Victoria Beckham has done exceptionally well, while others, like Paris Hilton and Sarah Jessica Parker, haven’t been as fortunate. The key difference lies in hard work and innovation; simply having a famous name isn’t enough. Dedication and vision are essential to building a lasting brand.

Instep: Fashion weeks have replaced solo fashion shows, and we’re seeing a lot of repetition in collections and ideas. Do you think this stifles creativity, or is it a natural progression?

Deepak Perwani: Fashion weeks essentially faded away pre-COVID, and the councils disbanded. When they were active, there was more innovation in fashion, which benefited retail. Now, the lack of structured showcases has resulted in more repetition and less emphasis on creativity. In Dubai for example, many Pakistani stalls showcase similar designs, focusing on what sells rather than pushing creative boundaries.

Instep: Do you think having multiple fashion weeks creates division in the industry? Should there be just one?

Deepak Perwani: It’s an interesting question. Ideally, a unified fashion week would be great, but having multiple fashion weeks isn’t necessarily bad. In Milan and New York, smaller fashion weeks exist alongside the main ones. India’s FDCI and Lakmé are prime examples of successful, well-regulated fashion weeks.

Governments in countries like India and Italy have separate ministries for fashion, demonstrating their understanding of its importance. In Pakistan, however, fashion tends to be neglected at the government level. The Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) organizing a fashion show for Textile Asia isn’t the ideal approach. Bridal fashion shows are primarily for television and audience reach, allowing designers to receive orders from viewers. We are still developing, so all these shows are neccessary. TDAP, bridal shows, FPW, PFDC, and Islamabad Fashion Week cater to various markets and preferences. Some prefer sleeveless styles, while others prefer full sleeves, and weather conditions differ across regions. In a country like Pakistan, with its challenges, we need progressive movements, regardless of their current purpose.

Instep: After 30 years in the industry, do you feel like you’ve achieved everything, or is there more you want to do?

Deepak Perwani: Anyone who believes they’ve done it all is being naive. There’s always more to learn, more to create. Fashion is like a blank canvas—I’ll never stop designing. I’m a creature of constant change. And to give up after 30 years? No, I think this is just the beginning. There are still so many possibilities and new avenues to explore.

Instep: Which decade has been the most challenging for you?

Deepak Perwani: Every decade has been important in its own way. The ‘70s and ‘80s were about self-discovery and youthful excitement. The 2000s focused on fashion weeks, malls, and retail expansion. The 2010s brought more international recognition and shows. However, the last decade felt a bit more diluted compared to earlier years, with fewer opportunities for people to wear fabulous clothes outside of intimate gatherings. But every period has its own challenges and opportunities.

Instep: Unlike other designers, you haven’t expanded your brand with multiple outlets. Why is that?

Deepak Perwani: High-end brands, especially those maintaining a certain price point, don’t necessarily need many outlets. Banto Kazmi is an excellent example—she’s never opened an outlet, yet remains highly successful. We needed a new store because we expanded into womenswear and required more space. Our previous store on Zamzama wasn’t large enough, and our bridal studio was in a different location, complicating operations. Consolidating everything into one new flagship store made sense for us.

Instep: Does fashion today lack trailblazing talent?

Deepak Perwani: Currently, everyone seems focused on retail sales. Fashion weeks used to be excellent for spotting new talent, but now that they’re gone, it’s harder to find trailblazers. Faraz Manan has succeeded in the Indian and international markets, and Rastah is making waves in a different niche. Beyond that, I don’t see much groundbreaking talent right now.

Instep: You’ve mentioned that Amrita Sher-Gil and Frida Kahlo inspire you. What is it about them that resonates with you?

Deepak Perwani: Strong women like Amrita Sher-Gil and Frida Kahlo have always inspired me, especially regarding fashion and identity. Both were incredible artists and fashion icons. Their works reflect immense personality and style. I’ve always been drawn to women who embody strength, much like my mother. A few years ago, we even expanded a collection inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe. These women shaped my understanding of how art, identity, and fashion intertwine.

Instep: Larger brands often struggle to build unique brand cultures, while designers like you have a more personal approach. Are you aiming to reshape your brand’s culture for a younger generation?

Deepak Perwani: Reinventing a brand isn’t as challenging as it seems. There’s a saying, “We are only as good as our last collections.”

Fashion is fluid, and designers constantly produce new collections every few months. Cultural identity is developed by brands that immerse themselves in cultural influences like Khaddar or block printing. As modernists, we incorporate these elements and give them a contemporary twist. Staying relevant requires constant innovation. For me, fashion is a passion; I can design a collection in 20 minutes. To revive or reinvent your brand, all it takes is one fabulous collection.

Instep: If your emotions mirror your collections, how do you design in a time when Pakistan is consistently facing turbulent times, and the world feels chaotic and heavy with fear?

Deepak Perwani: Often, the best art emerges from difficult times. Pakistan has faced struggles for 75 years, but despite everything, we must hold onto hope. Fashion can be a beacon of light in dark times, much like the beauty of a morning garden filled with flowers and butterflies. Even when things seem bleak, people want to look good, feel good, and believe that better and brighter days lie ahead, and fashion helps us cling to that hope. This too shall pass.

– Text has been edited for the
sake of brevity.

“Every decade has been important in its own way. The ‘70s and ‘80s were about self-discovery and youthful excitement. The 2000s focused on fashion weeks, malls, and retail expansion. The 2010s brought more international recognition and shows. However, the last decade felt a bit more diluted compared to earlier years, with fewer opportunities for people to wear fabulous clothes outside of intimate gatherings. But every period has its own challenges and opportunities.”

– Deepak Perwani on the importance of each decade in his career