The soul of the Punjab

October 13, 2024

Ancient shrines and vibrant bazaars of Multan tell the stories of spiritual and cultural heart of the land

The soul of the Punjab


M

ultan, in the heart of the Punjab, is a city rich in history and culture. With a population of about 5.36 million according to the 2023 census, it ranks as the seventh largest city in Pakistan. Known as the City of Saintly Shrines, Multan is vibrant and full of life.

Situated east of the Chenab River, is about 885 kilometres from Karachi by road. The city’s deep connection to its spiritual past is evident everywhere. Yet, it is also a modern city that manages to maintain a balance between tradition and progress.

Multan International Airport links the city to major destinations across Pakistan and abroad. The local economy thrives on various industries including metalworking, textile manufacturing and glass production. The city is also famous for its traditional crafts, especially pottery and enamel work, which many visitors purchase as a keepsake.

The soul of the Punjab

With its rich heritage, lively streets and a blend of the old and the new, Multan warmly invites everyone to explore its charm. Whether it’s the spiritual sites of the city or its stunning craftsmanship, Multan has an experience to remember for everyone.

Multan was once a walled city with six grand gates. Some remnants of the historic wall have survived to this day. The six gates were identified as Lohari Gate, Bohar Gate, Pak Gate, Delhi Gate, Haram Gate and Dolat Gate. Today, only three of these gates – Delhi, Bohar and Haram – are intact. The original wall and the gates, built in 1756, were heavily damaged during the British siege of Multan in 1849. The British later rebuilt the Delhi Gate. Some repairs were also carried out around the other gates.

One of the most significant landmarks in Multan is the tomb of Shah Rukn-i-Alam. Sheikh Rukn-ud-Din Abul Fath, widely known as Shah Rukn-i-Alam, was a renowned Sufi adept and the grandson of equally famous Bahauddin Zakariya. The tomb marks his final resting place. Built in the Fourteenth Century, the mausoleum, with its striking dome and minarets adorned in blue and white tiles, is a stunning example of the Multani architecture. The interior is equally captivating. It has beautiful murals and Quranic inscriptions on the walls.

The soul of the Punjab

During a visit, I saw several women accompanied by their children. Some of them gently pressed their heads against the shrine’s wall. I also came across an old water well. In was told that in the past, visitors used to toss coins into the well as an offering of gratitude, believing that their prayers had been answered by visiting this revered shrine.

Bahauddin Zakariya, also known as Bahawal Haq, was an influential Sufi mentor whose tomb is a site sacred to many. Located near the historic Old Fort, the tomb dates back to the 13th Century. It is a remarkable example of early Multani architecture. Its design features include an octagonal drum, a square base and a dome adorned with glazed tiles. It has the distinctive style of the period. The tomb’s grandeur is further enhanced by its courtyard, arched gates and the water tank surrounding it.

The soul of the Punjab


With its rich heritage, lively streets and a blend of old and new, Multan warmly invites everyone to explore its charm. 

In the heart of Multan lies the tomb of another revered Sufi, Shah Shams Sabzwari. A Persian mystic, Shah Shams Sabzwari gained prominence after moving to Multan. His 12th Century mausoleum is a notable example of Multani architecture, with its striking octagonal shape, towering dome and intricate tile work. The tomb is beautifully adorned with calligraphy and geometric patterns. Its architectural elegance and spiritual significance make it a must-see for pilgrims as well as tourists.

I also happened to visit Damdama, which offers stunning panoramic views of the city. Its location, close to Ghanta Ghar chowk, the tomb of Hazrat Bahauddin Zakariya and the tomb of Hazrat Shah Shams, makes it an ideal place for sightseeing. From this elevated vantage point, visitors can appreciate the city’s layout and the beautiful surrounding landscapes.

Nigar Khana, a captivating tourist destination in Multan, promotes distinguished and rare crafts of extraordinary creativity and artistry. Often referred to as the House of Art, the venue is opposite the tomb of Hazrat Shah Rukn-i-Alam. Over 45 years of its existence, Nigar Khana has become renowned for its collection of handicrafts, antiques and other artistic treasures.

The soul of the Punjab

As one descends the winding stairs into this enchanting space, one is greeted by a vibrant world of mosaics, glass and wood craft, blue ceramics, camel-bone jewellery, table lamps, flasks, plaster-of-Paris decorations, and much more.

The shrine of Shah Yusuf Gardezi, too, is a significant historical and religious site. The revered Sufi is remembered for his teachings and his role in spreading Islam in the region. The shrine draws large numbers of pilgrims and visitors who come to pay their respects and seek blessings.

The shrine is adorned with intricate tile work carrying traditional patterns. The peaceful atmosphere of the shrine provides a serene space for reflection.

Hussain Agahi is a bustling bazaar offering a wide variety of shops that stretch from the main road deep into the heart of the walled city. Here, you can find retailers selling everything from electronics, fabrics and tableware to crafts, sports goods, groceries and more.

The soul of the Punjab

The bazaar is conveniently located near the historic Masjid Ali Muhammad, also known as Masjid Wali Muhammad, situated at Chowk Bazaar. This mosque, built in 1757 by Ali Muhammad Khan, the then-governor of Multan, has a rich history. Inside, there are Persian inscriptions and artwork on its walls and entrance. The mosque has survived vandalism both during the Sikh era and the British East India Company’s rule over the subcontinent. Scattered within the bazaar are old temples, adding to the historical and cultural depth of the area.

During a visit to the Chenab River bank, I saw many families preparing to go boating. The boatman said that the flow near the electric pole was too turbulent to be safe. Nearby, a few people were patiently waiting for the sun to set, ready to try their luck at fishing in the river.


The writer is a staff member

The soul of the Punjab