t is often hard to forget the people who offer help in our times of need. A few pearls of wisdom from a sage may calm our agitated hearts, while some sips of a perfectly brewed, piping-hot cup of tea may chase our sorrows away.

For those who believe that tea is an elixir of life, the latter statement holds as much weight as the former. Even on a hot summer afternoon, when everyone else reaches for lemonades or other refreshing drinks, tea enthusiasts sit in a café or at a tea stall, sipping their tea.

This marvellous drink distils life into the mind of the one drinking it, forever enlightening the heart.

Tea, for many, is more than just a beverage – it symbolises warmth, companionship during stressful times and a shared moment of connection. In Lahore, a city steeped in history and rich culture, the tradition of chai runs deep. When one thinks of Lahore, one imagines a city brimming with life, its vibrant people, diversity and historical landmarks.

The Mall is one of the first few places that often comes to mind when one thinks of Lahore. Amidst the din of metropolitan traffic, across from the service road where the Sunday book bazaar is held, stands Pak Tea House: a once magnificent, white-plastered building often referred to as a haven for thinkers and writers. Established in 1948, it was highly regarded as an iconic symbol of intellectual discourse.

Once home to some of the greatest intellectuals of the subcontinent, such as Faiz Ahmed Faiz, Saadat Hassan Manto and Munshi Premchand, this chai khana remained closed for 13 years until it was restored to life on March 8, 2013, on the orders of then prime minister Nawaz Sharif.

Much to the readers’ chagrin and particularly to the disappointment of tea lovers, the place no longer lives up to its name. Although its special cardamom tea still tastes pleasant, it lacks the robust flavour relished in the traditionally brewed versions.

Despite this, the venue is still frequented by students, academics and senior citizens. It continues to evoke memories of bygone days when books were valued, libraries were considered treasure troves and readers were held in high esteem. The walls still whisper tales of heated debates, poetic musings and ideas that shaped the intellectual fabric of Pakistan.

A short walk away from this historic tea house, nestled in the hustle and bustle of the city’s modern-day tempo, lie other tea stalls that still carry the essence of Lahore’s chai culture.

Not far from Pak Tea House, one such establishment stands out for its aromatic chai: it is the Gull Khan Tea Stall. If you’re fortunate enough to have time to stroll near Istanbul Chowk and extend your walk to the National College of Arts gallery, take a right turn at the end of the gallery, and you will soon reach the stall.

In every cup of chai, there is a story, a connection and a moment of stillness amidst the chaos. And in that moment, we are reminded of the simple, yet profound, joys of life.

It’s a small shop with makeshift tables and chairs set out in front of its jutted-out stove. In the sweltering heat or during a downpour, those who like to sit outside to enjoy the atmosphere of Anarkali are protected only by a canopy.

While the indoor seating is a bit cramped, it offers a haven for customers who prefer solitude. Couples can sit separately in its cosy, attic-shaped seating area, creating a blend of privacy and community that is unique to Lahore’s tea spots.

One of the reasons I like GKTS is Shah Zameen. He is the ultimate ronaq of this chai khana. With a wheatish complexion, a broad forehead and slicked-back hair, he sports a light beard and wears a loose shalwar kamees. Sometimes, he serves as a bearer, offering chai to the diverse crowd of tea lovers; at other times, he assumes the role of a stoic tea maker.

You can easily spot him in the pictures – the one in the light sky-blue kurta is Shah Zameen. His presence is integral to the atmosphere. His friendly banter and calm demeanour have made him a favourite amongst regulars. There’s something comforting about the way he moves between roles, a reminder that in the simplest of actions – pouring tea, wiping down a table – there exists a quiet dignity that can often get overlooked.

With a somewhat heavy heart, I must admit that the tea served at this nearly two-decade-old stall is far superior to that offered at Pak Tea House, which has been around for more than seven decades.

The quality of the tea may have diminished over time, but the memory and spirit of Pak Tea House as a place of intellectual gathering persist. The chief minister, whose father holds fond memories of this place, should take note of the dismal state of affairs. A stroke of her pen could help revitalise the soul of this chai khana, restoring it to its former glory as not only a physical space but also as a sanctuary for ideas and discussion.

In a city as alive and varied as Lahore, tea is more than just a drink – it is a cultural anchor, a symbol of continuity in a fast-changing world. From the stately Pak Tea House to the humble Gull Khan Tea Stall, these spaces remind us that while time goes on, some traditions retain their place. In every cup of chai, there is a story, a connection and a moment of stillness amidst the chaos. In that moment, we are reminded of the simple, yet profound, joys of life.

The writer is an MPhil scholar