wais, a student of social sciences at Government College University, Lahore, is unsure if he will ever get to wear the trendy T-shirts he purchased during his summer vacation in Dubai. Like many other students, he is not happy with GCU’s recently issued dress code which bars students from wearing tees and jeans on campus.

“I think the guards won’t let me in if I show up in my favourite dress,” he says.

The August 20 dress code notification, signed by Dr Shazia Bashir, the vice chancellor, has stirred considerable debate, drawing mixed reactions from students, alumni and the general public. The notice say the students are required to “dress decently, reflecting the values of the University.” For male students, this means dress shirts and trousers paired with shoes. Female students, on the other hand, are expected to wear “modest clothing along with a dupatta.” The notice warns that any student not adhering to the dress code may be checked by the proctors and fined.

The dress code, described by some as discriminatory for ‘targeting’ female students with the ‘modesty’ requirement has sparked discussions in a society where clothing is linked to expression of personal identity and cultural values. Some people have said the policy is a necessary step towards maintaining discipline and upholding cultural values. Others are calling it essentially restrictive and a denial of freedom of expression.

Muhammad Saleem, a library employee at the Punjab University whose daughter is computer sciences student at the GCU, supports the decision. “I appreciate the move. Being an Islamic country, we should uphold our religious values in dress on campuses,” he says. “The enforcement of dupatta will bring about a positive change.”

On the other end of the spectrum are people like Fateh Sher Rajput, an alumnus. In a Facebook post on a group exclusively meant for Old Ravians, Rajput wrote, “GCU Lahore has accumulated over 150 years of heritage and traditions. And what did it do in the end? Issued a stupid, male-egoistic and medieval DRESS CODE notification. Do not despair, ladies and gentlemen, for this is a time of stupidity and sycophancy. Why should GCU be an exception? Not proud to be a Ravian.”

The post received a barrage of comments, showing the divide among the alumni. Khawer Javed, another Old Ravian, commented, “This is not new — a dress code was implemented during the tenure of Dr Khalid Aftab, which is known as the golden era of the GCU. A stricter dress code was not only implemented but also observed. In my humble opinion, if the university wants to preserve its so-called traditions, more steps should be taken. Otherwise, there is a plethora of TikTok universities and their students.”

Some other participants were in favour of ‘balancing’ tradition and modernity; and cultural values and personal freedoms. Dr Asir Ajmal wrote, “The first thing the university should do is focus on the training of teachers and updating curricula.

“Steps like dress codes and discipline are unnecessary at this moment. We need trained and professional teachers as well as a modern, updated syllabus. People should remember the incident at Islamia University, Bahawalpur, where despite strict security and surveillance cameras, serious violations occurred. Disciplinary action such as a dress code is not the need of the hour. Instead, we should focus on students’ studies and better teachers.”

“Any policy, including a dress code, should have well-defined goals, which should be clearly communicated to the students and rationalised. This helps them understand why the policy is being implemented and what it aims to achieve,” says Prof Dr Rubeena Zakir 

Dr Ajmal’s concerns reflect an issue within the academic community. Many believe that the imposition of dress codes is a superficial measure that distracts from the more pressing educational needs. Hadia Amjad, a representative of Aurat March Lahore, has been particularly vocal about the discriminatory nature of the dress code. “The dress code is discriminatory,” she says. “It sets different standards that centre modesty for women but not for men. Men are allowed to wear dress shirts and pants, while women must wear a dupatta. More worrying is the licence given to proctors to monitor and penalise students for dress code violations. Once again, we are inviting strangers to scrutinise and police women’s clothing and personal choices.”

The requirement for women to wear a dupatta has sparked a debate about the role of modesty in dress codes. Prof Dr Rubeena Zakir, director of the Institute of Social and Cultural Studies at the Punjab University, offers another perspective. She acknowledges the potential benefits of a dress code but adds that clear objectives are important for all university policies.

“We need to understand the objectives behind such a policy,” she adds. “Any policy, including a dress code, should have well-defined goals, which should be clearly communicated to the students and rationalised. This helps them understand why the policy is being implemented and what it aims to achieve.”

According to her, a dress code can promote a sense of professionalism among students. “When everyone follows a dress code, it creates a uniform appearance, which can strengthen a sense of equality and professionalism… The dress code can help maintain a focused academic environment where students are less concerned with their appearance and more focused on their studies.”

However, she also warns against the dangers of such policies when they encroach on personal expression: “One concern is that it may limit students’ ability to express their individuality through their clothing. In a setting where everyone is required to wear the same outfit, the opportunity for personal expression is reduced. This can be seen by some as a disadvantage.”

She is also opposed to an emphasis on modesty, specifically with regard to female students, arguing that it reveals a discriminatory mindset and a gender bias. According to her, a dress code should not be linked to gender. Modesty, she says, is a value that applies to everyone. “If the GCU is committed to enforcing a dress code, it should consider introducing a uniform with a strict policy equally applicable to all students,” she says.

Ahsan Malik is a media veteran interested in politics, consumer rights and entrepreneurship