n September 12, 2019, I had the opportunity to explore the ancient Neolithic megalithic monuments in Carnac, located in the beautiful region of Brittany, France. As I stood before the imposing rows of menhirs, I was immediately captivated by the sheer magnitude of the Carnac Stones. The sight of these mysterious and majestic structures exceeded all my expectations. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and wonder at standing in the presence of such ancient history. Before this visit, I had extensively studied the megalithic monuments of France, but nothing could have prepared me for the overwhelming experience of witnessing the remarkable Carnac alignments firsthand.

It all began when I received an invitation to present a paper on the Megaliths of Sindh, Pakistan, in 2019. Luc Laporte and Jean-Marc Large, faculty members at the Centre de Recherche en Archéologie, Archéosciences, Histoire, Université de Rennes 1, France, had invited me to present my research on the Megaliths of Sindh, Pakistan, at the prestigious International Meeting: Megaliths of the World. This event, held on September 9-14, 2019, at the Historial de la Vendée in Les Lucs-sur-Boulogne, France, provided a significant platform for me to share my work and interact with esteemed scholars in megalithic studies. I stayed at Hotel Campanile in La Roche-sur-Yon, a town in the Vendée department of the Pays de la Loire region in western France.

The conference featured 72 oral presentations, including 51 conference sessions and 21 posters, presented by approximately 60 researchers from 25 nationalities across all continents. I represented Pakistan at the conference. The day after my presentation I departed for Brittany with two Italian colleagues and megalithic experts, Alberto Pozzi and Beatrice Auguadro. We left early in the morning, and it took three hours to reach Larmor-Baden. Along the way, we stopped for some coffee. Our first destination was the Gavrinis passage tomb near Larmor-Baden in the Gulf of Morbihan, an area rich in megalithic monuments located on its banks and islands.

Gavrinis is Brittany’s most impressive Neolithic cairn, tumulus, or passage tomb, offering a unique experience with its incredibly carved stones. Later, we visited Locmariaquer and other megaliths in Brittany, though we spent most of our time at the Carnac alignments.

Travelling with Alberto Pozzi and Beatrice Auguadro was a valuable learning experience. Visiting the megaliths of Brittany was particularly beneficial for my research on megaliths in Pakistan. I have discussed some of these monuments in my book Ancient Karachi: Reflections on Rock Art and Megaliths, recently published by Dr NA Baloch Institute of Heritage Research at Jamshoro, Sindh. I have written about the megaliths of Brittany and Vendée in my upcoming book, Megalithic Sindh, comparing them to the megalithic art in Sindh.

Throughout our journey, Alberto Pozzi provided insights into the theories, folklore and societal reverence for the Carnac stones and other megalithic monuments in BrittanyHe is a prolific author who has extensively contributed to the study of megaliths, covering Europe and other continents.

In northwest France, the scenic region of Brittany is renowned for its abundance of ancient megalithic monuments. Among these treasures, the Carnac alignments stand out, featuring four remarkable sites: Menec, Kermario, Karlescan and Little Menec. These alignments are characterised by numerous standing stones arranged in distinct patterns, showcasing intricate ancient craftsmanship and captivating prehistoric significance. Visitors can explore the rich history and archaeological insights of the Carnac alignments through site maps, books and articles that provide valuable information about the placement and Neolithic context of these intriguing megalithic structures.

Books and articles on the Carnac stones also delve into the folklore surrounding them, revealing the pride that some communities once took in these monuments. The megalithic structures, such as the Carnac stones, have long served as significant emblems of pride and cultural identity for the communities of Brittany. These ancient monuments have not only captivated scholars but have also garnered notable attention within the postcard industry, exemplifying their widespread appeal and intrigue. Jean-Pierre Mohen, author of Standing Stone: Stonehenge, Carnac, and the World of Megaliths (1999:49), notes that more than 1,200 postcards depicting megalithic monuments from Brittany alone were produced between 1900 and 1926. He also suggests that this trend spread from Brittany to other parts of Europe. These postcards are especially appealing because they depict monuments in their natural surroundings, often featuring individuals in traditional attire.

Alberto Pozzi writes in his book Megalithism: Sacred and Pagan Architecture in Prehistory (2013) that the most impressive and well-known group of stone rows at Carnac is the Menec alignments. This site features 12 straight rows of menhirs that curve slightly at one point. The Menec alignments stretch over a length of about 1,150 metres and a width of 100 metres, comprising 1,169 monoliths. Nearby is the second alignment, known as Kermario, which consists of 10 rows of 1,029 menhirs and spans a distance of 1,120 metres. The third alignment at Carnac, called Karlescan, is 880 metres long and consists of 13 rows of stones.

Dolmens are also found at Carnac. A dolmen with an antechamber is located at the southern border of the Kermario alignments’ starting point. The site map also indicates the location of the Kermario Dolmen.

Apart from the Carnac alignments, Brittany is home to several other stone rows or alignments. The Carnac alignments, with their enigmatic charm, have long been a source of fascination. The legends surrounding these ancient stones, collected in the early 20th Century by the renowned archaeologist Zacharie Le Rouzic, add an additional layer of mystery to their significance. Some of the monoliths are described as living beings. Others are said to guard a hidden treasure beneath their bases. It is believed that revealing this treasure would bring about a fatal consequence.

The writer is an anthropologist. He has authored 16 books on Pakistan’s cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar