Venturing to the edge

July 28, 2024

An expedition through Swat Valley’s Mankiyal Meadows

Venturing to the edge


“W

here the earth kisses the sky,“ was what my friend Shams-ud Din said when I asked about his plans for the summer. While reading Shams’s message, I had no idea that an unforgettable adventure awaited us on the edge of the world. Shams lives in Mankiyal Valley, also known as the adventure capital of Swat.

Shams invited me to join him on a journey that could push our limits. Feeling bored and stuck in my routine, I accepted the offer. Our destination was Chukail Meadows.

At an altitude of 10,700 feet (3,261 metres), Chukail Meadows lies in the majestic Hindu Kush range. Among all the travel destinations in Swat, Mankiyal Valley stands out. It has stunning natural wonders like Chukail Meadows, Taip Meadows and Jaba Meadows. Markhor, bears and wolves are native to this valley.

Venturing to the edge

These are some of the reasons Mankiyal Valley is known as Swat’s adventure capital. Those visiting Swat must visit one of meadows in Mankiyal Valley. The approach to Chukail Meadows is tougher and more challenging than the other meadows in the region.

Finally, we embarked on a journey through the pristine beauty of Upper Swat. Travelling along the majestic Swat River, we navigated winding roads and rocks sculpted by natural dynamics over millions of years.

The road infrastructure, badly affected by the 2022 floods, has not been fully restored. Yet, thousands of visitors and tourists from across the country had flocked to Swat. Small villages lined the Swat River. The flood submerged many bridges along the way so that chairlifts were the only way at several points to cross the river. We encountered over a dozen chairlifts on our way to Mankiyal Valley.

Reached Mankiyal Valley at dusk, I was surpised by the cold winds from the north in the middle of July. A small river flowed swiftly from the mountains, disappearing into the Swat River.

Venturing to the edge

Shams’s home, perched on the brink of the Swat River, was reachable via a chairlift. Initially, I was reluctant to cross the river in a rickety chairlift. Once I had overcome my dread, it became an unforgettable experience. The chairlift moved slowly over the majestic river, delivering us to the other side, right in front of Shams’s home.

Shams’s family welcomed me with warm smiles and laughter. His home, nestled in a tranquil spot surrounded by lush greenery, looked stunning even without artificial lighting. We enjoyed a rainy night walk, had a peaceful dinner and eventually settled in for the night. The rumbling sound of the Swat River throughout the night confirmed that I was in a truly magical place.

The next day we woke up at dawn, had an early breakfast, geared up and were soon off the beaten path. We were a group of five. An eight-hour trek, an explorer’s dream, awaited us along the Mankiyal River. On the way up, we encountered lush green alpine valleys, bubbling creeks, cascading waterfalls, peaceful villages and a close-to-nature lifestyle.

Venturing to the edge

Crossing the wooden bridges over the river was the best experience. We were on a perilous track where courage found wings. Every step was a challenge. I was unfamiliar with such rugged expeditions, but being surrounded by adventure-loving people encouraged me.

The marvellous views and landscapes along the way were enough to ignore fatigue. After a three-hour hike, one of our companions took us to a relative’s home. We were served tea. The house was in a scenic village nestled in the high mountains.

The tea boosted our energy. Soon, we were back on the track, scaling new heights. The road was accessible only by 4x4 pick-up vehicles driven by expert drivers. Once the road ended, a three-hour climb led to the meadow. In the spirit of adventure, we walked the entire track. Despite the tough terrain, we met many visitors along the way.

Among all the travel destinations in Swat Valley, Mankiyal Valley stands out, offering stunning natural wonders like Chukail Meadows, Taip Meadows and Jaba Meadows. 

We encountered several alpine glaciers. Many snow-covered peaks also came into view. Despite feeling tired and weak, the spirit of adventure gave me strength. After five hours of hiking, we reached the point where the road ended and a perilous climbing trail began.

More tourists joined us in the climb. We scaled new heights together. The track was almost vertical, making every step a struggle. With each gain in altitude, our physical strength declined. Being native to the area, my companions were well adapted to the heights. I alone in the group found the heights challenging.

After more than an hour’s hike, we reached a virtual wall. At such altitudes, some people experience altitude sickness a traditional remedy for which is to eat onions.

I, too, chewed some pieces of the vegetable we were carrying. However, this had an adverse affected on my stomach. The body had stopped supporting me so that I almost gave up. My companions gave me some biscuits and some other visitors offered dates and chocolates to restore my energy.

Eventually, with their support and motivation, we made it to the meadows. However, my condition didn’t improve there. I felt a lack of oxygen and suffered from altitude sickness. I was unable to move an inch.

For about an hour, I lay on the grass, unaware of the beauty that surrounded us. My companions were worried about my health. After taking some medication and vomiting, however, my health began to recover.

Venturing to the edge

Finally, felling better, I looked around and found myself surrounded by a picturesque landscape. It was a pristine wilderness. We were enveloped by unfamiliar sounds, signs, and odours.

The meadows are a gem, untouched by human hands. Three meadows in a row with local houses and grazing cattle surrounded us. The meadows were lush green. There were blooming flowers and tents set up by tourists.

We were among snow-covered peaks, alpine glaciers and icy rivers. The lush greenery of the meadows stretched as far as the eye could see. We cooked our food in the wilderness. There were no mobile phone signals in the meadows and no electricity.

We hadn’t planned to spend the night there. The original plan was to visit the place and return to the Mankiyal Valley the same day. We were therefore not carrying tents or blankets. However, we realised that it was too late for the descent to be safe. It was already dusk as we finished eating.

Unaware of the enormity of the cold challenge, we decided to stay the night without a tent. This set the stage for another unforgettable adventure. The cold winds swept in at dusk while we roamed the meadows to unwind. The wooden huts of the local people added to scenic beauty.

As temperature began to drop, we gathered wood from across the meadow to light up a bonfire. We sat around it under the sky. There was just us, the bonfire and the moon. The experience was surreal.

Venturing to the edge

Dining in the moonlight in such a peaceful setting was beyond my imagination. However, the cold winds reminded us to brace for the chilly challenge of the night. The atmosphere was enlivened by my companions sharing folk tales and singing Torwali ghazals.

The enjoyment lasted into the middle of the night. However, the temperature then dropped further and we decided to seek shelter in a local mosque. The mosque was a single room with no carpeting, just grass on the floor.

Throughout the night, we tried unsuccessfully to warm ourselves. Our efforts to stay warm kept us awake. We share some more folk tales and decided that the freezing cold was an adventure that will remain etched in our memories forever. Miraculously, it did not rain.

The next morning was warm and tranquil. We returned to the valley. Along the way, we encountered dozens of tourists eager to explore the meadows. I will forever be grateful to Shams for this unforgettable experience.


The writer is a student. He may be reached at ubaidsa9@gmail.com

Venturing to the edge