fzal Khan is the maestro behind a golaganda stall that has become synonymous with delectable frozen delights in a bustling locality. Here, the air is filled with the sweet allure of shaved or crushed ice, topped with a kaleidoscope of syrups and condensed milk, and sold in a cup or on a stick like a lolly, offering respite from sweltering heat.

This area of the city, renowned for its golaganda stalls that line both sides of the road, is a haven for those with a penchant for this frozen indulgence. Among the array of vendors, Khan stands out, having perfected the art of creating delicious rainbow-hued golaganda for the past decade. His creations, though priced a notch higher than those peddled by itinerant pushcart vendors who roam the streets of the city, have earned a reputation for their tantalising flavours and artistic presentation.

As Khan cheerfully says, his work day begins at 11:30 am, extending into the wee hours of the morning until 1:30 am…a fourteen-hour labour of love dedicated to supporting his family that includes his wife and two children. During the month of Ramazan, the stall remains closed during the day. However, it stays open through the night, catering to nocturnal cravings until the fajr prayers.

Transforming ice into a delectable golaganda can be hard work, particularly shaving the ice by hand, but the stall has an ice-crushing machine that performs the task with lightning speed. The crushed ice is accurately moulded, compacted, and transformed into a lolly that serves as a canvas for toppings dictated by the customer’s budget.

Syrups infused with flavours and smells play a pivotal role. Raspberry-red, banana-green, pineapple-yellow and the citrus burst of orange – each lick or mouthful is an explosion of taste and aroma, giving the sense of actual fruit. Prices vary, catering to diverse tastes and preferences. A pricy golaganda for the connoisseur is adorned with tinned fruit; the epitome of indulgence comes in the form of a high-end treat crowned with crushed almonds and pistachios.

Behind the stall, a treasure awaits – shelves stocked with flavouring syrups, fresh as well as tinned fruits, and condensed milk, all meticulously arranged. Adjacent to this tantalising display is a freezer housing ice slabs, the sole ingredient sourced directly from a daily delivery by a truck from the local ice depot, which supplies ice slabs to each stall.

Khan, with pride in his voice, reveals that his daily sales tally ranges from fifty to a hundred golas. While the summer months usher in a season of prosperity for the business, winter prompts a shift to a warm delicacy - chicken corn soup. The ingredients for these frozen delights and comforting soups are curated by the stall owner and his family. He also purchases all the ingredients needed. Afzal Khan is an employee who gets paid on a daily basis.

The writer is an author, illustrator and educator. She may be contacted at husain.rumana@gmail.com