fter reciting a sermon in Arabic, the maulana in the pulpit starts off in English:

“Everything in existence serves a purpose. While we may not always understand the reasons behind Allah subhanahu wa ta’ala‘s creations, divine wisdom imbues each with significance. From the sun, moon, stars and skies to the creatures deep in the oceans, each fulfills a role. Humans, too, have a purpose, as outlined in the Holy Quran: to worship Allah SWT. True worship entails turning towards Him, known as dua, which represents the pinnacle of devotion.”

This is the fifth Muharram majlis by Maulana Ali Aqib Jafri at the Dewan-i-Salman Farsi auditorium of Masjid-i-Muhammadi on Hali Road in Gulberg. Unlike the traditional mourning congregations held across Lahore and elsewhere where participants sit on the floor, here they sit on auditorium chairs. Unlike some other majalis where appreciation and applause are expected from the audience, the orator here does not seek a response. Instead, he is focused on the core message of the majlis, which is prayer.

“A person once asked the imam (with whom Allah was pleased) whether to engage in additional prayers or dua after the obligatory prayers. The imam advised him to prioritise dua, as it epitomises submission and acknowledges our dependence on Allah SWT. Establishing this connection through dua elevates our worth in His sight.”

With the inception of Muharram, a10-day mourning is observed to commemorate the tragedy of Karbala, where Hazrat Imam Hussain (with whom Allah was pleased), his family and followers were martyred by an army fighting in Yazid’s name. As Muharram begins, the neighbourhood takes on a somber atmosphere, with black attire, a solemn air and a mournful ambience.

At the Hali Road imambargah, before the maulana starts his speech, all announcements are made in English. The auditorium is always packed to capacity.

Syed Ali Abbas, the main organiser of the English-medium majlis, conducts the proceedings.

“This is the fourth year we are holding majalis in English at this place,” he says.

“This is the only place in Lahore where the Muharram majalis are arranged in English to cater to the English speaking audience. It was fortunate that the maulana, Ali Aqib Jafri, otherwise a qualified engineer (a University of Engineering and Technology, Lahore, graduate) agreed to address the majalis in Lahore. Otherwise, he would travel to Europe or North America.”

The maulana says that his audience in Lahore have better English language skills than those in most of Europe and the United States.

Other than English, Lahore hosts a number of majalis in Urdu, Punjabi and Seraiki. Some of these have been a regular feature at Thokar Niaz Baig, Mochi Gate in the Walled City, Begum Kot in Shahdara and Krishan Nagar. Some of the zakirs and the ulema have loyal listeners by the thousands.

An imambargah located close to Aiwan-i-Iqbal hosts thousands of mourners hailing from Gilgit-Baltistan who routinely come here to mourn the sufferings of the Ahle Bait (with whom Allah was pleased).

The 10-day mourning is not just about listening to scholarly speeches. From Muharram 6 onwards, every majlis is followed by a procession where certain shabeeh ziarat are taken out in the memory of Hazrat Ali Asghar, Hazrat Abbas the Standard-Bearer and Hazrat Qasim bin Hassan Mujtaba (with who All was pleased) besides the Taazia and Zuljinnah.

Syed Faizan Naqvi, a historian of Lahore, says on the eve of Muharram, a procession is taken out in Lahore by children. All the participants, including those who address the assembly and lead the procession, mourn and perform the rituals, are children. This procession begins at Imam Bargah Hussainiya, located in Mohalla Shiaan in Mochi Gate. This procession heralds the beginning of the month of Muharram. The sound of young mourners beating their chests in the streets of the Mochi Gate neighbourhood fills the air with a sense of mourning, marking the start of the month commemorating the martyrdom of Imam Hussain (with whom Allah was pleased). The procession visits all the imambargahs in Mochi Darwaza before returning to Hussainiya Hall, where it concludes.

The shrine of Bibian Pakdaman attracts large numbers of visitors during Muharram. Several shops in the vicinity deal in culturally significant items related to Muharram and mourning. Some of these shops attract customers from across Pakistan and abroad. Some of these items are seen as essential for the observance of mourning rituals. These include alam, symbolising the standard carried by Hazrat Abbas, which features motifs and inscriptions honouring the martyrs of Karbala, particularly Imam Hussain (with whom Allah was pleased). The colourful display, under a red canopy, attracts devotees who seek to purchase these items for processions and gatherings during Muharram.

Devotees also throng the stalls set up close to most majalis to buy mourning accessories and religious artefacts. A vendor at Bibian Pakdaman says that they sell alams ranging from Rs 500 to Rs 50,000 depending on the requirements of the buyers. He says lately they have gained customers in Iran and Iraq for their decorative standards.

The culmination of the 10-day mourning is the Zuljinnah procession. The main Zuljinnah procession in Lahore starts on the night of Muharram 9 from Nisar Haveli at Mochi Gate.

Mourners, including women and children, from across Lahore converge on Mochi Darwaza, filling the streets and illuminating every Imam Bargah along the roads leading to Chowk Nawab Sahib.

The influx of visitors spreads throughout the area, with people watching from roofs, shops, windows and doors. When the Zuljinnah is finally brought out at the end of the main majlis, wails of mourning fill the air. Mourners cover their heads with ashes, creating a somber atmosphere that signifies deep sorrow. The procession then makes its way through the cobblestone streets and alleys of Chowk Nawab Sahib.

As the day progresses, the procession moves through the city, with more mourners joining and some leaving at various points. The procession stops at Imam Bargah Syeda Mubarak Begum in front of the Fakir Khana, where offerings are made to Imam Hussain (with whom Allah was pleased). Every Imam Bargah along the route makes arrangements for the arrival of Zuljinnah and free food is distributed throughout the day.

The preparation of Zuljinnah for the procession is a meticulous exercise. The Imam Bargah or majlis founder coordinates with the administration to fix the time for the procession. About two hours before the appointed time, Zuljinnah is brought to the location. The animal’s feet are washed in a ritual ablution. The leader of the assembly then feeds it a mix of pulses or fruits.

When the last zakir or khatib starts speaking, a team of volunteers starts preparing Zuljinnah for the procession. A large white sheet is placed over it and tied. This is followed by the placement of a saddle and a turban. A sword and shield are attached to its sides, and its mouth is adorned with ornaments. Arrows are then arranged and attached to a white cloth, symbolising the martyrdom of Imam Hussain (with whom Allah was pleased) and his family and companions.

The writer is a media veteran interested in politics, consumer rights and entrepreneurship