The Fig Tree’s brand new location in Gulberg offers a unique culinary experience. Its focus is on contemporary cuisine, with fresh ingredients and personalised touches.

The menu boasts an enticing array. The best part is that the portions are designed to leave one comfortably satisfied, not overwhelmed. It’s a refreshing change that allows one to savour the delicious flavours without guilt. The News on Sunday had an exclusive chat with the owner, Zainab Shah. Excerpts follow:

The News on Sunday: What inspired you to get into the culinary business? What sets The Fig Tree apart from other restaurants in Lahore?

Zainab Shah: I always dreamt of running a small bistro-style restaurant in a quaint little town. It wasn’t practical in Pakistan, so I decided to still go ahead and open a restaurant and doing what I like best: cooking for people.

My inspiration has been and always will be my mother. The day I can cook as well as her, I think Michelin will have to visit the country. What sets us apart is the use of fresh ingredients: we pretty much make everything in-house and we make it fresh. Customers can sometimes complain about the long wait, but we aren’t serving frozen meals. We often roll the pasta and tortillas there and then.

TNS: Can you tell us about the concept and vision behind the restaurant? How do you translate this into the dining experience you offer?

ZS: The concept is to try and use local produce as much as possible. That’s my training as a cook; I’ve learned to make things from scratch when things aren’t available. It gave me a keen understanding of the labour and love that goes into the food. That’s why I appreciate it so much more. The result is home-grown local produce with a taste that is international and contemporary.

TNS: The Fig Tree is known for its contemporary cuisine. Could you elaborate on the culinary philosophy driving your menu selection and creation?

ZS: The menu sort of evolved organically from a very small one-page chart of things that I liked to eat, to what it is now. Keeping in mind the local palette as well as keeping my integrity as a chef intact. I’ve grown up eating cuisines from all around the world, so I have a very keen palate, but I also respect tradition. I’ve tried to make all the food on the menu my own, regardless of where it originated, which is what I learned from the great Antonio Carluccio. You don’t have to disrespect a dish to make it your own.

TNS: How do you incorporate local flavours and ingredients into your dishes while maintaining a contemporary taste?

ZS: It’s difficult not having access to more herbs and produce that I would prefer, but if you can figure out what goes well with what, you can make do with what you have. That’s your job as a chef, after all. Most famous classic dishes were invented from leftovers or from the chef having almost nothing to cook with.

TNS: Sustainability and ethical sourcing are becoming increasingly important in the restaurant industry. How does The Fig Tree approach these aspects in its operations?

ZS: Other than a very small number of ingredients, almost everything is locally sourced. I’m a big believer in supporting our economy and improving the quality of our fine dining standards by not being too dependent on imported goods. That’s one way we are trying to make a difference. Another is not stocking food for weeks and months; we don’t use preservatives. The shelf life of our food is limited. We give away whatever is left over.

TNS: Lahore has a rich culinary heritage. How do you blend tradition with innovation at your restaurant?

ZS: The Fig Tree offers very non-traditional, non-desi food. Lahore is a treasure of desi food; I could never imagine myself cooking as well as the array of restaurants on Lakshmi Chowk, the Food Street, my personal favourite Bhayya Kay Kebab; the list is endless. So, I’m doing what I’m good at and leaving the traditional food to the experts and enjoying eating it from the best places in town. I have been trying to figure out how to incorporate laddoo peethiyan into my menu, though.

TNS: What challenges have you faced as a woman entrepreneur in the restaurant industry? How have you overcome them?

ZS: Apart from the political and economic instability, which isn’t exclusive to being a woman entrepreneur and the lack of standardised produce which impacts flavours of the food we serve, I have faced a lot of discouragement and leg-pulling. I’m not a Lahori and belong to no elite social group. But I am a Pakistani, and I am working very hard. I soon realised that support is a word used on social media to sound good; people don’t want a woman to succeed on her own. They will criticise and bully her, not wish her well.

I overcome several problems daily. Every day is a challenge and each day is a new learning experience. Life is about moving forward and learning. I pray that people start supporting small local businesses that are giving people jobs and adding to the economy in very adverse conditions. I hope the government will take steps to make things easier for us instead of trying to run us down. Now that we have a government, I am hopeful things will improve, Insha Allah.

TNS: Looking ahead, what exciting plans or developments can diners expect from The Fig Tree in this year?

ZS: Well, we are launching a new menu as we speak, with some great additions. We are also expanding our home catering, in particular, fine dining at home where people can hire me to cook exclusive seven-course meals for their special guests.

The writer is a communications, public relations and sustainability professional. Her X handle is @FatimaArif