akistani travellers love Istanbul;the natural beauty, the incredible history and our cultural affinity make it a natural choice. Add to that the easy connections and the straightforward visa procedures and you have pretty much sealed the deal.

I, too, count myself among those captivated by its charms. My love affair with Istanbul began in 1996. Every visit since then has made me yearn for one more trip.

Early 2024 presented me with another opportunity: join my sister and her husband on their stopover as they headed in from Canada.

February was going to be cold, not my favourite weather. Winter in Istanbul has a chilly embrace, with the wind chill keeping temperatures just above zero. The city, draped in an overcast sky, experiences intermittent rain. Rather than dampening spirits, this weather adds a mystical allure to Istanbul, especially at night. Paris is another city whose beauty is unaffected by gloomy European winters.

As it was my sister’s first visit, we ticked off the essentials – Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar – efficiently. The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia renovations caught my eye. These have freshened up the two iconic landmarks. It was my first time visiting Hagia Sophia since it was designated a mosque with a visitor area on the first floor. The long queue for Friday prayers confirmed the popularity of this change among the locals.

After this, the plan was to wander and let serendipity take over.

Cats are everywhere in Istanbul. My brother-in-law, a bona fide animal lover, marvelled at how well the Istabulites cared for the stray dogs and cats. The shopkeeper and residents placed food in discreet spots. The municipality had tags on each dog. They looked well-fed and happy.

Our walks, devoid of a structured itinerary, allowed for spontaneous explorations and quality family moments, making it a memorable trip.

We visited the ancient book bazaar between the Grand Bazaar and Istanbul University. A late-night stroll around Isteklal Street, close to Taksim Square, took us away from Sultanahmet and into busy, narrow alleys crowded with people enjoying meals and drinks, frequently to the accompaniment of live music.

The Kadikoy neighbourhood was a discovery with its trendy bars and restaurants and a wonderful walk around the Bosphorus shoreline. There is much more to Istanbul than just the Sultanahmet area.

No travelogue of Istanbul is complete without a mention of its culinary marvels.

The discovery of this trip was boza. A uniquely Turkish drink that is more like a lemon sorbet, except it isn’t cold and is best eaten with roasted chickpeas. It sounds odd, but it is a favourite of the locals. The most famous place for boza is Vefa, a kilometre from the Grand Bazaar. The place was crowded, and they even had a cup framed from which Mustafa Kemal Ataturk had his boza.

Since all three of us were foodies, we squeezed in testi kebab at Kebab House, kofte at SultanahmetKoftecisii, kebabs at Hamdi (Eminonu near the Galata Bridge) anddoner at SahinUsta. We rubbed shoulders with the glitterati of Istanbul at the fancy Ulus 29, with its amazing views over the Bosphorus. One of the highlights was the sumptuous breakfast at EthemEfendi in Kadikoy. Each of these eating experiences deserves a five-star review.

It would be remiss for me not to mention the wonderful staff at the Menar Hotel in Sultanahmet. It is a budget hotel with clean rooms and all the necessary facilities, including the somnolent house cat, Garfield.

All in all, three days were well spent.

Istanbul, a city of dreams and memories, continues to beckon, promising that no matter how many times you return, there will always be more to explore, learn and enjoy.

The writer is a finance professional based in Dubai. He tweets @travelutionary1