The city is home to many historic buildings, most of those in shambles
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n the last decade of the Nineteenth Century, the British army, engaged in military operations in different parts of the world, faced procurement issues. The problem of supplying camels, horses and mules as well as grain, was resolved when the colonial administration decided to establish new cities.
The same need was what led to Lyallpur emerging as an established city. First, canals were dug in Sandal Bar to irrigate the land. After this, Chenab Colony came into being and with that, the foundations were laid for the new city.
Today, the city has transformed from a market town to a major industrial hub of the country. In this journey of development, its historical and cultural heritage is at risk due to lack of preservation.
The first historical building of Lyallpur is the Clock Tower of the city in the residential colony of the Irrigation Department, opposite the General Post Office on the Railway Road. Located next to the Telegraph Office building, the clock tower is about 50 feet high. It was built between 1892 and 1885, before the establishment of Lyallpur.
Although the Clock Tower building is still standing, little has been done to preserve it.
Among the historical buildings that were constructed in the early years after the establishment of Lyallpur are the Kaiseri Gate and Gumti.
Kaiseri Gate, built in 1897 by Lala Mohan Ram to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s coronation, is located on the eastern side of the Clock Tower, right at the entrance of the Rail Bazaar. A few metres in front of there is a round building with eight arches and fountains, the Gumti. Little is known about the history of this landmark.
According to the information plaques displayed by the Lyallpur Heritage Foundation outside the Gumti and Kaiseri Gate, these buildings were constructed in 1897 “when Queen Victoria visited Lyallpur.”
Contrary to the claim, Queen Victoria never came visied India.
According to Ashraf Ashari, the author of Faisalabad Tareekh Kay Ayanay Mein, the narrative that Chenab River once flowed here has been derived from the words “Barkat Daray-i-Chanhan Di“ on the fountain built inside the Gumti.
“In the grain market, when people counted grain, they would first say barkat instead of one. So the counting went like barkat, two, three, four, five, etc. Therefore, it is possible that Gumti was the very first building constructed in the area,” he says.
These heritage sites are now in shambles. The Kaiseri Gate is surrounded by encroachments. The Gumti is right in the middle of a very busy junction. Its iron grill has been damaged many times by vehicles ramming into it. Posters and banners, vouching for various political parties and traders’ organisations, also diminish the beauty of these landmarks.
In 1897, the layout of Lyallpur city was designed by Captain Popham Young. It was to be built over 110 acres of land consisting of eight bazaars and round bazaars passing through them. The blueprint resembled the Union Jack.
Today, the landmark that comes to mind firs when one hears of Faisalabad is the Clock Tower at the confluence of the eight bazaars. It was built in the memory of Queen Victoria after her death.
Its foundation was laid on November 14, 1903, by Sir Charles Rivaz, the Punjab governor. Its construction was completed in about two years. On December 13, 1905, the clock tower was inaugurated by Leo Percy, the financial commissioner of the Punjab.
This historic building was built with the financial support of the residents of the city. In recognition of their contributions, inscriptions in English, Urdu, Hindi and Gurumukhi are engraved on the four sides of the tower.
The only attempt to preserve Faisalabad’s cultural heritage was made in 2014 by the then-district coordination officer Nurul Amin Mengal. He started the restoration work on more than 45 historical buildings built between 1901 and 1937 by establishing the Lyallpur Heritage Foundation. After his transfer in 2016, the project stalled.
“This clock tower was erected by the inhabitants of the Chenab Colony in grateful remembrance of the empress, Queen Victoria, 1903-1905,” read the inscriptions.
The Clock Tower is also falling apart due to neglect. The clock has been dysfunctional for a long time. The plinth and decorative railings of the stairs are also in a state of disrepair.
The splendour of the landmark is fading with every passing day because of air and noise pollution. The cobwebs and dust on its interior walls make the tower look like a remote ruin rather than a cherished landmark located in the heart of the city.
The brass commemorative plaques installed on the occasion of the construction and inauguration of the Clock Tower have turned black with time.
Over a year ago, a mentally disturbed individual climbed the Clock Tower with the intention of committing suicide. He also damaged the tower. The damage is yet to be repaired.
The Company Bagh/ Jinnah Garden monument (established in 1902), too, has lost its identity.
Some residents of the city believe that this monument was built in memory of Sir James Broadwood Lyall; others believe that it was built by King Edward VII, who became the emperor after the death of Queen Victoria, or commemorates the coronation George V.
However, it is named as Quaid-i-Azam Monument on the websites of the Lyallpur Heritage Foundation and the district government.
Five years ago, the Lyallpur Heritage Foundation acknowledged that the monument was named after Sir James Lyall. LHF representatives also promised to put up an identification plaque. The pledge is yet to be redeemed.
The building that was used as the residence and office of the additional deputy commissioner in 1909 was declared a cultural heritage in 2014 and given the name, Lyallpur House, after restoration. However, citizens were not given access to it. The building is now being used as the deputy commissioner’s camp office.
Restoration work on the Coronation Library (Allama Iqbal Library) built in 1911 and the Zila Council building built in 1920 has also not been completed for several years due to lack of funds and administrative obstacles.
Another historic building, the first Women’s Hospital of the city which was built in 1935. It was later converted into office space for the Health Department.
The only attempt to preserve Faisalabad’s cultural heritage was made in 2014 by the then-district coordination officer, Nurul Amin Mengal.
He started the restoration work on more than 45 historical buildings built between 1901 and 1937 by establishing the Lyallpur Heritage Foundation. After his transfer in 2016, progress on the project stalled.
The buildings identified as cultural heritage at that time include Lyallpur House, Clock Tower, Kaisari Gate, Gumti, Allama Iqbal Library, Bagh-i-Jinnah Monument, Agriculture College, APWA Centre, Old Block of GC University, Govt Sabria Sarajia High School, Mandir Seeta Ram, Gurdwara Pakistan Model High School, Kachehri Bazaar Mosque, Catholic Church in Rail Bazaar, Arya Samaj Temple, St Peter’s Church opposite Chenab Club, Sanatan Dharam Library (demolished two years ago), Health Office, Darul Uloom Abdullahpur, Noor Shah Wali’s mazar, Killa Gift Building, District Jail, Muslim High School, Railway Station, Railway Hospital, Old Circuit House in Agriculture University, residence of assistant commissioner, TB Hospital, Women Hospital, Old District Kachehri Building and the Old Chenab Club Building.
The Irrigation Department office compound includes the old Telegraph Office building, Sandal Bar Police Station, Gora Qabristan, Khalsa College Abdullahpur, Green Elevator, the old office of the Irrigation Department, the CPO office and the District Council building.
Apart from these, Bhagat Singh’s native village, Bangay; Sir Ganga Ram’s native village, Gangapur; Mirza Sahib’s village, Danaabad; Ahmad Khan Kharal’s village, Jhamra; and Khushpur, which is also called the Vatican City of Pakistan, have been declared historical villages.
According to the current administration of Lyallpur Heritage Foundation, the organisation is facing difficulties in the preservation and restoration of the city’s cultural heritage due to the non-availability of funds. Another important reason for this is the lack of interest on the part of public representatives, district administration and relevant government departments.
A suggestion has been made in the past to shift wholesale businesses away from the city centre, preferably outside the city to preserve the historic sites and resolve the traffic issues. However, no action was taken in this regard.
The writer has been associated with journalism for the past decade. He tweets @ naeemahmad876