he territories that now form Pakistan have witnessed the rise and fall of many an empire. Each of these empires has left an indelible mark on the region. Unfortunately, a number of historical sites remain unpreserved.

Lahore, the capital of the Punjab province, is one of Pakistan’s oldest and most historic cities. The city boasts numerous heritage sites dating back to the Mughal and Sikh eras. A visit to old Lahore reveals a tapestry of magnificent forts, temples, mosques, gurdwaras, havelis and ancient gardens.

Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, an ancient holy site, is one of the region’s less known gems. Situated in Manak village, approximately 45 kilometres from Lahore on Raiwind Road, the Gurdwara holds historical significance as it is believed that Guru Nanak, the founder of the Sikh religion, spent some time in Manak village. Visitors can disembark from the bus at Pajian to reach the village and travel about four kilometres from the main road. A well-maintained metalled road leads to Manak.

The Gurdwara is a majestic three-storied structure adorned. The complex is divided into several sections, including the langar hall, the serai, the foyer, the prakash asthan (ceremonial place for the Guru Granth Sahib), and a divan hall designed in the baradari style. Adjacent to the shrine, there are the samadhis of some Udasi sadhus (monks). Unfortunately, the water tank next to the gurdwara has not been cleaned for some time. The once magnificent buildings are now dilapidated and risk being reduced to mere ruins. The main building of the gurudwara collapsed about two years ago. There is an urgent need to conserve the remaining structures. The walls are currently deteriorating so that the structural integrity of the gurdwara is endangered.

The villagers have been devoted to the gurudwara. 82 ghamao land has been donated to a trust for its upkeep. Until 1947, the Jat community of the village, had included followers of Islam, Sikhism and Hinduism. The village still hosts an annual Vasakhi Mela during which the villagers abstain from cooking at their homes and partake in a communal meal served in the langar hall. The langar is managed by Sikhs, Muslims and Hindus for one day each.

The historical significance of this gurdwara stems from the visit by Guru Devji, who arrived at the nearby Pajian from Manga. Although most of the villagers welcomed him warmly, some of them later mocked his devotional practices. Feeling unwelcome, Guru Devji chose to leave the village and settled outside the village. It is narrated that when he was asked by a follower about the reason for his departure, the Guruji referred to the villagers as “paji” (wicked and mean). This gave the village a new name (Pajian) that has survived to this day. The mound where he stayed, came to be known as Manak. Over time, a village developed around it.

Guru Devji, affectionately known to his devotees as Swami Brahmananda Saraswati, was born in 1871. He had hailed from a Brahmin family settled near Ayodhya, India. It is said that he exhibited remarkable maturity and peace in his childhood. At age eight, his family sent him to Benares, the centre of knowledge and wisdom, to pursue religious education. There, he developed a profound interest in studying Sanskrit and the sacred Vedic scriptures. During his time in Benares, Guru Devji decided to embark on the path of renunciation.

Despite its dilapidated state, it draws many tourists from abroad and from across Pakistan, who harbour deep attachment, devotion and concern for the crumbling archaeological site.

His only goal was to immerse himself in the spiritual realm and seek profound wisdom. After extensive journeys to various parts of the subcontinent, including Kolkata, Hyderabad and Lahore, Guru Devji finally arrived at the famous Rishikesh in the foothills of the Himalayas. In 1906, at 36, Gurudev took the vows of sannyas, embracing an ascetic way of life. For much of his adult life, Guru Devji lived in solitude and seclusion in remote places. During this time, like many other sages, he took a vow of silence and had very little communication with others. It is believed that Guru Devji spent 40 years in a cave in central India.

Upon turning 60, he reconnected with the society and spent time in Banaras, Lahore, Ayodhya and Prayag, affording darshan and imparting spiritual mentoring. His fame spread fast during this phase of his life. He set up an ashram called Brahma Nivas in Benares that served as his principal seat, where he delivered lectures. In 1953, at eighty-one, Guru Devji passed away in Kolkata.

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I had the opportunity to visit this gurdwara in 2019 during my time in Lahore. Unfortunately, the state of the gurdwara was one of complete neglect. I discovered that a Christian family was residing in the few remaining rooms and samadhi. Some of the family members said being homeless they had sought refuge at the gurdwara. The current residents are the third generation of the family. They say they have no claim to the title of the property.

Imran William, a Lahore-based archaeologist and administrator of the India Pakistan Heritage Club Web page, shared valuable information. He said the total area of the gurdwara is approximately one acre. The main building of the gurdwara occupies 4 kanals. A significant fair used to take place around the gurdwara until 1947. A girls’ school was once established on the gurdwara premises. However, the school was later relocated and the building abandoned.

Currently, the gurdwara is surrounded on three sides by Bahria Town. The Department of Archaeology has not yet taken charge of its maintenance. A pool that had in front of the main building is gone and the baradari and the langar hall have been demolished. Only two samadhis have survived. Imran says a domed room has been identified as the place where Guru Devji used to recite the Granth. Another domed room served as his retirement room during his overnight stays.

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Imran says that many people from the Pajian village still visit the gurdwara. Some of them pledge mannats at the tree growing in the courtyard. Various local groups now claim ownership of the gurdwara land.

Imran says the history of the gurdwara is disputed. While some historians assert that the gurdwara belongs to the First Guru, others say that it pertains to the Second and Third Gurus. Additionally, certain historians characterise this Gurdwara as a Dera associated with a devoted servant and follower of the Third Guru.

In recent years, the gurdwara complex has evolved into a cultural attraction. Despite its dilapidated state, it draws many tourists from abroad and from across Pakistan, who harbour deep attachment, devotion and concern the for crumbling archaeological site. Sikh groups from India also frequently visit this gurdwara. There are no signs of a substantial effort to restore the gurdwara. Only a few walls adorned with fresco paintings still stand. These include images of the 10 Gurus.

The Pehli Patshahi Gurdwara is a stark indictment of the Archaeology Department. Immediate measures are imperative to safeguard this historical and cultural site. It is essential to undertake efforts to restore and maintain the gurdwara complex, ensuring the preservation of its architectural splendour and spiritual significance for future generations. Collaborative initiatives involving the local community, historic preservation organisations and relevant authorities can revitalise and rejuvenate this venerable place of worship.

The writer is a freelance journalist and researcher based in Gujranwala. His interests include history and less-known heritage sites. He can be reached at waseemshabbir78@gmail.com