have always wanted to visit the northern areas of Pakistan characterised by lush green meadows, snow-capped mountains, enchanting waterfalls, melting glaciers, enthralling lakes and alluring cold water rivers.

In July this year, an opportunity to visit Lake Saif-ul Mulook presented itself. I seized it. On this journey, I was accompanied by four friends. We left Gujranwala at around 10pm, travelling by car, we reached Naran Valley at around 9am.

On reaching Naran, the first order of business was securing accommodation. We chose an apartment situated on the bank of the Kunhar River. The Naran Valley, features glaciers, lakes, waterfalls and picturesque meadows. It is a popular summer destination for domestic as well as foreign tourists.

On day one, we took walks along the Kunhar River and marvelled at the scenic surroundings. We noticed a large number of tourists. The following day, we visited the Lake Saif-ul Mulook, leaving our car in Naran and travelling by a jeep. I and my friends also took the opportunity to enjoy rafting in Kunhar River.

Lake Saif-ul Mulook, ranked the fifth-best tourist destination in Pakistan by The Guardian, is a ritual paradise. Its waters look greenish-blue. The lake is surrounded by colossal glaciers and imposing rocks, including the majestic Malika Parbat. Situated at the northern extremity of the Kaghan Valley, the lake is situated in the Mansehra district. It is the highest alpine lake in Pakistan, nestled at an elevation of 3,224 metres above sea level. It serves as a reservoir for glacial waters. During the winter months it freezes over amid snowfall. The ideal time to visit the lake is between June and September, when the climate is pleasantly mild and the daytime temperature averaging around 15-20 degrees Celsius. At night, the temperature drops to an average of 3 degrees Celsius.

Adventure enthusiasts can go boating in the lake. However, caution is advised as rescue arrangements are primitive and far from reassuring. Trekking is safer and can be as much fun. For those who do not wish walk, horses and ponies are readily available. Camping under the moon is an option.

Exploring the surrounding hills by jeep, we found the route rugged, bumpy and rocky. There were frequent heavy jolts as the jeep navigated rocky paths and rutted roads along deep ravines.

A disappointment on the way was when our jeep malfunctioned. This caused us considerable distress. Stranded for about two hours, we found solace in the company of local people who were roasting a lamb over a coal fire, next to an expansive glacier. We also took the opportunity to take some pictures of the stunning views of lush greenery and snow-laden mountains.

Our driver did his best to repair the jeep but was unsuccessful in the end. Eventually, he arranged for us to be accommodated one by one in other jeeps. We reached Lake Saif-ul Mulook two hours later than our scheduled arrival.

The lake’s shores presented a lively scene, bustling with tourists. Many of them were taking pictures of Lake Saif-ul Mulook and themselves. Some were rushing to join boating groups. Some of us enjoyed horseback rides. Others simply relaxed on the grassy fields, indulging in food and conversation. There were many shops around, offering a variety of foods as well as stalls selling traditional handicrafts. Small bridges and causeways were being constructed on the lake’s western side.

Our party embarked on a hike along the lower cliffs, taking the opportunity to interact with the locals and delve deeper into the charm of Saif-ul Mulook. Conversations with the people in the area revealed that many residents of Naran valley earned their livelihoods by organising and offering services like sailing boats, horse riding, tube slides over glaciers and selling traditional souvenirs.

After the hot weather in central Punjab, our visit to Lake Saif-ul Mulook was a rejuvenating escape.

During our walk-around, we met an elderly man named Habibullah, who sold dry fruits near the lake. He graciously shared with us the tale of Saif-ul Mulook, an Egyptian prince blessed with immense wealth inherited from his ancestors. Enamoured by the picture of a fairy, the prince embarked on a six-year journey to find her.

Habib said Saif had met a saint who gave him a hat attributed to Prophet Suleiman (peace be upon him), telling him that it would guide the prince to his destination. The saint forewarned Saif of the challenges he would face in winning the fairy’s heart and told him that humans cannot easily discern a fairy from a demon. Undeterred, Saif reached his destination and undertook a 40-day prayer and purification retreat (chilla). His health deteriorated in the process. However, he persevered, praying fervently. On the night of the 14th day, he finally beheld the fairy queen. She had black hair and sparkling eyes.

Following a conversation with Badi al-Jamal, Saif learnt that she had been trapped in a fortress on the Qaf mountain for the past decade by Safid Dev (the White Giant) who harboured passionate love for the fairy queen. Saif helped the fairy escape from the valley. However, upon discovering their intentions, the enraged giant created a disturbance in the lake, resulting in the flooding of the Kaghan Valley.

The fairy queen and Saif hid first in a graveyard a few miles from Naran. Then the flood came and they were compelled to take shelter in a cave near Lake Saif-ul Mulook. Legend has it that the Ansoo Lake in Kaghan Valley, located a few miles away from Lake Saif-ul Malook, was formed by the tears of the giant upon learning of the fairy’s departure. Habibullah said the prince and the fairy queen continue to reside in the cave. He says on the 14th night of every lunar month, they dance on the lake’s water.

According to the old man, Lake Saif-ul Mulook and its surroundings are a realm inhabited by fairies and demons whose expressions of anger manifest through extreme weather events. The folklore adds an air of mystery to the enchanting surroundings of the lake.

We expressed our heartfelt gratitude to Habibullah.

Another highlight of our visit was the enchanting experience of boating on the lake. Unlike motor boats, the sailboats cruised along gently at a leisurely pace. It is a unique and refreshing experience.

Following the boat ride, my friends and I went horse riding along the banks of the lake. A brief pause near a glacier allowed us to witness people sliding down the glacier on tubes.

As fatigue set in after hiking and exploration, hunger prompted us to gather near a giant glacier for a delightful barbecue session. For nearly an hour and a half, we sat around, talked and savoured the food. Our visit to the lake was limited to four hours, as per the constraints set by the jeep driver. While we missed the camping experience that we had enjoyed during a visit to Siri Paye, our visit to Lake Saif-ul Mulook was truly memorable.

While the trip to Naran Valley and Lake Saif-ul Mulook was undeniably a wonderful experience, certain aspects left me disappointed. Arrangements for cleanliness around Lake Saif-ul Malook leave much to be desired. The absence of basic amenities is particularly disappointing. Over the years, the condition around this otherwise magnificent place have deteriorated. Most of the tourists we talked to expressed their dissatisfaction with the facilities and the prices charged for the experience.

Locals said the district administration had proposed a cable-car from Naran to Lake Saif-ul Mulook on numerous occasions. The absence of hotels and rest houses around the lake is a significant challenge.

The writer is a freelance journalist based in Gujranwala. He mostly writes on travel, history and heritage. He can be reached at waseemshabbir78@gmail.com