he City Walls may be synonymous with the Great Wall of China which first appeared in the 7^th Century BC and was strengthened and expanded in the succeeding 2,300 years, virtually by every dynasty. This, originally, was a city wall the idea of which was picked up by various warring states. (We shall discuss the Great Wall in a later dispatch).

Over thousands of years, in all parts of the world, similar walls have defied the invaders. Their role diminished with the introduction of bigger cannons, having more blasting power. The massive walls of Istanbul, too, were breached by cannons on May 29, 1453. Moreover, the idea of defending a city in a state of siege has become obsolete. Had the battle of Seringapatam been fought in the open, many more of Tipu Sultan’s soldiers would have survived. Perhaps, the course of history would have been different.

A city wall could defend the populace against some invaders but a prolonged siege could cause starvation. Lahore too, like many other cities, had its own Wall, known for its 12 gates and a 13^th one for garbage and the like. This was never a proper wall. Akbar rebuilt it during his fourteen years of sojourn here — from 1584 to 1598. Paathi Ground as his elephants’ stable and the Akbari Gate nearby have been discussed in an earlier dispatch. The walls never really protected Lahore’s citizens against the adventurers. Mohkam Din quietly opened its gates to a young Ranjeet Singh. The British, too, had a simple walkover.

The city walls had become obsolete long ago. Instead of 12 gates, numerous openings had been pierced to make thoroughfares. The British were more into linear or horizontal expansion of the city. It was to be a city for the automobile. The story of the railways would be discussed later.

Androon shehr was the new definition. However, this was never a City of Gardens because there were virtually no trees in this man-made mound. Albeit there were built monumental gardens along with water works, Shalamar Gardens, a prototype of Baroque garden extravaganzas and Jahangir’s Tomb, the largest mega project of the Moghuls in Lahore, a precursor to the Taj Mahal.

Badami Bagh and Faiz Bagh were later entries. Lawrence Gardens is still a wonderful botanical garden where a large variety of local and tropical flora exists for the fauna to nestle and sing the songs and hymns in praise of Nature. Gulshan-i-Iqbal is a good addition except that it has only alien trees.

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For centuries, the city of Lahore has retained its character and evolved as the cultural capital of the region. Of late, though, some attempts have been made to introduce dramatic changes which are not at all part of its organic character. It has its own climatic responses, culinary delights and seasonal festivities.

An overly enthusiastic bureaucrat first created the Parks and Horticulture Authority. Not much research was carried out to bring back the traditional indigenous plants and trees that would bring the local birds and reptiles to back. The same person had the bright idea of beautifying whatever was tangible history. The Zamzama cannon, which was cast in bronze by lost wax method in Lahore and proud winner of the 3^rd Battle of Panipat, too, wasn’t spared. Labourers armed with drill machines and grinders were asked to remove the ‘noble’ patina from its surface. In the process, many inscriptions on it were damaged.

The PHA also sought control of the Moghul monuments including Shalamar and Jahangir’s Tomb in utter disregard of the UNESCO manual that provides guidelines for handling historical gardens. As reported by Zulqarnain Tahir on July 1, 2005, the PHA was given a lucrative contract (Rs 40 million) to maintain the Moghul gardens, in the midst of severe opposition from the director general of Archaeology Department. Serious observations had been expressed by the specialists. Dr Abdul Rehman of the Department of Architecture at University of Engineering and Technology said that the PHA lacked expertise to handle historical gardens.

Emboldened by the collaborators on money making schemes, the idea of food streets was floated. It may be pointed out that the Old Anarkali, Gowalmandi and Shahi Mohalla already had many eateries to cater to the visitors, students, lawyers and shopkeepers. The food only became more expensive. There were protests by the citizens and the well-wishers of the city.

More horrific events were waiting to happen. The ‘temporary’ government of the Punjab, whose mandate is only to hold elections, whenever, has handed charge of the Archaeology Department monuments viz Shalamar, Jahangir’s Tomb and Lahore Fort to the Walled City of Lahore Authority. The department has thus been deprived of all its income generating properties.

With a single stroke of the pen, the septuagenarian bureaucrat, already on extensions in Grade 22 (though only a much needed retired officer can be hired on contract for up to 63 years of, according to the ESTA) was made in charge.

It was like an invasion of Lahore Fort. All the archaeology staff was thrown out along with the precious records, library books in the drizzling, inclement weather. They sought refuge at the Allama Iqbal Museum on Mayo Road.

Video clips sent by the bewildered staff show mature plants being felled at these monuments and delicate pietra dura inlays being handled by lay workers. In one incident, a labourer deputed to do some digging in the fort died. There is a glimmer of hope during all those dark events. A new director general of Archaeology Department had been appointed and the perpetual bureaucrat relieved of the additional charge. Nevertheless, the monuments remain in the jurisdiction of the WCLA. A meeting was called by the chief secretary of the Punjab at the secretariat in which many people including this scribe were invited. The agenda was a single point i.e. allowing someone to be buried in a shrine.

The archaeology staff had come along with data and supporting documents to avail this occasion to discuss their plight under “any other item with the permission of the chair.” But the single-point agenda meeting did not last more than two minutes. The chief secretary, who is supposed to be more permanent than the “caretaker” governor, entered his office and announced his decision quickly and left the hall. Those who had braved the morning traffic chaos included the Planning and Development Board chairman, the finance secretary, the local government secretary, and the secretaries of Tourism and Archaeology Departments. They could have intervened or asked for sanity to prevail. Maybe this was why the meeting wasn’t allowed to last more than two minutes.

With no introductory remarks and not even a cup of tea, the bewildered invitees chose to remain in the hall for fellowship and to listen to the plight of the refugees of the Archaeology Department. My discussions with them were quite eye-opening and enlightening. Prof Dr Munazzah Akhtar, head of the Architecture Department at the UET, is a learned scholar. She holds a doctorate from Canada and has published several research papers. Her doctoral thesis was on the Makli Hills graveyard, she told me. In my mind I was seeing the graveyard of the Lahore monuments.

(This dispatch is dedicated to Dr Saifur Rehman Dar)

The writer is a painter, a founding member of Lahore Conservation Society and Punjab Artists Association, and a former director of NCA Art Gallery. He can be reached at ajazart@brain.net.pk