arah Burton upheld the integrity of the McQueen vision in the SS23 showcase, designing with an eye on kindness.

The design house may have lost its founder and leader, but the construction that puts the McQueen mark on each design remains.

Sharp edges flow out to billowing skirts or a softer drape, however minimal, and hyper-feminine elements find balance in some very directional structure. What is fun to note about this collection is how prominently the cobalt hue of blue features in this collection.

Not the prettiest of colors, cobalt has an undertone of white that makes it chalky. This is a color you would avoid mixing with your other paints or dyes, whatever your medium of art. In fashion, the other shades of blue often win out. Tiffany and pale blues for spring and summer, navy and ultramarine as the weather cools. Of course you will get the icy blue sweater to really play into the winter aesthetic, and the softer shades will always position themselves as more on the quirky side of fashion.

Cobalt, however, is an interesting color to work with. How much is too much? You may not all share this opinion, but the white tint in any color makes it appear denser, more solid than others. Not what you want for SS. However the more you look at it, stitched into shape, the more the idea begins to appeal.

Perhaps what you want is a strong shade of blue for the summer, even one as oppressive as the one we witness most in Pakistan. Perhaps we leave the cool, sky, ice, grey shades of blue behind us and get ready to take ownership of ourselves, who we are, what we want, what we do, and how we do it.

Perhaps, it is time to live a little more cobalt, and a little less delicate.

Khaadi

The fashion chain has one of the widest customer base in Pakistan and internationally, so a lot of times, they will err on the side of caution and present designs more palatable to the desi taste. That said, we like that they were intuitive in their choice of color, and if you won’t make a bold statement with design, you may as well go with a bolder shade.

Ego

Ego has really become a vibe, style-wise, over the years, and we really enjoy the sweet details on almost all their pieces.

Daaman

Daaman shapes this season’s it color into its trademark gathers and pleats, and delivers a smart set.

Sania Maskatiya

A classic kameez, in classic Sania Maskatiya style.