Lahore is never short on community spaces, whose significance extends beyond mere socialising or snacking
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arly in the tranquil summer mornings, visitors to Model Town Park can often spot acclaimed writer Mustansar Hussain Tarar squatting under a tree, following a refreshing walk, surrounded by his fans and friends, and regaling them with stories from his highly eventful life. It’s hard to resist joining the crowd.
Lahore has always been home to artists and thinkers and writers and academics. Its rich cultural heritage and a vibrant literary scene are legendary. Among the many elements that contribute to the city’s status as the hub of literature and culture are its many community spaces such as the iconic Pak Tea House. While some of these spaces have vanished over time and some have undergone changes, the city is never short on avenues where the thinking and the artistically inclined come together, exchange ideas and gain inspiration.
For Zulfiqar Ahmed Zulfi, renowned artist and the former director of the Lahore Arts Council, whose childhood was spent in the enchanting walls of the Old (Walled) City, where he grew up witnessing community spaces that shaped his perception of the world, there is a great deal of nostalgia attached to Lahore’s formerly buzzing literary scene. Talking to TNS he fondly remembers “the days when the sun would begin its descent and the locals would start gathering along the narrow lanes [of the Walled City]. They’d discuss matters of national and international importance, and offer critiques that were full of indigenous humour and clever wit.”
Zulfi also talks of “the dynamic deras” of local dons that had an air of intrigue about them. He adds, “The wrestlers’ rings and dons’ deras symbolised power and authority, while the music, culture, and artists’ gharanas represented the beating heart of a vibrant community.
“These spaces were more than just physical locations; these were sanctuaries of heritage, connection and creativity.”
Zulfi is of the view that the passing years witnessed a gradual migration of residents from the Walled City, leaving it empty and void. The void that was soon filled by the Afghan traders who brought with them a new flavour and energy. This transition marked “a significant shift, as the Walled City continued to evolve and adapt, its essence forever imprinted upon memories of those who had experienced its magic.”
Outside of the Walled City, Pak Tea House has had poets, writers and progressive thinkers routinely come together. Later, the place was closed down briefly.
In recent times, Alhamra on The Mall, has nurtured Adabi Baithak sessions. Besides, Alhamra has a lot to offer in terms of art exhibitions, music classes, stage shows and opportunities for networking.
In other parts of the city, chai khanas have established a loyal customer base among people from diverse backgrounds. Commonly known as dhabas, these open-air cafés offer the much-needed escape from the humdrum of urban life, with their live tea brewing, simple but tasty snacks and live music.
Mona Zia, a broadcaster and poet, who is a regular at the Alhamra baithak, insists that such community spaces are “oxygen to the thinking mind and help literatures evolve and flourish through shared experience and dialogue.”
Previously, Zia was a frequenter to Nairang Art Gallery on Jail Road, which hosted weekly sittings with historian Mubarak Ali. She says that the sessions attracted art enthusiasts and history buffs alike. Sadly, the place was shut down.
The Punjab Institute of Language, Art and Culture (PILAC), adjacent to the Gaddafi Stadium, houses a purpose-built café that has become a favourite spot for Punjabi writers and activists. Here, people of various age groups can be seen engaged in intellectual discussions and particularly promoting the Punjabi language.
In Model Town, Faiz Ghar provides a cozy setting for discussions and reading sessions. Besides, it offers creative workshops. Olo Junction, run by Kanwal Khoosat, in New Muslim Town, has also become famous for its wide array of events that include open-mic nights, standup comedy acts, dance classes, Halloween nights, and so on.
In more mainstream Lahore, Readings (on Main Boulevard, Gulberg), and Books and Beans (on Guru Mangat Road) have emerged as popular destinations for book lovers as well as writers and journalists. These places not only offer a wide variety of books but also a warm and intimate chai/ coffee corner and reliable wi-fi connection.
In other parts of Gulberg, chai khanas have established a loyal customer base among people from diverse backgrounds. Commonly known as dhabas, these open-air cafés offer the much-needed escape from the humdrum of urban life, with their live tea brewing, simple but tasty snacks and live music. Most popular among these are the rooftop setups.
Shazia Khan, who confesses to be a chai lover, describes the ambience at these cafés as “lively and uplifting.” She believes that the significance of these places extends beyond mere socialising or even snacking.
The writer is a media veteran interested in politics, consumer rights and entrepreneurship