bserved worldwide, Ramazan is one of the most sacred months of the Islamic lunar calendar. The month of fasting and prayers is celebrated with great fervour every year. The daily routines of Muslim communities change dramatically during the month, as most of the faithful fast from dawn till dusk. School, office and bank timings receive an overhaul for the length of the holy month, and so do the eateries.

All over Pakistan, since 1981, as per the prohibition clause under the Ehtram-i-Ramazan Ordinance, restaurants, hotels, canteens and other eateries are not allowed to serve food during the day for the length of the fast. Except for those exempted, which include “(a)a canteen or kitchen maintained in a hospital for serving food to patients; (b)a restaurant, or canteen, stall or wheel-barrow, or the holder of vending contract, within the premises of a railway station or in a train or a restaurant or canteen within the premises of an airport, seaport, or bus stand or in an aircraft; (c) a kitchen or dining car of a train; and (d) a kitchen or canteen meant for children within the premises of a primary school.” After the 18th Amendment, the law became a provincial subject, and in the Punjab’s case, the word Pakistan has been replaced with the Punjab, although no other changes have been made to the provisions of the 1981 Ordinance.

Not only does serving eatables remain prohibited but eating or drinking in public places too, under sub-section (1), which states, “No person who, according to the tenets of Islam, is under an obligation to fast shall eat, drink or smoke in a public place during fasting hours in the month of Ramazan.” Whosoever contravenes can be punished with imprisonment or a fine.

Most restaurants and other local eateries focus on iftar and suhoor to compensate for the loss of business during the day. But since the court ordered early closure of markets and restaurants in December last year, primarily in order to conserve electricity, it appeared that these businesses could only partially benefit from the usual Ramazan rush. A revision of closure timings on March 31, however, brought all food businesses great relief. Restaurants in the city are now allowed to operate from iftar till 6 in the morning. Bakeries can remain open till 1 post midnight.

As stated in the notification shared by the Lahore deputy commissioner, timings will revert once the month is over.

“Daily life changes during Ramazan,” says Ahsan Butt, who manages a busy restaurant in DHA, Lahore. “It is mostly in the evening that people begin to socialise, and the best way to do that is over a meal.

“Most restaurants design special menus for sehr and iftar,” Butt adds. “Buffet meals are especially popular.”

Butt’s restaurant has branches in two other locations in the city. It’s a popular hangout spot for youngsters, he says.

It is evident that the revised market timings have been very well received… The markets come alive every evening close to iftar, and the energy and festivity continues till sehr.

Cruising through the city at night, it is evident that the new timings have been very well received. Gulberg Main Boulevard boasts many posh, not to forget popular, eateries; the adjacent Main Market offers relatively economical options to the foodies. The best part is that both the markets come alive every evening close to iftar. The energy and festivity continue till sehr.

Sipping coffee or eating dessert after a sumptuous meal at a chic restaurant, friends and families sit leisurely, enjoying the vibrant elan of the city during the holy month. “Ramazan brings with it fresh energy. Iftar parties are what we plan meticulously both at home and outdoors. It’s always much more fun to check into a nice, comfy restaurant that also serves quality food,” says Resham, a food enthusiast. Her friend quickly joins in: “We enjoy eating out, but it’s become way too expensive now. So, we limit our excursions.”

Her comment receives nods of approval from the rest in her group.

Indeed, the ever-rising inflation has made dining out difficult for many people. Food supply prices have risen manifold, forcing restaurants to increase their rates. “The ingredients are expensive, and if we are to serve quality food to our customers, and maintain our standards, increasing the rates is the only option for us,” says Usman Ahmed, the owner of a well-liked restaurant in Johar Town.

nflation has affected the industry as well as the eateries. However, the Ramazan-related boom is undeniable. Night markets during the month bring people out of their homes with all their vibrancy and energy, especially in the last ten days of the holy month. Last week, the Lahore High Court (LHC) relaxed the market timings as most people can only visit marketplaces after iftar and tarawih prayers. The markets are now open till 1am.

These timings are to last till Chaand Raat only.

“We have noticed an increase in business ever since the [market] timings have been revised,” observes Ahmed, a local shop owner.

Many people who visit the shopping malls in the city after tarawih like to hang around and return home only after having sehri in the mall food courts. Marketplaces such as Liberty, MM Alam Road and The Mall, with their several restaurants and shopping malls, entice Lahoris who end up at one eatery or the other after an exhilarating yet exhausting shopping spree.

If one observes closely, one notices that people come to markets to indulge in the energy and festivity that surrounds Ramazan and Eid. High inflation may have robbed people of their buying power, but even that does not seem to have broken the spirit of the city during the holy month. As Eid approaches, Lahoris continue to flock the markets and eat out at night.

The writer is a staff member