Of sweetness and nostalgia

February 26, 2023

Gur Mela was an endearing attempt to simultaneously satisfy the city’s sweet tooth and pay tribute to village food

Of sweetness and nostalgia


T

he Gur Mela, organised at the University of Agriculture Faisalabad (UAF) a few days ago, took me back to the winters of my childhood. Festivals and sweet things are what I remember most vividly.

Every year, when the kamad (sugarcane) crop was ready for harvest in his village, our uncle would invite us over. The trip was a celebration of sorts. A good yield depends on optimal conditions; the right temperature, soil and proper land preparation.

Sugarcane, planted in fall and spring in different parts of the country, is very sensitive to environmental factors. The fourth major crop of the country is also a demanding one. So the harvest season brought with it an air of festivity but for me, a child with a perpetual sweet tooth, it mattered more that I got to indulge.

At the time of the harvest, a roller, locally referred to as a bailna, would be installed in the fields to press sugarcane and extract its juice. Carefully, the raw juice would be collected and transferred to a giant cast iron vat in which it would be boiled over a huge furnace, which used sugarcane husk as kindling, to produce molasses.

The process of making gur (jaggery) is a perfect circle. It is as harmonious as it is mesmerising. I remember perching on the edge and watching as a large spatula stirred the thickening golden liquid.

Someone would notice my interest and eventually pass me half a sugarcane stalk dipped in chant - thick, sticky sugarcane syrup that hardens to a brittle taffy-like texture - and a glass of sugarcane juice to gulp it down.

Eventually, the molasses would shrink in volume and begin solidifying. It would then be poured into a huge pan to cool down and scraped off to produce gur, which we would take back to the city with us and continue to enjoy for months.

My rural memories of childhood are incomplete without gur. The adults used to offer us bits of jaggery as treats. My taste buds are still nostalgic for gur waly chawal, a sumptuous sweet rice dish garnished with diced coconut and almonds.

Back then, rural food consisted mainly of sarson ka saag, makki ki roti, gur walay chawal, kheer made usinf sugarcane juice and gur wali chai.

Of sweetness and nostalgia


“…back then, rural food consisted of sarson ka saag, makki ki roti, gur walay chawal, kheer made using sugarcane juice; and gur wali chai. The Gur Mela brought all of this back. The theme for the festival was village life and the stalls displayed various varieties of gur and sold jaggery rice, jaggery tea and jaggery jalebies as well as sarson ka saag with makki ki roti”  

The Gur Mela brought all of this back. The theme for the festival was village life and many stalls were set up. The stalls displayed various varieties of gur and sold jaggery rice, jaggery tea, and jaggery jalebis as well as sarson ka saag with makki ki roti.

The event was well-organised and attended by people from all walks of life. Some of the sudents sang Punjabi songs and performed bhangra to the beat of the drum to celebrate the event.

Alina Ahmed, a student pursuing a bachelor’s degree in agriculture, said that the time was ripe to introduce the urban youth to various facets of village life. She said events like the Gur Mela provided an opportunity to do so.

“I bought jaggery and handicrafts for my family. This is the first time I have been to such an event. I feel great,” said Ahmed.

The UAF management had initially scheduled the Gur Mela for February 6. However, the students’ protest over a recent 25 percent hike in university fees had resulted in a low turnout. The Mela was organised again after the management and the students agreed on a 10 percent reduction in fees.

Muhammad Hamza, a student from the Forestry Department, said that he could not attend the Gur Mela organised earlier. He said that he was pleased to get a second chance and avail it this time.

Of sweetness and nostalgia

“We are here with our friends, dancing bhangra, singing songs and enjoying traditional village food. This has been a memorable day,” said Hamza.

Vice Chancellor Iqrar Ahmed Khan said that as a premier educational institution the University considered itself a custodian of the rural culture.

“The main objective of organising such events is to connect the youth with their heritage and promote education and research,” said the vice-chancellor.

Jaggery, called gur in Punjabi, has been used as a sweetener in traditional desserts since ancient times.


The writer has been associated with journalism for the past decade. He tweets @ naeemahmad876

Of sweetness and nostalgia