n 1998, Marilyn Manson paraphrased Andy Warhol’s 15 minutes of fame to 15 minutes of shame, and it is so telling that two of the most problematic/narcissistic artists of the 20^th century could already see how the collective consciousness was developing.

At this point, where the world sits tentatively on the brink of war, recession, climate crises, and massive political unrest, we’re all becoming a little frenetic in how we deal. Some of us deal by tightening our belts, pinching our pennies, maybe even turning to spirituality and tending to our mental health to help us cope better. Some of us deal by working harder than ever, partying harder than ever, and making sure to kick collective consciousness in the behind by opting for an ‘altered’ state of mind. Some of us don’t think there is anything to deal with, and only worry about how us as individuals, or a nation, or other binary faction are being viewed.

Enter: fashion. Quite apart from the special place fashion holds in Pakistan, what it being credited with presenting a softer image, and defiantly holding fashion showcases under the shadow of a rather aggressive organization, fashion has the strange ability to both reflect the times, and where we hope the times will take us.

Spring Couture 2023 wrapped up a couple of weeks ago, and if art reflects life, and fashion is indeed art, then the future is on fire. Literally. While some design houses chose to be almost jocular (Armani Prive), or literally served up bubblegum romance (Giambattista Valli) some went the entire other way. Collections hinted at a depression, both economic and emotional, with dropped hemlines (Fendi), or chose to stand with a struggle that hits home for every woman (Iris van Herpen’s underwater collection, alluding to the protests in Iran). 

Spring 2023 Couture wrapped up a couple of weeks ago, and if art reflects life, and fashion is indeed art, then the future is on fire. Literally. While some design houses chose to be jovial, (see: Armani Prive on pages 32-35), almost jocular, or literally served up bubblegum romance (Giambattista Valli) some went the entire other way. Collections hinted at a depression, both economic and emotional, with dropped hemlines (Fendi), or chose to stand with a struggle that hits home for every woman (Iris van Herpen’s underwater collection, alluding to the protests in Iran).

All great artists are inevitably visionary, and all visionaries can puzzle out the future a lot better than the rest of us. Spring 2023 Couture merely reminds us that we all have choices while the world spins as it must: give in to the impulse to live life as loudly as possible, or streamline ourselves to the bare minimum.

Of course, there’s a secret third option: cautious optimism. We may bring structure to our lives, in the manner that Haider Ackermann did for Jean Paul Gaultier, but we can also be slightly silly, and ready to roll with the punches, as does the Viktor & Rolf showcase for the season.

At the end of it all, like all precious resources, life too must be used carefully, but with an investment towards the things that count most.