Sirbaz first Pakistani to summit all 8000-metre peaks

KARACHI: Mountaineer Sirbaz Khan on Friday became the first Pakistani to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks. He reached the summit of Shishapangma, a 8,027-meter (26,335-foot) peak in Tibet around 1:30 pm PST, completing a journey that began seven years ago.

With this latest feat, the 36-year-old from Hunza enters an elite club of climbers who have scaled the world’s highest peaks, often referred to as “eight-thousanders.” His accomplishment places him among the most accomplished high-altitude mountaineers, a small group of around 50 people who have achieved this historic milestone.

Khan’s journey began in 2017, when he scaled Nanga Parbat, one of the world’s most dangerous mountains, standing at 8,126 meters (26,660 feet). That summit not only marked his first successful 8,000-meter climb but also set the stage for his mission to conquer all of the world’s highest peaks. Over the following years, Khan ascended some of the most difficult and perilous mountains on the planet.

In 2018, Khan reached the summit of K2, the second-highest mountain in the world at 8,611 meters (28,251 feet), without the use of supplementary oxygen. K2 is widely regarded as one of the most treacherous peaks, known for its deadly weather conditions and steep terrain. His success on K2 solidified his place among the elite mountaineers.

In May 2019, Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to scale Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain at 8,516 meters (27,940 feet), located next to Mount Everest in Nepal. Lhotse, considered extremely challenging, further tested his physical and mental endurance. Later that summer, in July 2019, he conquered Broad Peak (8,051 meters), one of Pakistan’s 8,000-meter mountains, again without using supplementary oxygen.

His ability to repeatedly summit peaks without oxygen set him apart from other climbers, as it is a dangerous and exhausting endeavour at high altitudes. His drive to push his limits continued, and in September 2019, he summited Manaslu (8,163 meters), becoming the second Pakistani to reach the top of the Nepalese peak.

The global COVID-19 pandemic did little to slow Khan down. In April 2021, he reached the summit of Annapurna (8,091 meters), known for having one of the highest fatality rates among 8,000-metre peaks. This accomplishment was deeply meaningful for Khan, as it was Pakistan’s first major expedition to Annapurna after the death of legendary mountaineer Ali Sadpara, one of Khan’s mentors.

Less than a month later, in May 2021, Khan summited Mount Everest (8,849 meters), the world’s highest peak. The success came just days after his ascent of Annapurna, further demonstrating his unmatched stamina and climbing prowess.

July 2021 saw Khan lead an all-Pakistani team to the summit of Gasherbrum II (8,035 meters). The team included notable climbers, and the expedition was seen as a national achievement for Pakistani mountaineering.

In October 2021, Khan made history again by becoming the first Pakistani to scale Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters), located in Nepal, taking his total to nine 8,000-meter peaks.

In May 2022, Khan added two more prestigious summits to his record: Kangchenjunga (8,586 meters), the world’s third-highest mountain, and Makalu (8,481 meters), both situated in Nepal. By this point, he had summited 11 of the 14 peaks without supplementary oxygen, a feat very few climbers globally can claim.

His climb to the top of Gasherbrum I in August 2022 marked his 12th summit, making him the first Pakistani to scale both Gasherbrum I and II. In October 2023, Khan reached the summit of Cho Oyu (8,188 meters), his 13th eight-thousander, just four days after entering Tibet following a long wait for climbing permits.

His ability to repeatedly reach the top of the world’s highest peaks—11 of them without supplementary oxygen—has brought pride to Pakistan and established him as a force in the international mountaineering community.

“This isn’t just my victory,” Sirbaz said in a statement after reaching the summit of Shishapangma. “It is a moment of pride for Pakistan and all the mountaineers who have supported me throughout this journey.”