hair

Girls with curly hair are seriously blessed. Curly hair is so beautiful and alluring. However, it can be difficult to style and manage curly hair on a daily basis. Unlike the straight hair types, curly hair comes with its own unique set of challenges that includes frizz, breakage and dryness.

To survive the daily challenges that naturally curly hair presents, You! exclusively talked to Komal Malik who answered your most pressing curly hair questions...

What are the different types of curly hair?

I place curly hair in 3 categories: wavy, curly and coily.

How often should curly hair be cut?

People who do use heat should get a dry trim every 2-3 months. Otherwise a haircut every 6-8 months, and a trim every 3-4 months is recommended. It really depends on the hair’s spring factor and the client’s hair goal.

How much time does one curly hair cut take as oppose to regular cuts?

Curly Hair is cut dry in its natural form so it takes twice or thrice the amount of time to cut curly hair (depends on the hair density) than it does with a wet cut. Around 1-1.5 hours.

Does curly hair need a special haircut?

Yes, curly hair has a spring factor so it should be cut dry instead of wetting it down and then cutting it. There are academies for training curly hair specialists as the cutting techniques are entirely different. I got my training from the Devacurl Academy in New York, and from Lorraine Massey in London.

How can you maintain curly hair to avoid frizz?

One should use a hydrating shampoo with botanical surfactants which won’t strip the hair of the natural oils. For curl definition and hold, one can style their hair using a leaving in conditioner, and/or curl cream, and/or mousse and/or gel depending on the person’s personal preference. Creams are soft hold products, so with the heat in Pakistan one should incorporate a gel/custard for hold along with a nice leave in conditioner/cream for definition and frizz control.

I recommend using professional brands like Kerastase, innersense, Curlsmith etc. as the formulation and the quality of ingredients in the products is super important.

Do curl-specific shampoos and conditioners act any differently to nourishing ones?

Shampoos for curly hair have botanical surfactants which don’t strip the hair of its natural oils, and the moisturising ingredients in it hydrate dry/curly/frizzy hair. Regular shampoos and conditioners can be too harsh for textured curly/wavy hair.

Do you recommend a brush or a comb?

I recommend using a wide-toothed comb to detangle the hair. A brush is a personal preference and can be used for styling the hair, or post detangling the hair with a wide-toothed comb. I don’t recommend detangling with a brush as it does cause breakage. Curly/wavy hair is only combed while it’s wet in the shower, and has conditioner in it. Dry combing/brushing is certainly not recommended.

What are the essential tools for curly hair?

A good professional shampoo, hydrating conditioner, a wide-toothed comb, a hard hold gel, a leave-in conditioner and a silk pillow case to sleep on.

What is your favourite finishing product?

I love the Kinky curly curling custard. I also love the Kerastase Curl Manifesto sublime oil for breaking the cast, and for adding shine to the hair.

What are the products and things that help keep curly hair healthy?

Don’t use dry brush, use good quality products for your hair type, don’t touch your hair while it’s drying, use hair ties without metals which are gentle on the hair, and sleep on a silk pillow case to avoid friction/breakage.

Does hair dyes ruin the texture of curly hair?

A blonder does remove protein, moisture and the hairs elasticity. However, if the stylist uses bond builders in the lightening service, and goes low and slow the integrity of the curls can certainly be maintained. I use k18, Olaplex, and metal detox in all my colour services, and aftercare products are also given to the clients for use at home.

Professional hair dyes without bleach and with low volume developers don’t ruin the hair. However, box dyes certainly do as they contain metallic salts and low quality ingredients.

Is it best to embrace your natural curls or to fight them by continuous straightening?

I believe that’s a personal choice. From my personal experience my hair wouldn’t stay straight as my curls start from the root, so embracing curly hair has been very liberating for me. I do come across women who like themselves better with straight hair and if they feel more comfortable with that then they should do whatever makes them happy. That’s what I believe in. I do try my best to encourage people to embrace what they are naturally blessed with, and learn to take care of it.

What’s your best advice for little girls with curly hair?

My advice is for moms of little girls with curly hair. Moms should learn about caring for curly hair so they can help their daughter’s embrace their curls. They will grow up loving their hair this way. More points for moms who embrace their curls as kids pick up what they see. All textures are beautiful and with the right guidance little curly girls will not grow up hating their hair, but in fact grow into confident, beautiful young women who are comfortable in their own skin.

What tips would you give to those who have curly hair?

Be gentle with your hair, it requires a bit of tender loving care. Also, a little bit of frizz is okay, and we should normalise that.

Is curly hair in fashion?

Curly hair is a hair type; it’s not a trend or something in or out of fashion.

What was your favourite hair trend of 2021?

As I work with curly/wavy hair there wasn’t any trend as such in 2021 except for the fact that a lot of people cut their hair at home during the lockdown, and they needed to see a curl specialist to fix it. Worked out great for me.

What do you love most about your job?

Making people feel beautiful, happy and confident. It’s so rewarding.

Are you working on any exciting projects in the near future?

I am currently working on expanding my business and I do plan on doing a few courses next year to add to my skill sets, that also includes perming services.

What message do you want to spread with your styling?

Breaking the misconception that curly hair is frizzy, unkempt, dry, and unprofessional. Using the right products and techniques can define, and hydrate the hair so it doesn’t look unkempt. Glossy, bouncy, hydrated curls are achievable easily in your daily wash routine. With proper care and styling, one’s hair can look absolutely stunning!

Komal’s journey

I struggled with my curly hair since childhood, and one day while browsing the internet I came across a method for curly hair, and decided to give it a shot. I had tried everything from high-end products, to chemical straightening but my hair was always a struggle, and my least favourite part of me.

After a lot of reading, I started the Curly Girl (CG) method by Lorraine Massey, and met a few wonderful women online from Pakistan with textured hair. The six of us started our journey together in 2017 and we saw the change in our hair. Finally, I found something that was working and making me fall in love with my hair, and myself all over again. That inspired me to learn more, and I went to New York to train at the DevaCurl Academy in 2018. I’m a Deva advanced stylist, with four certifications from the DevaCurl Academy; and I also had the privilege to learn from Lorraine Massey (the author of the Curly Girl Handbooks, and the woman behind the CG method). Lorraine, certified me in the curl by curl cut in London after I trained with her.

In 2019, I started a small home studio where I offered specialised curly cuts, hair consultation and styling services. My official studio opened in 2020 at Zamzama, Karachi. I am also the founder of Curl Talk Pakistan, a women-only community on Facebook that has helped countless women embrace their natural hair since its inception a few years ago.

I believe more women around the world are moving towards adopting healthy lifestyles. The Curly Girl method is also a lifestyle change. I have seen the natural hair movement around the globe, and thousands of women and men are embracing their natural hair, giving it the love and care it requires.