SEWN IN THE GARDEN OF LOVE

bridals

With the pandemic cancelling almost everything about life as we knew it, wedding fashion was the least of many of the concerns. Although, there were weddings still happening and it was still a special day for many couples tying the knot during this time. We witnessed an evolution in wedding fashion and slowly but surely designers have caught on to it.

Karachi-based designer, Zainab Chottani recently held her first solo show in the grand Jehangir Kothari Parade. According to Zainab, the collection ‘Bagh-e-Ishq’ was inspired by patterns and motifs fuelled by the long-standing fascination we find with the Ottoman Empire. “On my trip, I was really inspired by the ceilings of the palaces in Turkey. I took inspiration from Ottoman empire but keeping our heritage in mind, the collection is a combination of the Ottoman and the Mughal empire; as it belonged to the similar era. The collection features a lot of the Turkish inspired motifs, floral and geometric patterns. Whereas, the colour palette is based on our cultural grounds, which is bright, festive and mehendi colours,” shares Zainab.

The collection was an ode to indigenous Pakistani arts and crafts like the bandhani, chapa print, tie & dye, crushed fabrics and vibrant screen prints, juxtaposed with pieces that are replete with flowing paisley motifs and burnished-metallic tints that resound with the Turkish tradition of decorative illustrations. The flowing ethereal garments in hues of midnight blue, rich pinks, resplendent teals and golden mustards channelled royal splendour through floral patterns embellished with age-old crafts like zardozi, Kashmiri tanka and vibrant threadwork called resham ka kaam. This collection, with its contemporary spirit, was designed to resonate with the modern, luxury consumer in the new normal.

“During the pandemic, a lot of us found time to reflect, whether it was personally or professionally. I, too, reflected in this period and it allowed me to look at my past work. It has really helped me. With the kind of busy schedules we had, and how quickly the collections were coming out, I don’t think I would’ve ever gotten the time for it. For this collection, it took us six months to create. Since the gatherings were getting smaller, we created bridals and partywear that were apt for drawing room weddings to outdoor garden ceremonies,” describes Chottani.

A mix of eastern and contemporary silhouettes, beautiful summer friendly hues ranged from pretty to expressive, emulated the vivid colours of the central Asian landscape, with embroideries that showcased intricate details with sublime harmony. “Also, we chose to show our clothes outdoors so prospective brides and grooms could imagine themselves in a similar setting. Our designs have been rationalised so there is no lack of fantasy and clothes that are pretty yet practical without compromising on the glamour and beauty of details,” explains Zainab.

While chatting with the designer, we inquired about the shift in bridal trends and her personal preference with regards to these trends. “While we are starting to see heavier bridals again, but it’s not as loaded as they were back in 2018 and ’19. We do see an evolution in terms of how much a bride wants to spend and if it’s worth spending much for a one-day event. As designers, trends for us tend to change, but I personally love old school, typical bridals in traditional colour palettes like maroon. There was a point when I loved doing long tails but I feel like we’ve done those a lot. Now, I feel like we should be moving towards more classic and evergreen styles,” elucidates Zainab.

On a parting note, we asked Zainab to share a pro-tip for the brides-to-be dressing up for their wedding. “First and foremost, a bride should not wear something after seeing someone else wear it. I do it for all my brides and every dress we make is a one-time piece which is customised for her. Every bride is different and she should wear what suits her – the style, colour palette, cut. She should try out different outfits and customise it to her liking,” she concludes.

CREDITS

Text: Adeela Akmal

Photography: Faisal Farooqui & Team Dragonfly

Choreography: Production 021

Jewellery: Allure by MHT

Décor & Art Direction: The Social Squad

Hair & makeup: Team Nabila and N-Gents

Live music: Zia and Mujeeb (Hunza)