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Discovering America’s best kept secret

By Adeela Akmal
07 January, 2020

Travelling on my own was something that had been on my bucket list ever since I was 16 and that finally happened last year.....

travelogue

This past year for me has been the literal definition of a ‘roller coaster ride’. There were times when I found myself plummeting towards the ground and times when I was at my peak. There wasn’t a dull moment and overall I felt a sense of fulfilment with all the new experiences — good and bad, both.

A panoramic view of Pittsburgh city - and the Monongahela River - from The Point

One of the best things that happened to me this past year was travelling to the U.S. for a media training programme for female journalists. The two-week programme was not just an opportunity to hone my skills, but also a chance to explore a place that I grew up watching at the other end of the hemisphere. I was excited to discover how different the U.S. would be in person than what I’ve seen on the media.

Posing in front of the Capitol Building in -3 degrees

It was during an evening in early November when we touched down at Dulles Airport in Washington. Being a Karachiite, I was quite nervous about the weather.

I had packed layers of warm clothing. Funnily enough, stepping out, the first thing I did was take off my hoodie (I was sweating).

And with oozing overconfidence, I said, “It’s not THAT cold. I can take it.” Mother Nature seeing this as a challenge, it was -3 degrees Celsius the next day which made me take back what I said. But, thankfully, that was the coldest I experienced on my trip.


Highlights from the Capital

Home to many monuments, memorials and museums, Washington D.C. is a cosmopolitan centre that retains a neighbourly small-town ambiance. D.C. may sound dull - as it did to me before I came - but it gets interesting as you start to look around. Since we were staying in Downtown, it made it easier for us to walk around and explore.

An evening in Washington D.C.

However, our stay in the capital was for five days and had trainings 9-to-5 for three days, leaving less room to fully explore the city. However, I did manage to see the White House and the National Mall. The illuminated monuments looked more impressive after dark compared to daytime. Walking in the freezing cold was a challenge but it also gave us time to take in the sights.

To satiate my foodie instinct, I got to try an array of foods. One day we went to Union Market for lunch. It’s an artisanal food market featuring over 40 local vendors - ranging from all types of cuisines including vegetarian and halal options. I had my first ever dosa - delicious and fulfilling - and a really good looking coffee. Another place that I tried was a Mediterranean restaurant called 'Roti'. The rice bowl with steak was yum and enough to fill up two famished explorers. Other than that, I mostly took my free time to take a walk around the streets since it is a rarity in Karachi. The Christmas lights were setting up in some places which made feel the festive vibe too.

Getting to know the 'burgh!

The next phase of our programme was to work as visiting journalists at our placements. Out of nine women, the three of us were going to Pittsburgh and the rest going to Chicago and Seattle. I was told that Pittsburgh is the most underrated city in the U.S. even though it's beautiful. I realised all of this once we were on the road taking our scenic four-hour drive to the city. Throughout the journey, I saw trees drenched in fall hues of red, auburn, yellow and brown. A lake followed the path we were taking and there was snow sprinkled on some grasslands that looked like icing.

Bronze sculpture of George Washington & Seneca leader Guyasuta in Pittsburgh

Pittsburgh is a city that is vibrant and thriving. It is known as both 'Steel City' for its more than 300 steel-related businesses and as the 'City of Bridges' for its 446 bridges.

One of the many gazillion Christmas trees at Light Up Night!

It also used to be known as the 'Smoky City' because the many steel mills and other industrial businesses produced so much smoke and soot it was hard to see.

Moreover, Pittsburgh was at the centre of the 'Arsenal of Democracy' that provided steel, aluminium, munitions and machinery for the U.S. during World War II.

It wasn't until 1941 that stringent regulations on air pollution, combined with a decline in the steel industries actually made the city liveable.

To see a city like that turn into a hub of green spaces is truly commendable.

Our trip to Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens was just proof of that. Anyone who comes to the city absolutely needs to see this. As you enter the botanical garden, you are welcomed with the fragrance of the many flowers blooming in each room.

One of the rooms at the Phipps Conservatory & Botanical Gardens

The art, culture & science

Coming to the cultural aspect of the place, Pittsburgh is a city of immigrants. It is full of lively neighbourhoods that define the city. From trendy to secluded, each neighbourhood has something unique to offer. One of the most popular neighbourhoods is the Strip District. Lined with converted warehouses, the hip Strip District has an interesting mix of old-style grocers and gourmet food shops, street stands selling produce and t-shirts, plus upbeat bars, classic Italian eateries and sandwich places - where we had the infamous Primanti's Sandwich.

You'll also find graffiti artwork decorated in the city which adds to the beauty of the place. Fun fact: Heinz History Center features an eclectic collection of cultural artefacts and a sports museum. And yes, this is the Heinz of the ketchup fame, which originated here and still has its headquarters.

Kennywood Park in the Miniature Railroad & Village at the Carnegie Science Center

While shadowing my mentor, Lauren, I had the opportunity to explore the art and cultural history that the city holds. My visit to the Carnegie Science Center was similar to a child being let loose in a wonderland. It is the best museum for hands-on exploration, with science shows, exhibits that delight, educate, and inspire. Whether you are a science nerd or just a visitor, it makes for an interesting experience for everyone. While I was marvelling at the miniature railroad - which is a hundred years old with impeccable details - there was a robotic arm shooting hoops just across the room. There is also a submarine right outside which was actually used during World War II.

Hall of Architecture at the Carnegie Museum

My next stop for that day was the Andy Warhol Museum, the largest museum dedicated to a single artist. Born in Pittsburgh, Andy Warhol was a successful magazine and ad illustrator who became a leading artist of the 1960s Pop art movements. The Warhol has seven floors and each floor is dedicated a particular part of his life. My favourite room was the Silver Clouds installation where, 'clouds' are floating about.

Pittsburgh is famous for its dinosaur bones!

And, one of the rooms has an age-old camera installed where you can do a screen test - the recorded video is emailed to you. Lauren and I ended up interviewing each other during the screen test, which was really fun!

Carnegie Museum of Art, Architecture and Natural History is an incredible place to visit if you have an appreciation for art. Its collection survives today as the largest architectural cast collection in the country, rivalled internationally only by collections in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, and in in the Musée National des Monuments Français, Paris. The Hall of Architecture, with its collection of over 140 plaster casts of architectural masterpieces from the past is mesmerising.

All the museums I visited were incredible in their own realm, but somehow I found myself incredibly drawn to the Cathedral of Learning. The gothic structure - built in 1926 - has 42 floors and serves as the centrepiece of the University of Pittsburgh's main campus in the Oakland neighbourhood.

The Cathedral of Learning

While the architecture is majestic, what really intrigued me was the Nationality Rooms — rooms that represent a country’s culture through its interior. The Cathedral is home to 30 Nationality Rooms located on the first and third floors: 28 working classrooms and two rooms used mostly for display or occasional special events.

Unleashing the foodie in Pittsburgh

The highlights of my food adventure included Salem’s andMexican food. Salem's Market and Grill is Pittsburgh's destination for halal foods and Middle Eastern fare. But, whether you eat halal or not, you’ll notice a diverse environment - people from all cultures seated and enjoying an incredible meal. I stocked up food from the place every chance I got.

For the Mexican cuisine, the Avodila from Mad Mex still makes me salivate when I think about it. Also, for a lunch at Condado, I ordered two different tacos - a soft shell and a crispy shell - along with nachos. It was healthy (minus the cheese) and absolutely delicious.

While searching for halal food in D.C. was easy, it wasn't as readily available here, except for a few shops. So, opting for vegetarian was a convenient option.

With the team of Pittsburgh Magazine

Crossing another one off my bucket list

Travelling on my own was something that had been on my bucket list ever since I was 16 and that finally happened last year. There was a profound lesson I learnt on my trip that no matter how wonderful a place is the people make it special. From my colleagues at Pittsburgh Magazine to the lovely hosts and random people I came across, it was heartening to see how kind and accommodating everyone was. Pittsburgh welcomed me wholeheartedly and lived up to its title of 'America's best-kept secret'... and it's out now.

Pictures taken by the author.