Lucknow, the largest city of Uttar Pradesh, India, has always been known as a multicultural city.
book launch
Lucknow, the largest city of Uttar Pradesh, India, has always been known as a multicultural city. It flourished as a North Indian artistic hub and the seat of power of Nawabs in the 18th and 19th centuries. But do you know what sets the land of culture, tourism, music and poetry apart? Well, Lucknow is known for its language and the kind of clothing and embellishments women have adorned right from the beginning. And ‘Chikankari’ is one such popular embroidery that has its charm till date.
Chikankari is a 400-year-old art, practised only in Lucknow today. It constitutes ‘shadow work’ and is a very delicate and artistic hand embroidery done using white thread on fine white cotton cloth such as fine muslin or chiffon. Yellowish muga silk is sometimes used in addition to the white thread. The work is done on caps, kurtas, saris, scarves, and other vestments. The chikan industry has not only survived but is still flourishing. About 2,500 entrepreneurs are engaged in manufacturing chikan for sale in local, national and international markets with Lucknow being the largest exporter of chikan embroidered garments.
Wondering what we are talking about? Well, recently a book, dedicated to the incredible style of embroidery, Chikankari, was launched in Koel Art Gallery, Karachi. The book has been written by Paola Manfredi, who was born in Italy and has lived and worked in India for over thirty years. With a background in ethnology, she is passionate about textiles and deeply interested in the history of textile exchanges between East and West. Combining scholarly learning with approachability, she has worked with communities to promote the excellence of South Asian craftsmanship, particularly in Aary, Chikankari from Lucknow, and Nakshi Kantha from East Bengal (today Bangladesh). Manfredi is associated with a number of international organizations involved with textiles, crafts development and conservation. Her work has been shown in exclusive exhibitions in India and abroad.
The book talks about the history and cultural relevance of Chikankari. Moreover, the book focuses on the work that appeared in Lucknow in the late 18th century and its exquisite aesthetic and craftsmanship. Chikankari is not just embroidery. In fact, it is a creative blend of delicate work and impeccable dressmaking and sewing techniques - which come together to create art that is legendary for its elegance and finesse.
This beautifully illustrated book showcases unknown gems from personal and public collections, and brings to life the history of this unique craft. Various chapters describe the mysterious origins of the embroidery, the range of costumes, the inspirations behind common Chikankari motifs, the time-honoured elaborate production process, and the bewildering array of stitches that raised this craft to its status as a truly exceptional form of art.
Now coming back to the launch event! It was a well attended one, where a number of socialites, designers and media persons were spotted. At the event, Manfredi gave a detailed intro about her book, followed by a question and answer session.
All in all, the launch was a success. It not only managed to pique the audience’s interest but also revealed the history behind this amazing art.
— Iqra Sarfaraz
