Snaking through Balochistan’s Coastal Belt

travelogue

Pakistan’s coastline offers interesting topographic features that make the entire, approximately a thousand kilometres long coastline, extraordinarily distinctive. About three-fourths of the coastline borders Balochistan - the largest province of Pakistan by area, and one-fourth constitutes Sindh coast. Both the coastal belts are unique, offering characteristic terrain and contours. The Sindh coastline mostly features Indus River delta and the archipelago of richly mangrove-covered islands while Balochistan coastline is primarily rugged and mountainous studded with capes, coves and lagoons like gems in a necklace. The most prominent and eye-catching projections into the sea are the hammerheads of Ormara and Gwadar appearing like twin structures purposely built by humans. Then there are resembling lagoons of Miani Hor and Buzi that add more color to the coastline.

Balochistan is close to nature, thanks to its sparse population. The land remains unutilised, the terrain unaltered and the nature and its resources still quite intact. The southern part of the province is a real wonderland with its chaste coastline, dotted with Gadani, Somiani, Kund Malir, Ormara, Pasni, Gwadar, Pishukan and Jiwani, being the last settlement before Iran’s border.

Lack of paved surfaces did not allow access of the common man to most of the above places. One could only reach there after an arduous off-roading till the construction of Makran Coastal Highway which was inaugurated in 2004. The highway is a marvel on its own. It originates from the RCD Highway after the town of Winder and dives south towards the coast, surrounding the Miani Hor lagoon in Somiani region. Having made the loop, it runs parallel to the coastline till Iranian border. The highway has given a new lease of life to the communities living along Balochistan coast.

Winder is the first sign of urbanisation after the industrial city of Hub which is next to Karachi. One must break journey at Winder to have meals and relieve oneself. For those who are not confident about their continence, diapers are the best option since there is hardly any restroom facility available on the way. After Winder, you keep slipping through the mountainous wilderness with the Hingol National Park running endlessly along. The park is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna including marine creatures. Like Karachi’s Turtle Beach near Sandspit, Green or Marine Turtles visit Hingol National Park and Ormara to lay eggs.

After a two-hour drive you reach Kund Malir. The pristine beach has lately become popular with the picnickers which has led to unplanned growth of concretised structures. Up to Kund Malir your drive is mostly smooth and steady as the highway traverses planes, barren valleys with hills running along. But immediately after Kund Malir, the road ascends into the hills, ramping you up towards the Buzi Top (not to be confused with Buzi Makola which is far ahead). Before reaching the Buzi Top, you are greeted by a royal figure known as the Princess of Hope. The name was supposedly given by the Hollywood star Angelina Jolie when she was in the vicinity for shooting of a movie. Indeed, this naturally carved rock looks much like a royal lady-in-waiting, having donned a flowing bridal dress. Not far from the Princess of Hope, there is another interesting natural sculpture resembling the Sphinx of Egypt. A few kilometers before these monuments, you come across the famous Hingol River. To see water gushing under the bridge, you would need a bit of luck.

Another interesting and unique spot to stop over while you are on the way to Ormara is the site of Mud volcanos, all named Chadragups. One has to walk some distance before climbing the over 1000-feet tall hill. The region is believed to have scores of volcanos. More often than not, people get to see mud oozing out of the vent particularly from the Chandragup-I. Many people are interested in visiting the Hinglaj Mata Mandir also called Nani Mandir, a cave temple located inside Hingol National Park.

From the Buzi Top, you get scintillating views of turquoise blue waters and pristine beaches giving you an otherworldly feeling. Moving forward on the hilly terrain you also discover the low-lying range of mud hills sculpted by nature. The tubular surface is perhaps caused by the rainwater flashing down the hills. And from the topmost point of the Buzi Top, you get panoramic views of the concavity of the craggy basin which seems to have dipped down from the level you are standing.

After the Buzi Top, you drive through a vast stretch of planes and reach the captivating beach of Ormara. The place is halfway down the Makran Coastal Highway. It takes about seven hours to reach Ormara depending on how much time you take to have brunch at Winder. Ormara’s enormous seafront is semicircular in shape and is bounded by the hammerhead rock from the eastern side. Two privately owned, decent beach resort complexes at Ormara have made it possible for the picnickers to visit the place with friends and family. It is advisable that you engage one of the several tour operators who take groups to Ormara and can offer you added features such as camping on the beach at night.

You have to stay overnight at Ormara which allows you to enjoy the mesmerising sunset as well as the magenta sunrise next morning. To visit other places along the Makran Coastal Highway such as mud volcanos, Hingol National Park or Nani Mandir, you have to leave Ormara early and explore them on your way back.

A regret that all the family members held was not going up to Gwadar and Jiwani to absorb more splendours of the Balochistan Coastal Belt. Never mind. Zinda hai agar yar tou sohbat baqi.

Mirza Mohammad Nayyar is a freelance author who writes on various subjects such as travel, arts, wildlife, environment etc. He can be reached at mirzamnayyar@yahoo.com