AHAs vs BHAs

HEALTHWISE

Throughout your skincare journey, you may have heard that you should be using alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). You may even be incorporating these ingredients into your routine already. Whether you’re an AHA/BHA newbie or a seasoned expert, read on to know what these ingredients are and how to make sure you’re using them safely and effectively.

AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from sugarcane, sour milk, and sugary fruits. Types of AHAs used in skincare include glycolic acid (most common), lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and mandelic acid.

BHAs, on the other hand, are oil-soluble that can be found in plants like willow bark, sweet birch, and wintergreen oil. Types of BHAs include salicylic acid and citric acid.

Our skin naturally sheds the dead layer, but over time, the process slows and dead skin cells aren’t as quick to shed. This makes skin appear dry, flaky, dull, and more mature. Enter AHAs, which act as unbinding agents to unglue dead skin cells from the surface. BHAs also exfoliate the top layer of skin to reveal smoother, more radiant skin, but they’re also able to work on a deeper level of skin, making them suitable to alleviate acne, roughness, and signs of aging.

You’ll achieve the same general fresh-faced effect whether you choose an AHA or BHA to incorporate within your skincare routine. Based on your skin type and your goals, you may want to choose one type of acid over another.

AHAs (ideal for people with normal to dry skin):

• Provide a moisturizing effect to the skin
• Improve photoaging markers from sun damage
• Treat hyperpigmentation and melasma
• Promotes the skin’s collagen production

BHAs (ideal for people with oily, combination or acne-prone skin):

• Treat oily skin problems like blackheads and whiteheads
• Possess anti-inflammatory properties
• Have anti-microbial properties

You can absolutely choose to use a combination of AHAs and BHAs in your skincare routine, should you wish to reap the benefits of both acids.

There are a few things to consider as you’re searching for the right AHA and/or BHA product for your skin type and goals:

• Acid type – The smaller the molecule is, the better it is able to penetrate into the skin’s surface layer. Glycolic acid, for instance, is the smallest molecule of the skincare AHAs, so it’s able to get deeper into the top layer than the other types, making it such a skincare staple for exfoliators.
• Concentration amount – AHAs and BHAs should be formulated at specific concentrations for at-home use — and for AHAs, pH levels need to be balanced as well to help avoid irritation and skin damage.
• Formulation – Sometimes, particularly within especially dry weather or environments, humectants can attract too much moisture and cause more dryness. Look for formulations that include occlusive ingredients that create a protective lipid seal over the skin and prevent the loss of moisture.

Also, with both AHAs and BHAs, there are certain precautions to consider:

• Sun sensitivity – Be sure to wear sunscreen when using these surface-level exfoliators. Many studies, have confirmed that AHA application can lead to increased UV sensitivity.
• Mixing too many strong acids – While you can combine AHAs and BHAs within your routine, it is recommended to avoid using them on the same day as it can cause over-exfoliation and irritation.
• Keep in mind that studies that affirm mixing other ingredients with AHAs or BHAs (for e.g. Glycolic acid and retinols, Glycolic acid and vitamin C and Salicylic acid and vitamin A) are conducted in a clinical setting rather than at-home use. For safe use at home, it is recommended to slowly introduce ingredient pairings, alternating treatment days and times and keeping an eye out for any irritation, stopping use if you spot any.

Compiled by HH