Qurat-ul-Ain Ansari is founder and CEO of Chapter 13. Having studied International Business and Management...
COVER STORY
Qurat-ul-Ain Ansari is founder and CEO of Chapter 13. Having studied International Business and Management from University of Manchester, Qurat-ul-Ain started her business in 2013 along with her sister, Sadia Ansari, who is a graduate in Leather Accessories and Footwear Design from Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD) and the Head Shoe Designer at Chapter 13. Qurat-ul-Ain has won accolades including Best Entrepreneur Runner Up 2016 (British Council); she was among Top 25 Lahore Start up Cup (TiE Islamabad and USA Embassy) and Top 12 Lahore Start up Cup (TiE Islamabad and USA Embassy), and had successfully completed the World Bank Women Entrepreneur Training held at GCU under the name of Women X.
What sparked your interest in shoe designing?
Having grown up in a family of shoe manufacturers, we have this passion for shoes. We used to see them getting designed, produced and talked about at my father’s workshop and at our home since our childhood. Being the eldest, I wanted to take my family business to a higher level in my own way.
I was also tired of the saturation of China and Thailand imported shoes sold at lower prices because of their poor quality. Our local talented craftsmen were being noticed and their skills utilized only in the clothing industry. The handwork was not a part of shoe industry and that was a major concern for me.
So I decided to introduce a high-end line of locally manufactured shoes and bags embedding the intricate work of our local craftsmen and artisans. It was named Chapter 13, as it started in December 2013. Also, we are 13 cousins; hence, the digit 13.
Who inspires you the most in fashion industry?
In footwear fashion industry, Sophia Webster inspires us the most; I love the way she plays with colours and embellishment.
What does success mean to you?
Success to me is something that should make me happy, proud and content at the same time. It is also when my parents can proudly introduce themselves as my parents.
What is the one thing you look for in your workspace?
I want my workspace to be organized. Everything should be in place so that it can be found without wasting a minute at work.
Which of your traits are you most proud of?
I am persistent and hardworking. You might fail if you are intelligent, but if you are hard-working, you will achieve what you want. The brain is of no use if it is not put to work.
In moments of self-doubt or adversity, how do you build yourself back up?
Ups and downs are a part of the work. I look back at time that I have dedicated to reach here, and it keeps me going.
What is your greatest fear, and how do you manage it?
My greatest fear is not being able to live up to my parents’ expectations. Through hard work and persistence, I am always able to overcome my fears. Nothing comes easy; you just have to keep working hard.
What’s non-negotiable for you?
Honesty! I hate when people lie in business and back out of a deal just to earn few more bucks.
How do you balance creativity with business?
I started this business with the aim of earning a name, not money; a brand name that can speak for Pakistan in terms of quality and design. This may sound absurd but I am still working on it for the last four years. I think we still lack in terms of business. People take time to accept new trends. For example, we introduced the concept of ladies peshawari chappal for the first time in June 2014. It became a massive hit around mid-2015 and now you see it being made by every brand. Now we see females flaunting our kohatis and peshwaris confidently. Hand embroidered loafers and plain khussas are being liked by the customers. For Chapter 13, it is definitely creativity over business.
Do you have a specific research process when you start a new collection?
Chapter 13 is a theme-based shoe collection brand. Our first theme was Reviving Truck Art. Deciding a theme gives us direction. Sadia is quite creative with her designing. She is the one who brainstorms new designs and keeps us up-to-date with all the latest trends in the market. Once the theme is decided, we start the research together and search market for the material and resources. We try to introduce two to three ranges every year. The latest collection is Aquatic Treasures. As the name suggests, it has a playful spirit and contemporary elegance. Mother Nature has so much to offer other than just pretty flowers. You can see the fins inspired kolapuris and sea horse sitting on a peshawari.
What is your favourite collection?
My favorite creation is Patt Jhar that’s a blue velvet khussa adorned with metallic leaves, threads and pearls. I wanted to keep it colourful without giving it a mixed meethae touch; plus, to incorporate metallic details but not using it directly in form of buckle. I am overwhelmed to see that people love it as much I loved designing it.
How is your work received internationally?
Chapter 13 shoes are widely appreciated abroad. We get orders from India, USA, Australia, Qatar, UK and UAE. We recently joined hands with polly & other stories and they offer worldwide deliveries. Daraz.pk has been delivering internationally for us.
Have you ever turned down a client?
I hate turning down clients and try my best to adjust their orders. If there is any design that cannot be created in our workshop then we apologize for it.
Any funny client experience?
Once a customer ordered three shoes online and out of those, one shoe was swapped with another order. The customer liked that wrongly sent shoe so much that she kept it and became our regular and the most loyal customer. Till now she has over 20 plus shoes from Chapter 13.
What has been your most satisfying moment in business?
The most satisfying moment in business is when the business reached a break even in few months, Alhamdulilah.
What is the biggest lesson you have learned since you started Chapter 13?
Once you are into business, you have to do it by hook or by crook. Unlike the 9-5 job, you are the boss here, the one solely responsible to take the business through all the stages of struggle. But, to be honest, I have started enjoying it. I know all the hard work I am putting in is eventually going to benefit me and my country. Being the lady boss is actually fun. When I returned from UK, my financer was confused about investing in my business. Not that they doubted my capabilities or intelligence; it was purely based on gender. It is only because my father trusted me that I have managed to come this far. They say there is a woman behind every successful man; I would like to add to this by saying that there is a strong and open-minded man behind a successful woman.
Moreover, you have to face many obstacles if you are a trendsetter in the industry. I was extremely disappointed to see a big shoe brand copying our designs and selling them in the mass market. Being a small brand in Pakistan, we couldn’t do anything about it. Despite this, we kept going, as hard work always pays off.
When are we going to see Chapter 13 men’s collection?
We are still exploring the women range. Men’s line would obviously need extensive research and a total new setup of workers and material. InshaAllah, it is on our plan.
If you had the chance to start your career over again, what would you do differently?
I would plan logically and budget more sensibly. I would like to have an independent head office, separate from my father, too.
Any advice for young designers?
You have to fight your own war. Stand up for your dream. Only hard work, dedication and consistency can take you to your goal in a short period of time. Yes, you have to trust God at every stage.
