Torwal: in the heart of Hindu Kush

COVER STORY

In the heart of the Hindu Kush, surrounded by towering peaks, alpine meadows, pastures, cascading waterfalls, rugged icy glaciers, and the fast-flowing Swat River along with its tributaries, live the Torwalis - one of Pakistan's last indigenous and marginalized communities. The Torwali people are spread across the picturesque Tirat and Piya Valleys near Tehsil Fatehpur to the magnificent valleys of Asrit and Pushmal near the renowned Kalam Valley. The Swat River acts as a lifeline, connecting the Torwali towns and villages along its banks. The name 'Torwali' originates from the village of Torwal, situated about a half-hour’s drive from Bahrain Town, the largest and most populous settlement of the Torwalis.

The Torwalis possess a unique and intricate language paired with a rich cultural heritage. Historically, they have only been briefly mentioned by travelers who passed through Torwal—a collective term for all Torwali towns and villages—who documented their encounters with this resilient indigenous community. The language of the Torwalis, part of the Indo-European language family, has deep roots, tracing back to the ancient ancestral homelands shared by other languages in the family, located between the Caucasus and the Caspian Sea.

The Torwali language and culture share close ties with the renowned Kalash tribe of Chitral. As a member of the Dardic language family, Torwali is spoken in Chitral, Kashmir, parts of Afghanistan bordering Pakistan, and Ladakh. Until recent years, the Torwali language lacked a formal written system, including an alphabet. However, local scholars such as Zubair Torwali, Inam Torwali, and others have worked to develop a written form for the language, creating an alphabet and producing literature in Torwali. These efforts have been vital in preserving the language, which is classified as endangered and at risk of disappearing.

Generations of rich cultural history, filled with both challenges and triumphs, have ingrained resilience in the Torwalis, making their identity as enduring as the mountains they call home. The Torwalis don't merely inhabit a few towns in the Bishigram and Bahrain valleys; through their resilience and warmth, they have transformed the surrounding peaks and meadows into habitable spaces. They have carved treacherous and rugged paths winding up the majestic mountains, some of which are perilous to the point of being death routes.

The awe-inspiring alpine peaks of the Hindu Kush witness the enduring mountain rituals of the Torwalis. In these elevated, snow-capped regions, where the peaks seem to whisper secrets, the Torwalis uphold unique traditions, including 'Hashar,' a communal practice where villagers unite to handle tasks like grass cutting and seasonal migration, supporting one another’s families. Another notable custom involves soaking pieces of Roti in soup to make them softer and more enjoyable during weddings.

The major Torwali towns have roads and access routes, while the more remote villages lack such infrastructure. Some Torwali people live at extremely high altitudes, which can take six to eight hours to reach on rugged, mountainous paths. During winter, they relocate to the towns, but in summer, they migrate with their cattle to the pastures and meadows, staying there until winter returns. Even at the height of summer, these high-altitude areas experience sub-zero temperatures. In winter, the entire Torwali region is blanketed in snow, with the higher mountains receiving heavy snowfall that lingers year-round.

Although educational institutions are far fewer compared to other regions, the Torwalis remain deeply committed to educating their children, often sending them to distant areas to pursue their studies. Primary schools are situated in such remote locations that teachers sometimes travel five to six hours on foot each day, as roads and vehicles are unavailable. In all of Torwal, there are only two higher secondary schools. The nearest degree-level college is located outside the region, requiring Torwali students to travel up to six hours daily to attend classes.

A typical day in a remote Torwali village feels like a glimpse of paradise. The villagers wake up at dawn, fetch water from the streams, and then head off to work in their fields and gardens. They rely on a natural diet, cultivating their own food with care and dedication. By dusk, they return home with fresh vegetables and fruits, often singing folk songs and sharing stories along the way. They turn in early, only to rise at dawn once more. These individuals, who carry on their cherished traditions, seem to live days that feel longer than ours.

Torwal boasts stunning natural beauty, featuring several renowned travel destinations such as Bishigram Valley and Lake, Planchai and Jabba Meadows in Bahrain, Bahrain Town, Gornal Village, Mankiyal Valley, Chukail Meadows, and Tape Meadow, along with many other breathtaking spots. This rich natural landscape significantly contributes to the local economy, which relies heavily on tourism. Visitor numbers peak during the high season but tend to dwindle in the off-season.

With fewer than 150,000 native speakers, the Torwali language and culture are rapidly fading due to several factors, including the dominance of major languages and cultures, as well as the migration of locals to larger cities in search of better opportunities. Emerging trends and an influx of tourists overshadow traditional practices, leading to the gradual erosion of the valuable and rich Torwali heritage. Once a vibrant culture, the Torwali way of life is now largely confined to the remote high mountains, where new trends and visitors only arrive intermittently.

Another significant challenge for the Torwalis is the recurring flash floods that occur during the monsoon season, worsened by climate change. In the catastrophic floods of 2022, Torwal was the hardest-hit area in the Swat District. Each year, the Swat River and its tributaries overflow, destroying infrastructure, businesses, and hotels, which severely impacts the local economy. There is an urgent need for a comprehensive policy to address flash floods to protect both the economy and the region's infrastructure.

Currently, the Pakhtunkhwa Energy Development Organization (PEDO) plans to divert the majestic Swat River, the lifeline of the Torwalis, into tunnels beneath the mountains for energy projects. This diversion could reduce the river’s flow for up to eight months during the winter, leaving the riverbed dry and resulting in no visible flow. Such a change would have a devastating impact on the Torwali community, as the river represents their natural heritage. The tourism industry would likely collapse, and the river’s marine life would suffer, further damaging the already fragile environment. It is crucial to engage locals in the development process, as they continue to protest against these environmentally harmful projects. These actions could drive another nail into the coffin of Torwal's unique culture and language, both of which are already at risk of disappearing.

A Torwali folk zo (ghazal), خوشے بیابان translated into English by Torwali student Shams-Ud-Din Torwali and published in We Mountains magazine, eloquently

captures the essence of Torwali

culture. Here are some extracts from this extensive ghazal:

Somewhere in a remote wilderness

we would discover a hermitage

With your crimson lips

you would whisper sweetnesses

I would gather splinters

you would kindle the fire

My hands would go numb

you would wipe my fingers

This moment could freeze

I would wish silently

Oh, my adored one, with your gaze

I would forget both realms