Day three at fashion week began and ended on high notes, with several other saving graces in an overall long day that dragged itself through endless arrays of mundane wedding ensembles
Karachi: The final day of fashion week was high on energy, not because of the designers on the lineup, but because of the celebrity sightings that people were anticipating. There were murmurs of Mawra Hocane walking with Fahad Mustafa for Zainab Chottani; the fact that Faryal Mehmood opened for the same designer was a small bonus. Feroze Khan and Hania Aamir, appearing onscreen as a couple for upcoming drama serial Bezubaan, walked for Sadaf Fawad Khan while Fawad Khan – the country’s biggest superstar who is anticipated to be back on screens next year – sat in her front row next to Asim Azhar. Shaniera Akram made a high octane appearance for Saba Asad while Wasim Akram walked for Shiza Hassan. Several other starlets walked for almost all designers, some recognizable and others being just as underwhelming as the collections they were promoting.
It threw light on one very important question: should the success of a collection need to fall on the shoulders of a celebrity? We already know the answer to that: no. Celebrities belong in front rows not on runways, which need to be a stage for designs and supermodels that wear them with sass. This is another discussion, for another day.
Other than provide ‘fashion non-specific entertainment’ to the audience, what celebrities also ascertain is delays. And a show that suffers endless delays and post-midnight finales cannot be put down as professionally handled. These are issues that one has been pointing out for a decade, ad nauseum, and one hopes will be heard one day.
Over to the showcases…
Zainab Chottani
Khwahish
This was indisputably Zainab Chottani’s strongest collection to date. Khwahish opened with whites and smartly transitioned through lovely ivories to colours before ending on darker shades of olive and black. Visually, the collection unrolled with expertise and grace, offering clothes that would work in Pakistan as well as weddings anywhere in the world. We know that Zainab has a huge international clientele and it was evident that this collection would be popular anywhere in the world. The few outfits featuring vivid turquoise combined with luxe black velvet were the most eye catching, more for the fact that they worked as separates too. This was definitely a strong start to the day.
Huma Adnan
Darwaish
By now Huma Adnan has developed a signature, which may not be everyone’s cup of tea but does give affordable solutions to women who choose to be maximalist in their dressing. Embroidery and embellishment on print and lots of drama is tucked into her creations, which are unapologetically busy and yet have some semblance of method to the madness. Huma accessorized her wedding wear with equally bright and over the top pieces from The Craft Stories, handcrafted jewelry created by refugees in Karachi as part of a UNHCR initiative; it was fashion with a purpose but would have worked more effectively had the accessories been paired with slightly simpler clothes to allow them a moment of their own.
Nauman Arfeen
Uraan
There’s no disputing Nauman Arfeen’s expertise when it comes to construction of traditional menswear. He has finesse and stability and knows his fabric and textiles and shapes and silhouettes. There was a display of dexterity in this collection too; the ensembles moved from straight and streamlined to voluminous, offering men with all tastes something appealing. One isn’t a fan of Nauman Arfeen’s women’s wear, which is an unnecessary condiment to an otherwise wholesome collection. One also feels the darker, coordinated palette took away from the light and liberating feel of the initial pieces. Similarly, the accessories – nose rings to be exact – could have been explained in press notes if they had some specific significance.
Sadaf Fawad Khan
Adam & Eve
Sending out her models in pairs, Sadaf Fawad Khan – in her debut show at FPW – put out her vision for wedding wear. Emphasizing the need for coordinated ensembles for that picture perfect visual, there was aesthetic thought as well as balance in the way the designer had put the outfits together; they complemented each other as opposed to being the male/female version of the same palette. The collection bounced off a vibrant, jewel toned canvas and allowed breathing space in the embellishment, which was refreshing to see. Sadaf also introduced a new variation in the traditional jacket, a prince coat to be exact, though one wasn’t entirely convinced that this improvisation worked.
Deepak Perwani
Shalimar
Deepak Perwani’s Shalimar, that fell on the eve of Diwali, was a strong closing for fashion week. The predominantly pink collection, spinning tales of Mughal fantasy from pink diamonds and jewels from the royal ateliers, was rich and tasteful. Colourful and yet calm, this was serene wedding wear, which allowed a sense of opulence associated with the Mughals and yet restrained from going overboard. Designs for men and women came in complementing pairs but also stood well independently. And instead of presenting options for the entire wedding band, baaja and baaraat, this appeared to be intended purely for brides – on all their special days – or women who wanted to stand out just as much.
–All photography by Faisal Farooqui @ Dragonfly
